Will 28psi fuel pressure cause this....

[GNONYX]

Here is the relay he put in. The orange wire runs all the way to the trunk

It looks like a 10awg wire as you describe, but do things in little steps, as salvageV6 said you have to take care of the up/down idle.
It may be the IAC need to be remove and clean with carb cleaner and also the throttle body. Here is an excellent site for many basic TR stuffs you can read and how to adjust the IAC and also the TPS, (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/iac_adjustment.html)
Down the road you can take care of the others things as I mention before.
get back to us once you clean all, made adjustment, and if you still need any help or assistant.

 

[salvageV6]

If the up down cold idle is the only immediate issue I'd clean the IACV and then wait for the scanmaster to verify the cold and warm idle air and MAF and BLM numbers.

The service manual calls for a few checks for that hunting problem:

Check the throttle linkage for any binding, check the voltage to see if it's in range while running 12.5 to 14.8 range.

Park neutral switch circuitry.

Injector cleaning and balance. (not easy)

PCV valve operation along with EGR valve operation, no EGR operation takes place at idle.

Check the check valves in the various lines to make sure they still work properly and note the direction they are installed BEFORE you take them off.

Throttle bore for cleanliness and closing properly.

BLM's can be checked to be sure they're under 138 at idle with the scanmaster.

MAF hoses and pipes for no leaks and proper air flow at idle checked with the scanmaster.

 

[cecil bass]

I just got up this morning to continue this task and now the damn thing won't even start up when you put the key in ignition shouldn't the fuel pump come on? I check the fuel pressure coming to the fuel rail it's showing 0..... do you guys think that the hot wire kit could have killed my stock fuel pump.. because now I don't think it's pumping any fuel don't know wh!!!!at to do now?????

 

[bison]

Salvage v6 is correct. The fuel pump isn't the problem here. It's common to have a little hunting with a stock chip and an old 02 sensor. Any ambient air getting in the exhaust could cause problems once its in closed loopThree throttle body shaft seals are likely shot and the pcv may be pulling too much air in during open loop causing the a/f to go all over the place as the ecu tries to maintain engine speed.

 

[cecil bass]

I follow the power from the Hotwire relay back to the trunk where it goes into the fuel pump wire there's no power coming from the relay With the key on. shouldn't there be power going to the fuel pump with the key On? And how can I test the hotwire relay because if there's no power going to Fuel pump that can be a problem with the car not starting.......

 

[cecil bass]

ok , the pump is getting power like over 14 volts ...... but i dont hear the pump come on when i turn the key on. i know im not getting fuel to the rail cause theres no pressure or fuel coming out the front of the valve when i crank the engine what should i do next ???? i got to get this thing running again so i can find out why it is sputtering when i get to 10 psi of boost ..... help please !!!

 

[GNONYX]

You need to have a fuel gauge install on the fuel rail to verify if you do indeed have any fuel pressure or not.
You should be able to at least heard the pump turn on once you turn the key in the on position, and be able to see fuel pressure on the rail.
It can also be the fuel pump is breaking down.
Here is another site on checking out the fuel system check up.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/fpsys_check.html

 

[dynoman]

If you have 14v going up to the top of the don't stop there . If you have a meter check the resistance of the pump at the plug . It should be 2-3 ohms, if it's higher you probably have a bad connection at the bulk head connector. Start there first, also read the thread " Stranded , Fuel pump not running" for troubleshooting tips. We should have a stickey on fuel pump troubleshooting. Good luck hope this helps. Sam

 

[dynoman]

After you get it running, this problem is probably why you are sputtering at 10 psi of boost ! Get a gauge so you can see it rise 1psi of fuel pressure to 1 psi of boost or kiss those head gaskets good bye. Sam

 

[cecil bass]

After you get it running, this problem is probably why you are sputtering at 10 psi of boost ! Get a gauge so you can see it rise 1psi of fuel pressure to 1 psi of boost or kiss those head gaskets good bye. Sam

i have a fuel pressure gauge what do you mean ? the boost going to high?

 

[dynoman]

Can you see both FP and boost pressure while driving ? For every 1 psi of boost your fuel pressure should rise 1 psi , so at idle if your base FP is 28psi (no boost) at 10psi of boost FP should be 38psi. I'll bet it doesn't rise 1 for 1 and your going lean , then you get detonation. Sam

 

[cecil bass]

ohhh when it was running it wasn"t the 1 for 1 rise in FP, it didnt rise at all. so did i blow a gasket or something??? How do know this has happened ? The FP and Sending unit will be getting replaced in the next few days "with fuel filter" then i will update everyone on my progress and i"ll have a scanmaster for better referance to whats happening with this .............work in progress!!!!

 

[dynoman]

Let's get it running first , verify that you have 1 for 1 in FP ( don't just go WOT, build boost slowly and watch FP) and who knows maybe it will be OK . Install Scanmaster before taking it for a test drive . Make sure you check all connections at the top of the tank . Sam

 

[GNONYX]

Let's get it running first , verify that you have 1 for 1 in FP ( don't just go WOT, build boost slowly and watch FP) and who knows maybe it will be OK . Install Scanmaster before taking it for a test drive . Make sure you check all connections at the top of the tank . Sam

The problem right now is he can't start the engine, and as he said before he did have 14v at the pump. The previous owner installed his own type of hot wire system which is probably not weather proof and all connection and terminals might be corroded.
I respect everyone's opinion, but me personally, I would ripe out the existing so call hot wire he previous owner installed, and start from scratch. You already got the fuel pump, now you will need the fuel pump regulator, fuel filter, and a hot wire kit like the Racetronix http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPWH-006&eq=&Tp. This kit is straight forward in pre-wire assemble and complete for installation.
You claimed you have a fuel gauge; is that attached to the fuel rail or is it an external that attach to the fuel rail?
Once you have install all new fuel component's (hot wire system, fuel pump, fuel regulator, fuel filter), hook up the fuel gauge, start the engine and take it from there.

 

[cecil bass]

Let's get it running first , verify that you have 1 for 1 in FP ( don't just go WOT, build boost slowly and watch FP) and who knows maybe it will be OK . Install Scanmaster before taking it for a test drive . Make sure you check all connections at the top of the tank . Sam

thanks sam and everyone else for all your help ......ill let you guys know how it goes

 

[cecil bass]

found the problem ..... i took the tank and sending out and found out the fuel pump wouldnt turn on in the tank but when i got it out comes on, but only when it wants to. I dont know if its the ground or the pump is just going bad. The sending unit is fried the fuel level only shows -- on the digital dash. new parts on the way ...... work in progress !!!