1987 pro-touring grand national, from the ground up

eBAY, I think they will look really good once the paint is on there. Plus the plastic vent screens will be replaced with nice extruded metal powdercoated. So more to come ;)
 
dsapper, I admire your build. This is the build I wish I could do but don't have the resources for. I wanted to add comment about the bracing that may be more relevant to those reading this thread. First comment is that you can take the front GP frame brace and mount it more forward with new mounting holes. I had to do that because my stretched SLIC was in the way.

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I was wondering about the braces outlined in light blue for the wheel well area of the frame. Are you using those? What car do they come off of? I'm doing everything except for the cowl to fender braces. Thanks

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I have a suggestion for the car audio system. Do something that pays tribute to the Speakerworks GN that Richard Clark competed with.

SpeakerWorks/USD Audio Install Gallery

You could do 6.5"s in the kicks with some horns under the dash. Put some 8"s next to the back seat for some solid midbass and maybe a couple 12"s sealed off in IB in the trunk.
 
dsapper, I admire your build. This is the build I wish I could do but don't have the resources for. I wanted to add comment about the bracing that may be more relevant to those reading this thread. First comment is that you can take the front GP frame brace and mount it more forward with new mounting holes. I had to do that because my stretched SLIC was in the way.

web.jpg


I was wondering about the braces outlined in light blue for the wheel well area of the frame. Are you using those? What car do they come off of? I'm doing everything except for the cowl to fender braces. Thanks

147949-1987-pro-touring-grand-national-ground-up-brace-diagram1pro-tour-frame-mod-gn.jpg

The dark blue braces are weld in braces, like these on my car
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The light blue are bars that go from the upper to lower rear control arm mount, like these. They required some grinding to make the two work together
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I have a suggestion for the car audio system. Do something that pays tribute to the Speakerworks GN that Richard Clark competed with.

SpeakerWorks/USD Audio Install Gallery

You could do 6.5"s in the kicks with some horns under the dash. Put some 8"s next to the back seat for some solid midbass and maybe a couple 12"s sealed off in IB in the trunk.

Thats quite a bit more over the top than I was thinking haha
 
Thats quite a bit more over the top than I was thinking haha

IMO your whole car is over the top so don't cut it short with an average sound system. You are putting good work into the interior. Finish it off with some good sound deadening and a nice, clean audio system. You don't have to go with 5 amps and studio EQ's. Get a good clean headunit, nice signal processor, a couple nice amps, and some high end speakers. I'm mainly talking about the speaker arrangement in regards to a Richard Clark tribute.

Also, do those control arm braces come stock on any G bodies?
 
If you're talking about these braces, no. You can get them from full throttle or do like I did and make them.:biggrin:
 

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I'm talking about the ones that connect the lower control arm mounts to the upper control arm mounts (light blue in the diagram).
 
They are not stock buickmike, I got mine from edelbrock. Here Edelbrock 5211 - Edelbrock Tubular Braces - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I'm doing the sound deadening and have already line-x'ed under the car to reduce noise but I'm no audiophile and its not in the budget to go insane. I'm still leaning towards the gbodyparts lower doors with 6.5" (assuming they fit 6.5" speakers), tweeters in the dash, maybe rear 5 1/4" and 2 10" subs in a box. Ill get good quality components but nothing insane.
 
hello; Because of the mod made to the SC&C front brace with the aftermarket SLIC I made a suggestion to them via E-mail to sell the brace in pcs. so you don't have to cut and re weld a complete brace. IMO it would fix the mounting problems with the aftermarket IC. Then just weld it and paint PC or leave it alone it would be your choice.. It should be cheaper also.
No return E-mail yet.
this is going to be a great car
IBBY
 
Thanks. I knew they were aftermarket, but didn't know if they were reproductions of something that may have originally come on some other G Body. Almost all of my braces came off of a Cutlass or Grand Prix out of the junk yard. In the spirit of maintaining my cheap ass build I will weld up my own braces. Thanks for your input!
 
For anyone following this, the guy helping me build and tune my car, Scott Atkinson, was in a major crash this week. There is a thread going on right now for paypal donations to help with medical expenses and/or to replace his car. I encourage everyone that can to help a little bit especially going into the holiday season. Some great vendors have stepped up to offer raffle prizes to people that donate as well, please check out the thread

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tu...onations-scott-atk-crash-west-coast-nats.html
 
Well the car is coming close to going to body, just waiting on a new header panel after noticing how damaged mine was. The interior got pulled completely and that process has started. I thought I would show you how I'm changing the interior color since I really haven't seen a write-up on how to do it before. First things first, gut the car. You could paint it inside but I wanted the highest quality finish and longest lasting I could possibly do. So here is the carnage

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As you can see its a bit of a mess. We are rewiring some of it, cleaning up alot of it and throwing away the rest lol. I had the guys weld the gnx brace in a few areas that the bolts didn't really support. There is some very light surface rust in the corner of the floors that Ill clean up with a wire brush and some paint when I'm ready to do the sound deadening. A few more years and it might have turned into something though!
 
he first thing I did after getting the parts home was to clean them, I used dish soap and a sponge with the green scuff pad on it to get years of armor all and other waxes off it.

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After cleaning them I used a SEM product to remove any wax or grease that had been in the pores so deep that soap and water wouldnt handle it.

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After that I took an exacto knife and trimmed off alot of the mold flashing and cleaned up scuffs as best I could
 
After cleaning them I went into my paint booth, aka garage, and set up the pieces to be painted

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I used the SEM plastic prep. Its an adhesion promoter that makes the paint stick to the plastic better and flex a bit. One thin mist and one thick coat and its ready to paint

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This is the paint I used. Its the SEM satin black. It spray's pretty well. One thing I use is the cheap plastic spray handles that attach to the cans, It helps alot

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