Which camshaft?

[Fast Farmer]

What cam do you guys like? Planning a rebuild and would like to upgrade. I do not have roller cam money in the budget, so please recommend flat tappet cams only. I may also port and polish the heads and intake at the same time, so y'all can take that into consideration. Thanks fellas

 

[N.W. Buick]

Depending the level of performance you're after - the 200/200 from Lunati is a nice upgrade up from stock, the 206/206 from Weber Racing got Red Armstrong deep in the 10's or there's the 212/212 from comp. Before I made the jump to the 212 billet roller from Weber for my new engine - I had planned to use the 212/212 flat tappet for my build. Even had it sent out and graphite coated.

Just my 2-cents pennies worth.

Mike

 

[Jerryl]

With the TE44 in your sig and P&P heads, 204/214 or 206/206. Err on the small side.

 

[we4Mateo]

Stock cam will get you into the 11's. I run an Erson 208/208 flat and like it a lot. I don't spin my car past 5k rpm and Bison stated it was overkill for not spinning it up more, but I installed it straight up and down and it seems to be working well. Times in sig. The Erson's have slow ramps too, so not a lot of spring needed and with ZDDP, I have had no wear issues yet; 10k+ miles on it already too. You can get one from T/A.

 

[charlief1]

You also have the tried and true 204/214 cam. Pretty decent cam for the money as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200312032571?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 

[Fast Farmer]

Do you guys think the 212-212 Comp is a little big for my turbo with ported and polished heads? I thought it might work well to extend the rpm range a little, and hopefully it won't move peak torque up the rpm scale too much. I know these turbo motors are different, but a cam that size in a small block is a stock cam or smaller. It should idle dead slick. Anybody that has one of these please comment on its characterisics.

 

[charlief1]

You have to remember that the stock cam in these cars is small and the turbo doesn't really require a big cam to make a lot of power. The 204/214 cam has a .448/.472 lift and more duration than the stock cam so it should wake it up and let it rev to about 5500-5700 without any issues.

 

[hiboom]

I pulled the 212/212 out of my engine after about 1200 miles and put the 204/214 in I like it a lot better the 212 never acted like Icould ultilize the extra rpm I had the 980 springs don't know if the coils were binding. with the 204 cam I shift at 5300 and the car is a lot happier then at 5600 with the 212 I run thete44 turbo also

 

[FLGN]

You also have the tried and true 204/214 cam. Pretty decent cam for the money as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200312032571?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

That seems like a great price in that link that was posted. It that a reputable vendor and a proven cam and lifters?? Who makes it?

 

[charlief1]

That cam is made by 1 manufacturer and is sold by quite a few sources. He's got a 99.8% good feedback and has been on evilbay for a long time now so I'm sure you'll get a good cam. The brand is Melling so it should be a good one.

 

[turbofabricator]

I personally liked the Erson cams because they had a "soft" ramp and seemed to last longer than most. Alot of guys also run the Edelbrock cam, too. I do not install flat tappet cams in a Buick any longer. They ALL would go flat. I even tried notching lifter bores to help. Break in is CRITICAL with a flat tappet cam. Use ONLY good racing oil everytime you change it. Never use standard oil. It must have ZDDP or it'll go flat in a New York second. Brad Penn oil is just one of many good oils. I have also run the Comp 208/208 with good success, too. A TE-44 will get you into the deep 11's properly tuned, especially with ported irons. But remember, I use to have cam cores stacked up in a corner of the shop like cord wood. Might want to save up your pennies and buy a roller cam. The stock cam is fine for low eleven passes.

 

[Fast Farmer]

I personally liked the Erson cams because they had a "soft" ramp and seemed to last longer than most. Alot of guys also run the Edelbrock cam, too. I do not install flat tappet cams in a Buick any longer. They ALL would go flat. I even tried notching lifter bores to help. Break in is CRITICAL with a flat tappet cam. Use ONLY good racing oil everytime you change it. Never use standard oil. It must have ZDDP or it'll go flat in a New York second. Brad Penn oil is just one of many good oils. I have also run the Comp 208/208 with good success, too. A TE-44 will get you into the deep 11's properly tuned, especially with ported irons. But remember, I use to have cam cores stacked up in a corner of the shop like cord wood. Might want to save up your pennies and buy a roller cam. The stock cam is fine for low eleven passes.

Thanks Ken, you aren't the first person to tell me to go to the roller. Dang its a lot of money, though. Maybe that is what I'll do. Still runs great, so I have got time to save.

 

[we4Mateo]

I personally liked the Erson cams because they had a "soft" ramp and seemed to last longer than most. Alot of guys also run the Edelbrock cam, too. I do not install flat tappet cams in a Buick any longer. They ALL would go flat. I even tried notching lifter bores to help. Break in is CRITICAL with a flat tappet cam. Use ONLY good racing oil everytime you change it. Never use standard oil. It must have ZDDP or it'll go flat in a New York second. Brad Penn oil is just one of many good oils. I have also run the Comp 208/208 with good success, too. A TE-44 will get you into the deep 11's properly tuned, especially with ported irons. But remember, I use to have cam cores stacked up in a corner of the shop like cord wood. Might want to save up your pennies and buy a roller cam. The stock cam is fine for low eleven passes.

They all go flat even with 75lb springs? I thought that the #3 exhaust lobe was reverse tapered now too eliminating the non-rotation lifter issue. I use ZDDP and the setup previously mentioned and I think it'll go a really long time this way. Time will tell but I drive quite a bit every year.

 

[Fast Farmer]

Does it help to use something like Shell Rotella along with ZDDP for these flat tappet cams. I have a bunch of farm tractors that run straight Rotella, and have never had a wear problem. Btw, its what I use in the Buick also. 15W40. I know that it has some zinc and phosphorous in it already, but is it enough?

 

[Mr.Spool]

if your going to do the cam go roller and dont go to big if your going to keep the 44.i run a 212/212 and its not the right match for the 44.

 

[~JM~]

Does it help to use something like Shell Rotella along with ZDDP for these flat tappet cams. I have a bunch of farm tractors that run straight Rotella, and have never had a wear problem. Btw, its what I use in the Buick also. 15W40. I know that it has some zinc and phosphorous in it already, but is it enough?

Last I read on "Bob is the oil guy" web-site. The Rotella oil & Delo 400 oil still have sufficiant zinc content to protect the lifters. Granted I should probably read through the site again for any updates. I've been using Delo 400 in all my flat tappet applications for the last couple of years.

~JM~

 

[we4Mateo]

Does it help to use something like Shell Rotella along with ZDDP for these flat tappet cams. I have a bunch of farm tractors that run straight Rotella, and have never had a wear problem. Btw, its what I use in the Buick also. 15W40. I know that it has some zinc and phosphorous in it already, but is it enough?

It's probably enough zinc and phosphorus but the detergent package is wrong for gasoline engines. Best to use gasoline oil and add ZDDP. IMO.

 

[Squid4life]

I have the Edelbrock 204/214 from summit and love it. Used cam install paste, broke it in correctly with Rotella 10w40 diesel oil, and it has been fine. No zddp, no additives, mixed Castrol 10w30 and 10w40, and probably too many miles on each oil change. I beat it every time I drive it too. Love the smooth idle and great powerband from it, plus it spools the 44 great.

 

[turbo nasty]

Bottom line.....why flirt with wiping a lobe and sending all that metal through the engine?

1 bottle of ZDDPlus and good off the shelf name brand oil and you are good. I prefer Valvoline

Dont know if people think the additive is snake oil or they are just dont want to spend the money for the additive.

IMO the LC2 aint cheap to get built correctly so its protocol to add the zddp and KNOW the levels.

Just know that if the label/starburst says SL, SM or SN the zinc levels arent high enough for PROPER protection.

Just because its diesel oil, racing oil, green, shazam bozo, etc oil doesnt mean it is good and has the protection.

By LAW (EPA mandated) they CANNOT produce/formulate oil with robust zinc thats needed for a Flat Tappett or even real aggresive lobes and spring psi roller and put the above Starbust SL, SM or SN rating.

If you see that rating then add zddp. Or play russian roulette

 

[we4Mateo]

...Dont know if people think the additive is snake oil or they are just dont want to spend the money for the additive...

I think they do think it's snake oil. It's not "as seen on TV." This stuff works and is required on these cars with flat tappet cams.