10.16 at 132.21

[johnplogii]

Just throwing this out there as an idea.....

Some time when I know I'm going to Glenwood and you'll be there for sure, I should bring up my Mark Hueffman big mouth cold air kit and ls1 maf/translator/3.5" maf pipe setup to see if it makes any difference. If it is going to gain anything on anyone's vehicle it would be on a low 10 car running the stock maf. I bought it only because it was shiny and I wanted the more reliable MAF so I won't be disappointed if it doesn't gain anything. Would only take about 10 minutes.....

You probably remember me. I talked to you one night up at glenwood. My buddy says your back wheels/tires almost bottom out when you launch, but I couldn't check it out because it was your last run (on a different night when I think you made the finals, maybe the night with the rocket cars and such). What do you run for air pressure in the rear?

Bob Koch

The larger maf & pipe may help some but do you have to run a different chip for the translator? I gained a solid .10 & 1.5 mph going from a stock to 62mm throttle body. Definately let me know when you plan on coming up this way. I run around 10psi in the slicks. I know what you are talking about I have seen pictures where it looks like my rim is almost in contact with the ground.

 

[johnplogii]

Bob, is this what you mean?

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I like this one better:biggrin:

 

[johnplogii]

I do too Bryan, I was just looking for a picture where the rim looks like it is almost touching the ground. Kyle at 1320 says he will be working on the shootout video next week.

John

 

[brian]

Damn... Nice launch John!

Brian

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Cant wait to watch that video of us at the track, hopefully it turns out as good as the ones in the past :biggrin:

BW

 

[INEEDAGN]

No you don't have to change the chip. I can set the Trans+ to basically bypass mode where all it does is convert the ls1 maf signal to stock, and it will still limit at 255. I actually have an extender chip for 60's, but it's programmed for a stock headed street car on pump gas. There's a LOT of adjustment in this setup but I don't think there's quite THAT much. At least not without a bunch of dial in passes. If you are willing to cut a wire on your ignition module harness we can do timing adjustments too, but I figured we'd just bolt it on using the trans plus as a signal converter and nothing else. This is the rough aluminum kit that I sanded/polished myself. It kinda needs redone anyway so no worries about scratches. If your charcoal canister is still in place we will have to undo one screw and swing it out of the way, and without the IAC angle boss the wires may touch the rubber connector.

Is your hood permanently buckled or is your header panel crunching it in bryan's pic?

If we are going to do this it should be at a 1/4 mile track for best results. Where else do you run it at? I have a buddy in KC so I could go there some night.

 

[johnplogii]

We go to KCIR sometimes too. The hood is an old fiberglass unit that is weak in the center.

 

[incharge]

Do you have a fiberglass hood or does bend like that from the launch??

 

[johnplogii]

We go to KCIR sometimes too. The hood is an old fiberglass unit that is weak in the center.

Fiberglass hood that was made wrong.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Looks like you are driving over the sidewall wrinkles..
Have you tried to use more air pressure in them?
I did some tire tests w/ MT engineering. We found that the 28x10's worked best w/ 14#.
Also, at 10" wide, the 8" wheel is pulling the bead seat and sidewall in, and possibly pulling the outer edges of the contact surface, off the track. What's the scuff pattern look like?
Another item that may be looked at, hitting the tire so hard at 10psi inflation, that you are causing the chassis to "porpoise", and actually unload the tires after the initial hit. Maybe, a good closeup video would show more?? Perhaps a good double adj shock would allow you to control this.
Sidewall wrinkle position can help define the problem.
IE:
Ft wrinkle only = low antisquat.
Bottom = high a/s.
Lower ft/bottom = acceptable w/ correct psi.
Bottom can also = excessive a/s, and low psi.

Back under my rock...

 

[johnplogii]

Thanks for all the input Chuck, the plan is to find some 15 x 10's for the new mickey thompsons. I also plan to put the car on some 4 wheel scales as soon as I get the motor back in it. The 60 fts really declined right after I put in the roll bar and I am thinking I may have had something tweaked when we welded it in. I have some video that I have watched over & over. The car spins the tires 1/2 to 3/4 of a revolution as it moves the first 6 inches or so, then they hook which makes for a pretty soft launch & not so great 60ft. It was only spinning the rt rear & the left was hooking so I put in a spool. Now it spins em both.

John

 

[Scott Atk]

John with 245 fronts I'm assuming this car gets driven on the street. How's the spool (rear end not turbo) on the street??
p.s. I'm with Bob on the bigger MAF. That might give you what you need for a 9.99 by itself. Good Luck.

 

[johnplogii]

Scott, I really don't drive it on the street much at all, I just haven't bought skinnies for it yet. If I had known I would see absolutely no 60ft improvement I would not have put the spool in it.

 

[ttypewhite]

Very respectable numbers, especailly with a flat tappet cam. Good for you. I changed over from FT to hydr roller when my car ran 10.20's. You should look into it, extending the rpm should improve your et & mph. That maybe all you need to see that 9sec slip.

 

[no-nos]

out-standing john, great time!! can't wait to test mine.

 

[bison]

Scott, I really don't drive it on the street much at all, I just haven't bought skinnies for it yet. If I had known I would see absolutely no 60ft improvement I would not have put the spool in it.

The skinnies will definitely help up top. I made about 16 passes with a friends car on one day a few years back and about half were on the heavy rims and tires and the rest were on the skinnies. Averaged about 1.2 mph gain with the lighter rims and tires (50-60lbs savings). The suspension wasnt setup properly so i dont have any good data on the 60'. It should help a bunch in your combo since you will be removing a lot of frontal weight. Id also play with the air pressures more. When the nose of your car comes down it might be making the rear unload a little too much. The extra air pressure may take some frontal lift out of the launch but it should help the car shoot out of the hole more. As long as all the weight is on the rear tires your all set. No need to get any higher than that.

 

[kingots2004]

man that is an awesome running car.hope i can get mine down there

 

[johnplogii]

Thanks everyone, I can't wait to get back out with the car. It was -10 here yesterday and 1/2 my motor is at the machine shop. We SHOULD be racing in 3 1/2 weeks if all goes well. Wheels/skinnies are in the works as well as scaling the car. We also ordered a tighter converter. I would like to get the car to run more efficiently so we can go faster with the same amount of power. As far as the cam goes, I'm sure you are right Mike, but a cam change would warrant injectors and computer changes. It seems to be working real well as it is. Better 60fts & a tighter converter might put it right where I want it. We shall see.