2004R Pressure at WOT

[BradTSS]

I am wondering if anyone can tell me what the pressure should be at WOT when shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd.
At 1000 rpms in park I have 76psi and 265psi at full tv (pulling on the cable), but at WOT I have 145psi and it will not shift from 1st to 2nd at 6000 rpms unless I let off of the gas. But it will shift from 2nd to 3rd at 56oo rpms with 145psi.

I have a CK Performance shift kit installed with the .555 boost valve and a CK Performance modified governor (5800-6000 1st to 2nd rpm shift point).

 

[77 cruiser]

Sounds like sucking air or the pump slide spring is weak. Mine did that until I put in the TrasGo hi rev rings & spring.

 

[TexasT]

X2 on sucking air. Is this a brf code trans? Might look at a 700r4 bottom feed filter and over filling the trans by one quart. If you have the coin a fancy deep pan and one of the "aftermarket" bottom feed setups.
The slide spring as above and you need the hard rings if you don't already have them. There are some nasty pix out there of failed rings tearing up a pump.

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[BradTSS]

Its a Monte Carlo SS trans and valve body. I do have a deep pan (2 1/2 extra quarts) and bottom feed 700R4 filter, but for this last test I only filled it full other wise I go 1 quart over full. I shoved the 700R4 filter in as far as I could, but it never really seems like it fully seated and I can see a little bit the 3 ring filter seal on one side of the filter neck. Is there a trick to make sure the filter is in all the way and the 3 ring filter seal is sealing correctly. If the pump is sucking air would the pressure stay steady or bounce around, it was staying steady at WOT?
I didn't install the pump so I don't know if the spring is correct or not...

 

[TexasT]

Are you sure you got the old seal from the filter out before you put the new one in? A lot of guys use two orings instead of of that seal that comes with the filter.
The pressure moves if the slide moves as the volume changes as the slide moves. The pressure can't be up if there isn't fluid to make the pressure. The pressure is what engages the clutches so when the pressure drops you can be sure you have the clutches slipping if you are putting any kind of power in. Just a matter of time before you smoke some clutches.

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[Steve V]

Check the boost valve for cocking in the bore. Richard Clark refuses to use anything over .500 for this reason. He showed me one that did that and I believe it was a .555.

 

[gusszgs]

When I was building my trans Dave Husek said to be careful not to crack the plastic housing of the filter when installing the neck into the bore. He also said no more than a .500 boost valve. I run 2 of the orange seals on the 700 filter.

 

[Steve V]

When I was building my trans Dave Husek said to be careful not to crack the plastic housing of the filter when installing the neck into the bore. He also said no more than a .500 boost valve. I run 2 of the orange seals on the 700 filter.

Dave does use some .531 boost valves. I have 2 of them, one in my personal car. I believe he has them machined so they can not hang up. The bigger the valve(bushing) gets the thinner the wall gets. Dave is super smart and a hell of a nice guy too.

 

[TexasT]

I've not been able to locate a .531, so I used the .500

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[Steve V]

I've not been able to locate a .531, so I used the .500

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Dave sells them.

 

[chris718]

I've not been able to locate a .531, so I used the .500

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If you use a 555 boost valve without removing the intermediate boost circuit the intermediate circuit will result in lower than normal line pressure in low 1 and low 2. The pushback of the int boost valve in these ranges on the tv boost valve causes this. Then you do a manual 1-2 and get a slip due to line being lower than in d3 or d4 range.The bigger the intermediate boost valve you use the worst it gets. This has been addressed in our kits over the last few years .

 

[BradTSS]

Put an extra o-ring along with the orange ring seal on the filter and it seems much tighter.
I push up on the boost valve and found that it had unstuck itself and was against the snap ring. But I ended up pushing too hard on it and caused it to stick again.
Put he pan back on and added an extra qt and got the same pressures and the same problem. However I was able to get the pressure to 170psi in overdrive with light acceleration, but when it shifted back into drive the pressure dropped to 150psi.
Is the response from Chris718, referring to my issue or just what you need to do if you install a .555 boost valve?
I emailed Chris718 and he thought the boost signal is not making it to the pump or the pump is bad.
Since I am not a transmission expert, what does he mean by the boost signal not making it to the pump and how do I determine if this is the issue?

 

[chris718]

With the selector lever in the OD position creep from a dead stop until a 1-2 shift occurs. THEN put your foot to the floor and answer this question: Does the transmission perform a 2-1 kickdown @ 18-20 mph@ wot? Yes or No?

 

[BradTSS]

With the selector lever in the OD position creep from a dead stop until a 1-2 shift occurs. THEN put your foot to the floor and answer this question: Does the transmission perform a 2-1 kickdown @ 18-20 mph@ wot? Yes or No?

It was almost hard to tell if it did the 2-1 kickdown, since it was so light. One time I could not tell if it did it but the other two times it felt like it did it but it was very hard to tell and the speed was in the 15-18 range the one time and the other time is was 12ish.
Not sure if this is important or not, but at cruising speed in overdrive. The pressure is very reactive to throttle movement, up to 165ish, but drops to 140-150 at higher rpms in other gears.

 

[chris718]

The existence of a 2-1 kd@ wot verifies tv cable is fully extended and that the tv plunger is opening the wot detent port. The inner tv valve, tv limit vale and line bias valves in valve body and pressure regulator assembly in the oil pump must all be checked next.

 

[BradTSS]

The existence of a 2-1 kd@ wot verifies tv cable is fully extended and that the tv plunger is opening the wot detent port. The inner tv valve, tv limit vale and line bias valves in valve body and pressure regulator assembly in the oil pump must all be checked next.

chris718,
When you had my valve body and it's components at your shop this summer, to up the shift points. Did it shift fine for you?
Does your tech manual have the necessary information it for me to follow to determine if the above things you mentioned to check are ok or are the cause of the issue?
You wouldn't happen to want to take a vacation to central Wisconsin and have a look at it?