010 block

incharge

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2005
Guys I need some info on the small block stuff is the 010 block an oem block? what cars did they come in ?? is the 010 part of the casting #? is it a 350 or 400 truck block ? thanks for any info looking to start stocking up on parts and maybe one day switching over to the other side.:biggrin:
 
010 is the last three numbers of the part number cast in on top of the flange where the bellhousing bolts to the engine. I have one in my 74 L 82 Corvette and it is a 4 bolt main. If I remember correctly they also come in a 2 bolt main in some cases. 350 ci It use to be the block of choice many years ago.:biggrin:

Good luck,
Jim
 
the four bolt blocks usually came as a truck application, or in a vette. They were said to have a higher content of knickle 69-79. I've had 2 of them, great blocks.
make sure you measure the block. in 68 they made a 327 with same casting number...
 
The Block cast number 3970010 by distributor. And the 010 020 under timing cover issuppose to designate the nickel and tin content as a percenatage.
 
I was a teenager in the 80's and my best friend's dad was a mechanic. I know he always said that the 0010 blocks were all 4 bolt main blocks. If there is any truth to it, I don't know, but so far every 0010 block that I have been into has been a 4 bolt main block. It is as good as any other system I guess when you are looking for a junkyard engine to rebuild.:smile:
 
the 010 2 bolt main block with aftermarket 4 bolt splayed mains and 1/2 fill hard block is as good as it gets as far as gen 1 chevy OEM stuff.
 
This is a target master block, because I could not find an 010 block that would sonic well and after three sonics at $150 each, this target master block soniced the best. This is a 383, with a cola crank, six inch childs rods, pistons are full float, AFR heads, lots of cam, intake and carb. I plan to put it into my 55 chevy truck. Maybe the best bet for you is to find a block that sonics well and start from there. This engine has seen 6800rpm with no problems (remember, lots of weight to swing in a 383). I do like the idea of 2 bolt main and then installing splayed main caps
 
This is a target master block, because I could not find an 010 block that would sonic well and after three sonics at $150 each, this target master block soniced the best. This is a 383, with a cola crank, six inch childs rods, pistons are full float, AFR heads, lots of cam, intake and carb. I plan to put it into my 55 chevy truck. Maybe the best bet for you is to find a block that sonics well and start from there. This engine has seen 6800rpm with no problems (remember, lots of weight to swing in a 383). I do like the idea of 2 bolt main and then installing splayed main caps
I think my last block was a target block. It said made in Mexico on the back, and had an option for a dipstick on both sides. I should have installed both:D
 
I agree with this statement totally. It is better to start with a 2 bolt block (I have built 14 of these, long ago) and use splayed main caps so the tension/pull is in a different plane than the 4 bolts pulling on the main web only. I have used the Milodon caps and had the block main saddles checked and the machinist I used to use would get everything so close that I would have the block align honed to take out the .0015" that he would get it close to. He was such a great machinist and I was sad when he retired. :( Anyway, there are lots of 2 bolt 010 blocks and if it came from a truck with the "camper special" or tow package, it was supposed to be guaranteed a 4 bolt.

the 010 2 bolt main block with aftermarket 4 bolt splayed mains and 1/2 fill hard block is as good as it gets as far as gen 1 chevy OEM stuff.
 
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In 2000 I used an 010 350 block built with twin turbos in an 85 regal it ran great & held up well for many years. Pushed it up to 1300 h.p. before the center main cracked but caught it in time with no other damage. The engine now has steel splayed caps & all gone through.It is fresh with crower crank aluminum rods, J&E 8-1 pistons Erson 600 lift 250 @ 050 roller cam & valve train, AFR C&C ported heads 7 QT. deep pan ,SFI dampener & fly wheel. Four barrel EFI intake. plus much more. Anyone contemplating switching to a V/8 here is a great start & a chance to save some money.All professionally built & no junk. Asking price is $7,000.00 & ready to install . Will ship anywhere in the U.S. 949-378-1590 pictures on request.
 
I believe the 010 SBC is about as common as it gets for 350 chevy's back in the day....

I had one of the "hecho en mexico" blocks as well..... that thing took literally 100's of quarter mile passes in my 4000 # S10 Blazer years ago... and about 75k street miles.... never a complaint..... of course I wasn't making a whole lot of power.... pump gas... power brakes.... no power adder..... was enough to push my sled to 13.13 in the 1/4..... great engine IMHO....I believe mine was 4 bolt too...
 
I have an "010" 350 that I installed in my Jeep a few years ago and when I did a search on the block #s it came up as coming from early 70s Camaro, Corvette or truck. For some reason I had a hard time finding a starter that would work with that block combined with the bell housing/SM465 tranny out a 79 K30 truck I had.
 
ALL i can say is that i have seen 010 2 bolt and 4 bolt, but i do own 2 010/020 blocks. 1 a 2 bolt and 1 is a 4 bolt so as i see it gm did some weard things that no one will understand.
 
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ALL i can say is that i have seen 010 2 bolt and 4 bolt, but i do own 2 010/020 blocks. 1 a 2 bolt and 1 is a 4 bolt so as i see it gm did some weard things that no one will understand.
In the early 90's there was a guy from N.Y. named Jobe Spetter well known in the community built many fast turbo cars. One particular was a Back halved TR 350 SBC 23 degree heads & TT that ran mid 8's repeatedly with no problems. After seeing that & talking to him it turned out that it had a 010 production block with stock main caps.Long story short I tried the same build up in an 85 Regal ( what better to do with a hot air car ) & at 20 # with 12 X 29 good years managed to squeak a 9.02 155mph without killing myself it made about 950 RWHP & was a handful. This was in street trim & a real curb slapper..That same car later back halved ran an 8.30 169mph & the next run broke the trans.With all the runs on the engine & now 30 # boost it finally cracked a center main cap. Caught it in time & freshened it up using steel splayed caps this time. By the way it also had aluminum rods & after 5 years of hard use never gave me a problem. That engine is still in my possession & up for sale complete with F.I. for $7,000 to the next person who wants to duplicate the success. So if your on a budget this certainly will work.So based on my experience I would not be afraid of a 010 block & myself not being the only one with same luck.
 
010

this is what i found on a Chevy site, and I've got one in my 69z28


Casting Years CID HP Main Notes

3970010 1969-69 350 255-350 4 Truck/Pass/Chevelle/ChevyII/
Corvette/Camaro

3970010 1969 302 290 4 Z-28 Camaro

3970010 1970-80 350 145-350 2/4 Truck/Passenger/Chevelle/Chevy
 
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