1987 pro-touring grand national, from the ground up
- Thread starter dsapper
- Start date
I'm actually going to try and fit some TTA hood vents, they are in the mail as we speak. The headlights are both for cooling and a "cool factor", I doubt seriously it will hurt and its very easy to change back.
No, you cant use stock anything. It was all fabricated up to use that crossmember. As members have pointed out, its for a dual exhaust car like a monte SS, not our cars with a single exhaust. The downpipe doesnt even really line up.
The front and rear brace are done, heading off to powdercoat then a final install. With them being installed the underside of the car is 100% done!
They remade the SC&C front brace to fit with the slic pte intercooler. The rear is some thick walled dom tubing bent as close as possible to the body with some wiggle room. It will disappear with the bumper on
They remade the SC&C front brace to fit with the slic pte intercooler. The rear is some thick walled dom tubing bent as close as possible to the body with some wiggle room. It will disappear with the bumper on
HelloBozos
A Bozo in Buick
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2011
Looks Tight!..Theres a brace for the front that looks like that back one,(green in the photo below)it goes under the raditors suport,the one i bought doesn't fit my car becuase my front mount intercooler tubes run that way so'll it'll have to be worked some like yours
I'm try an locate the mid-windshield to fender corner braces,if you have them,where'd you get them?
One thing...Might want to put the battery in trunk. hard left cornering/bumps lower your ride height with it there.
Enjoy!
I'm try an locate the mid-windshield to fender corner braces,if you have them,where'd you get them?
One thing...Might want to put the battery in trunk. hard left cornering/bumps lower your ride height with it there.
Enjoy!
I have those from Scot W but they are not installed. I may try and exchange them with carbon fiber ones depending on when the car is out of the body shop. And The ones that go from the front to the windshield cowl just look horrible in my opinion so I'm going to pass on those.
hello; I see your front under area pics with the SCC brace. I know you said it was a pc.of cake mod and now that's it's in does that still hold true?
And have you fitted the hood yet as I (this summer) put in a PT SLIC and my top pipe hits the liner a bit? just curious
IBBY
And have you fitted the hood yet as I (this summer) put in a PT SLIC and my top pipe hits the liner a bit? just curious
IBBY
Hello jlat; It wasnt hard. Had to cut out the cross brace and move it behind the inter-cooler, nothing crazy, I would think any muffler shop could do it. No hood yet, still being shipped but the pte intercooler is nowhere near the hood. They had to modify the bracket, it was way off and clock the turbo a bit to get it lined up right. Now it is square and everything lines up. I know pte was making poor quality brackets for awhile but supposedly their new ones are better
Back seats are coming together, this is the fitting, I love the way they look. They will be solid black with perforated inserts to match the front seats and door panels & inserts.
I posed in the audio forum but no answers. Any suggestions on a stereo, head unit, amp, speakers, subs etc?
I posed in the audio forum but no answers. Any suggestions on a stereo, head unit, amp, speakers, subs etc?
IrvJr
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Looks great. For stereo. I am partial to Alpine head units. Speakers, i have tried many. From cheap to midrange, but im betting you dont do much half assed. Amps i have always like Hifonics. For a little more money, i would find some Soundstream amps and Boston Acoustics. But im not a huge audiophile and dont need the top name brands.
Mod to the test pipe then about 75% custom from there back. It fits like sh*t, honestly I would have sent it back and had one fabbed if I didn't already powder coat it silver vein. I specifically asked the guy at gforce if it would fit a grand national because of the double exhaust humps and was told it would fit without any modifications.
The first problem is the down pipe points right at the cross member and not the exhaust hump, so a custom test pipe from the down pipe to the cat back had to be made, then everything from the mufflers back had to be remade to fit the new location. I really cant recommend them for anything grand national related, then to blatantly misrepresent to customers, yeah so good luck making it fit, sorry
HelloBozos
A Bozo in Buick
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2011
Was curious, what's the Hour Count on this car so far,an how many total hours is expected until completion ? My cars finally ready for the frame-off paint an body job with the rear custom frame mods for re-enforcement.I've been told anywhere from 60 hours to 600 hours....I'd like a more defendant answer if at all possible.this build would be great example,but on the Higher End of things...8^)
Thanks
Thanks
The problem is the "while we are at it" mentality. I probably have 250 hours in it all and all. After paint the interior and stereo will be by me so not sure on that time. Its impossible to guess depending on what level of quality you want and how creative you get. Its very easy to get carried away
Not to mention the condition of the vehicle. Once you take the frame and interior out it can completely change the plan. It doesn't even have to have a lot of miles on it. It's completely subjective and as I tell people when doing electrical work, it may take me 5 minutes or 5 days, and I charge by the hour so sometimes it can get outrages.
Not to mention the condition of the vehicle. Once you take the frame and interior out it can completely change the plan. It doesn't even have to have a lot of miles on it. It's completely subjective and as I tell people when doing electrical work, it may take me 5 minutes or 5 days, and I charge by the hour so sometimes it can get outrages.
Your right, I got very lucky with no issues besides one slightly rusty body mount on the frame.
HelloBozos
A Bozo in Buick
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2011
Good Deal,Thanks for the reply ..I have couple shops here in Orlando,FL I've scouted an couple outa state.I've got $45 to $65 an hour from them. My cars fully functional just has all the miles an weathering whoas,my car has the factory rock guard 1/4 way up the body an the undercoating job so it's in pretty good shape less anything rubber (the body mounts),I know when its apart we might find some corrosion (like the door ding guards i saw in this post) but should be minimal. i'm only going to re-enforce the rear a-arm mounts an black epoxy everything out,all my a-arms are custom an coated already, then last,a 6 point cage an Paint it with GNX kit,I'm leaving the interior as stock as possible only have to fix the famous mid upper dash split an two front seat tears.only electricail i need is new powerwindow motors put in with the fast rize kit, I'm modeling my car like 'Sledgehammer' but leaving the A/C..8^)..all my bumper fillers,flares an hood are unpainted fibroglass still
converted into this below...(but no fuel PSI gauge on the hood an stock steel bumpers)
Hood came in from Hartline today, great fit and finish on the hood.
Mods started today with the two tta vents and the areocatch hood pins. I can't say enough about how cool these hood pins are, they work like a charm and are locking. Either way this is the first trial fit, some trimming is still needed but you get the idea.
Mods started today with the two tta vents and the areocatch hood pins. I can't say enough about how cool these hood pins are, they work like a charm and are locking. Either way this is the first trial fit, some trimming is still needed but you get the idea.
