Which (non o-ring) headgaskets and why?

Which non o-ring type headgasket do you use?


  • Total voters
    80

Blazer406

Mechanical Engineer
I want to know which headgaskets everyone is using and why. I was thinking about cometics.... but read post after post where they seep...... so then I was thinking RJC...... or SCE.....or 9441PT FelPro gaskets.
 
Im running 9441PT's w/ ARP studs. Ive did some research before I used them and it seems like alot of people had sucess with them. I havent had any problems but have only put about 500 miles on my new combo. I also like the idea of having a "fuse". Id rather replace a set of headgaskets then replace motor parts due to a blowproof headgasket.

James
 
IF you are really PUSHING it I'd go with Cometics or RJC's .. BUT remember the fuse you had with the stocker type head gaskets is gone :eek: :p
 
You might get more accurate results if you included a goal ET in your poll. example: What headgaskets would you run if you're shooting for 11's? Just a thought because if you're running 12's there's (IMO) absolutely no reason to run commetics, but if you're running 10.0x then it might not be smart to run 9441's.HTH james
 
You might get more accurate results if you included a goal ET in your poll. example: What headgaskets would you run if you're shooting for 11's? Just a thought because if you're running 12's there's (IMO) absolutely no reason to run commetics, but if you're running 10.0x then it might not be smart to run 9441's.HTH james

you hit it :cool:
 
You might get more accurate results if you included a goal ET in your poll. example: What headgaskets would you run if you're shooting for 11's? Just a thought because if you're running 12's there's (IMO) absolutely no reason to run commetics, but if you're running 10.0x then it might not be smart to run 9441's.HTH james

OK.... fair enough....10.5x to 11.4x is a good range for an ET window.... pump gas and alky...full weight car. I will be running a TE60 initially....and potentially go up to a 45A at some point.
 
Shame on you for letting me wander aimlessly :o

:biggrin: no problem .... seriously the stock headgaskets I ran for a "fuse" since the beginning of time was for a mid /low11 car .. not saying ya can't run them in the 10's BUT I want a little stronger headgasket for when we start to push :eek:
 
:biggrin: no problem .... seriously the stock headgaskets I ran for a "fuse" since the beginning of time was for a mid /low11 car .. not saying ya can't run them in the 10's BUT I want a little stronger headgasket for when we start to push :eek:

Me too.... why else would I consider $180 head gaskets when $50 will do the trick......I don't want my car to fart once... and pop a head gasket. If it blows... it blows.... I'll pick up the pieces and start again.... I just don't want to be one of those that gets fast at changing head gaskets.
 
Run toyota silica free anti freeze. Wont hurt your bearings since there is no silica in it.
I believe the "toyota red" is organic acid based. I've read the organic acid antifreezes are not compatible with copper, brass, and soldered joints. If one has a stock or stock-like radiator, that could be trouble. The cabin heater-core could also be another trouble spot.

IMHO, stick with the "old fashioned" green, Ethylene glycol antifreeze but use the least % possible for your climate, possibly supplemented with RMI-25 additive.

One reference (of many):
Choosing The Right Coolant - Popular Mechanics
 
stacked shims

I am running the old-school shim gaskets with GE1200 glue, stacked 2 per side. Just make sure to smear the glue on evenly, and wipe it away from the coolant metering holes before assembly.

Been running this for about 4 years, no issues, no leaks. I tune carefully.

25 psi with alky.

Bob
 
hey don't make fun of me :rolleyes: :biggrin: they call them "tricks" to get them done faster :eek:


LOL

I still haven't made up my mind.... leaning toward RJC because of the "support the Buick Vendor" ... and the fact that they are cheaper than cometics or SCE's....and from what I can tell... very durable as well....

I should have something ordered before the end of the week. My block is at the machine shop now... getting bored and fitted to my .030 TRW forged slugs I procured.
 
TRICKS,,, in the early days,i worked in a buick pontiac dealer,, on many models we never removed an intake manifold to change a head gasket or even both gaskets,,we were payed on a flat rate system
 
When mine eventually comes apart, I'm planning on using the blue Fel-Pros.

I know it's totally unrelated, but I ran 14.5-1 BBC's with TONS of Nitrous for many years. All those motors had Fel-Pro head gaskets. Two cylinders on each bank of a BBC are prone to headgasket failure due to the lack of a head bolt on the intake side of the cylinder... and I never popped one.


May sound silly, but that's my reason for the Fel-Pro loyalty. :D

I also think it's very important to use a good quality head stud, and torque it well above the factory specs. I was going as high as 80-85ft lbs with some of my nitrous motors.
 
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