10.33 @ 129

[The Granny]

New PB, congrats! What did the car dyno and whats weight of the car? Which TC in the trans? Your combo is def working!

Dyno was reading everyone's car super low, high 300s low 400s if i remember right... it was messed up for sure. Brian estimated 620ish to the wheels based on how it felt. It weighs 3450 with me in it, it's got a 17 blade PTC. thank you, it's all finally coming together. this build has taken quite some time, but i'm glad i'm doing it right the first time around


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[dynoman]

Nice run ! Was that off the trans brake ?
Those numbers look familiar , but you got me by a touch . My best so far also . how much boost you running ? I was at 29 psi .

 

[The Granny]

Nice run ! Was that off the trans brake ?
Those numbers look familiar , but you got me by a touch . My best so far also . how much boost you running ? I was at 29 psi .

View attachment 315766

Thank you! Yes it was off a tbrake. Our numbers are so close it's scary lol. Boost was 25 psi in 1st and 2nd and touched 28 on the top end


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[Haulz A]

Dyno was reading everyone's car super low, high 300s low 400s if i remember right... it was messed up for sure. Brian estimated 620ish to the wheels based on how it felt. It weighs 3450 with me in it, it's got a 17 blade PTC. thank you, it's all finally coming together. this build has taken quite some time, but i'm glad i'm doing it right the first time around


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WOW- your car is very llight weight @ 3450 with the driver because the average Buick racer weigh at least 200 lbs- Lol. A lot of THS/TAI/TSM racers run the same PTC 17 blade convertor which is very tight and requires lots of power to make it couple around 5200 - 5400 rpm range which is where the HP/TQ curve is on this engine ( the sweet spot ).

You must be running an external waste gate/ electronic boost controller to apply 25 lbs of boost in 1st/2nd and 28 lbs in 3rd gear. Ru planning running @ any of the Buick events this year- with that turbo (6870)- it seem like your car would fit the TAI class. Contact JD or look up the rules for TAI if you are interested. Good luck with your build and keep the Buicks alive.


Haulz A

 

[434nova]

Dyno was reading everyone's car super low, high 300s low 400s if i remember right... it was messed up for sure. Brian estimated 620ish to the wheels based on how it felt. It weighs 3450 with me in it, it's got a 17 blade PTC. thank you, it's all finally coming together. this build has taken quite some time, but i'm glad i'm doing it right the first time around


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What’s done for weight reduction? My car is 3850 with me in it. I’m 250. I wish I could lose 300 - 400. #s.

 

[The Granny]

WOW- your car is very llight weight @ 3450 with the driver because the average Buick racer weigh at least 200 lbs- Lol. A lot of THS/TAI/TSM racers run the same PTC 17 blade convertor which is very tight and requires lots of power to make it couple around 5200 - 5400 rpm range which is where the HP/TQ curve is on this engine ( the sweet spot ).

You must be running an external waste gate/ electronic boost controller to apply 25 lbs of boost in 1st/2nd and 28 lbs in 3rd gear. Ru planning running @ any of the Buick events this year- with that turbo (6870)- it seem like your car would fit the TAI class. Contact JD or look up the rules for TAI if you are interested. Good luck with your build and keep the Buicks alive.


Haulz A

Haha, what's funny is there's no serious weight reduction done to the car... besides upgraded suspension all the way around (control arms, shocks, springs) it's all stock. I also have manual windows/doors, so that plays a role too..

I actually got the converter from Tyler at Boosted RPS. He planned on using it with his combo, but he changed cranks after purchasing the converter and the new crank snout wouldn't fit without modifying the converter. I had been talking with him about converters for my car, and he brought his up and offered it to me. So i called Dusty B to verify itd be a quality match for my combo, and he said it's what he would put in a car like mine. So i was able to get it without having to wait 6-8 weeks or whatever the wait time was at the time, which was pretty awesome.

No external boost controller, yet. Still have an internal WG. I believe it's boost creeping up, i have it maxed out on the rod so even if i wanted to turn it up some more i couldn't. I plan on trying a method that Bison proposed to control boost better next time i go to the track, hopefully that nets me good results. If not an external gate and aftermarket boost controller will be in the works. Not sure if i can make it out to any events this year but i'll try for sure. I read the rules for TAI a while back but i've gotta make sure my car qualifies for it, it'd definitely be fun to go out there. Thank you for the good luck wishes! Hope your car is moving along nice as well.

What’s done for weight reduction? My car is 3850 with me in it. I’m 250. I wish I could lose 300 - 400. #s.

Just suspension mods, control arms/shocks/springs. Manual windows and locks also. I must have been blessed with one of those super light grand nationals, lol. I'm around 185lbs myself



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[Haulz A]

Haha, what's funny is there's no serious weight reduction done to the car... besides upgraded suspension all the way around (control arms, shocks, springs) it's all stock. I also have manual windows/doors, so that plays a role too..

I actually got the converter from Tyler at Boosted RPS. He planned on using it with his combo, but he changed cranks after purchasing the converter and the new crank snout wouldn't fit without modifying the converter. I had been talking with him about converters for my car, and he brought his up and offered it to me. So i called Dusty B to verify itd be a quality match for my combo, and he said it's what he would put in a car like mine. So i was able to get it without having to wait 6-8 weeks or whatever the wait time was at the time, which was pretty awesome.

No external boost controller, yet. Still have an internal WG. I believe it's boost creeping up, i have it maxed out on the rod so even if i wanted to turn it up some more i couldn't. I plan on trying a method that Bison proposed to control boost better next time i go to the track, hopefully that nets me good results. If not an external gate and aftermarket boost controller will be in the works. Not sure if i can make it out to any events this year but i'll try for sure. I read the rules for TAI a while back but i've gotta make sure my car qualifies for it, it'd definitely be fun to go out there. Thank you for the good luck wishes! Hope your car is moving along nice as well.



Just suspension mods, control arms/shocks/springs. Manual windows and locks also. I must have been blessed with one of those super light grand nationals, lol. I'm around 185lbs myself



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Thanks for the reply concerning the previous threads- as far as the boost creep that your having with that ball bearing turbo is common symptoms of not porting your exhaust housing efficient enough for the exhaust air to bleed off .

I'm running a 6766 bb turbo and had to port my exhaust housing to prevent boost creep when using a stock style internal waste gate- you should be able port it enough to get the boost creep within a half lbs creep between gear shifts without spending thousands of dollars on a expensive external waste gate set-up.

Make sure you contour the inside of the waste gate hole shape like a valve seat which will provide the smoothest air transition.


Haulz. A

 

[TurboJames]

Probably the 7th hit in the car at the track, 2nd of the day. the first hit of the day it spun on the launch and the car darted to the side right after the 60'. everyone in the staging lanes was saying how the track was crap, so i watched a couple cars ahead of me make passes and i made some minor adjustments to the suspension for the first time since it was installed and got some pretty decent results....

this are the first passes i've made in the car since the tune session with Bison, and since i installed my Gee M Racing headers. also changed the plenum/tb combo, went from a stock set up there to a 70mm/hemco set up

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=pYzmy668hsQ
View attachment 315423


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man.. solid run.. i have a very similar setup... what converter are you running?

 

[The Granny]

Thanks for the reply concerning the previous threads- as far as the boost creep that your having with that ball bearing turbo is common symptoms of not porting your exhaust housing efficient enough for the exhaust air to bleed off .

I'm running a 6766 bb turbo and had to port my exhaust housing to prevent boost creep when using a stock style internal waste gate- you should be able port it enough to get the boost creep within a half lbs creep between gear shifts without spending thousands of dollars on a expensive external waste gate set-up.

Make sure you contour the inside of the waste gate hole shape like a valve seat which will provide the smoothest air transition.


Haulz. A

No problem, sorry for the late reply i've been kinda busy. Funny you mention the puck and hole in the housing not mating properly, it's always been in the back of my mind my that may be my issue. My exhaust housing was ported to my old downpipe, and with the new one the hole wound up being off center so i just got one of those plates with the hole already drilled in the correct location for an RJC DP. there's a section of the exhaust housing i could see when dry fitting that plate onto the housing, so that may be my issue.

edit: here's a picture of what i'm talking about.

man.. solid run.. i have a very similar setup... what converter are you running?

thank you, a 17 blade PTC NLU



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[TurboTGuy]

Be careful porting that puck hole, ask me how in know.......

Nothing an RJC block off plate, an external waste gate and new down pipe didn't fix......... oops.

 

[The Granny]

Be careful porting that puck hole, ask me how in know.......

Nothing an RJC block off plate, an external waste gate and new down pipe didn't fix......... oops.

View attachment 316942

Lol, yes i'll make sure to do it slowly. thinking about just porting the exhaust housing to the under edge of the plate. not sure yet though, gonna get a couple opinions from guys more experienced than me before i do anything


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[Haulz A]

Lol, yes i'll make sure to do it slowly. thinking about just porting the exhaust housing to the under edge of the plate. not sure yet though, gonna get a couple opinions from guys more experienced than me before i do anything


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Granny,
I dont have a plate between my down pipe and turbo. You should only contour/port the inside of the housing and not extend the outside hole size of the housing unless absolutely necessary to reduce boost creep. Contouring the inside of turbo housing first in the shape of a valve seat- then installed it- that should reduce your boost creep. If not- then only extend the outside diameter of the hole a little at a time and then install the turbo to check for boost/ minunum boost that can be ran on the turbo. Good luck- its just time consuming but its winter time- Lol


Haulz A

 

[Haulz A]

Lol, yes i'll make sure to do it slowly. thinking about just porting the exhaust housing to the under edge of the plate. not sure yet though, gonna get a couple opinions from guys more experienced than me before i do anything


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Granny,
I dont have a plate between my down pipe and turbo. You should only contour/port the inside of the housing and not extend the outside hole size of the housing unless absolutely necessary to reduce boost creep. Contouring the inside of turbo housing first in the shape of a valve seat- then installed it- that should reduce your boost creep. If not- then only extend the outside diameter of the hole a little at a time and then install the turbo to check for boost/ minunum boost that can be ran on the turbo. Good luck- its just time consuming but its winter time- Lol


Haulz A

 

[Haulz A]

Lol, yes i'll make sure to do it slowly. thinking about just porting the exhaust housing to the under edge of the plate. not sure yet though, gonna get a couple opinions from guys more experienced than me before i do anything


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Granny,
I dont have a plate between my down pipe and turbo. You should only contour/port the inside of the housing and not extend the outside hole size of the housing unless absolutely necessary to reduce boost creep. Contouring the inside of turbo housing first in the shape of a valve seat- then installed it- that should reduce your boost creep. If not- then only extend the outside diameter of the hole a little at a time and then install the turbo to check for boost/ minunum boost that can be ran on the turbo. Good luck- its just time consuming but its winter time- Lol


Haulz A