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Who's Broke a Motor w/Steel Mains Only (vs a Girdle)?

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My ignorance to motor internal stresses may show here, but doesn't a girdle just add strength to the main caps? In other words, if a motor doesn't break a cap, or shows bearing wear, what difference does it make whether it had a girdle or not? How could a girdle reduce bearing wear? I'm under the impression that a girdle simply adds strength to the main caps, which prevents the crank from exiting the motor.

Or is it that the girdle prevents any flextion in the main caps and thereby reduces bearing wear?

Terry
 
My ignorance to motor internal stresses may show here, but doesn't a girdle just add strength to the main caps? In other words, if a motor doesn't break a cap, or shows bearing wear, what difference does it make whether it had a girdle or not? How could a girdle reduce bearing wear? I'm under the impression that a girdle simply adds strength to the main caps, which prevents the crank from exiting the motor.

The girdle does all the above It strenghtens the hole bottom block and prevents the main caps from walking inwhich then keeps the bearings from wearing. :)
 
And how may I ask are you girdle people stopping the oil leaks. Or are they leaking at all as some are saying.

Gary
 
Originally posted by Gary
And how may I ask are you girdle people stopping the oil leaks. Or are they leaking at all as some are saying.

Gary

Jason recommends girdle buyers use some crap called "The Right Stuff". Very expensive....like $20 per tube. But it works extremely well. I used it and mine doesn't leak....I wonder if those whose cars are leaking used something else?

Oh, and if you get any "Right Stuff" on your hands then go to the bathroom you won't be able to take a leak for a month.:D
 
I was told if the girdle is done right u won't have any oil leaks.
And the guy building my motor said he has never had one leak yet and I believe him. Jason C. knows alot look where his car is running and with a child car seat in the backseat:eek:
 
I think by the time you pull your motor and buy caps and a girdle and do the boring and then go through the whole, damn motor to fix all the stuff Buick didn't get right (puny heads, cast pistons, crap timing set, and on, and on) you might put your motor in a mayonnaise jar and get in line for a TA block that (hopefully) you can pound on endlessly and still sleep at night...

:D
 
Originally posted by V6 Beast
I went 10.95 @ 125 @ Bristol with Center Steels, TE-64E, 55's CAS FM, Champion Iron Heads, 208/201 CAM, AC 19930 3500 Stall

I haven't tried this latest combo of 72's, TE-45A, 214/208 CAM but will find out this weekend at Reynolds.


Sully

Sully, please educate me. Your upgrade to John Craig's 45A, isn't it pretty similar to the TE-64E?? I thought they were pretty much the same turbo??

Good luck at Reynolds, I hope you kick ass:D
 
Well when I had my turbo rebuilt, JC used a 66 MM compressor wheel rather than the 64. It's a pretty small change I think but I it was done because I needed to rebuild turbo not as a upgrade. I mostly will be checking out the 72's and bigger cam.


Sully
 
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