I new the billet rollers had issues with premature cam gear wear because of the lack of oiling but have any of you seen wear on a ductile roller? The entire motor was new 60-80 miles ago, including the cam sensor. Now we are still trying to get it to run and Norbs noticed my Cam Sync logs were showing low numbers. So I adjusted the cam sensor and then noticed the numbers on the XFI are jumping between 106 and 69. Not good! So I have yet to pull the cam sensor but I'm imagining I'm going to see a worn out cam sensor gear. Or, at least a worn out something in there. Anybody have any ideas?
215/220 ductile roller 60-80miles Stage 2 offcenter cam gear wear??
- Thread starter jdpolzin
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What your probably seeing is timing chain and camshaft flex.
So the chain is too tight? The odd thing is that when he car idling (poorly), numbers will be at, lets say 95 where it's supposed to be. Then I rev it, the number drops to lets say 70. It stay there until I rev it again, then it'll go to lets say 105, stay there while idling, then rev again, it'll go to lets say 89 and stay there while idling. I guess, in my mind if it was just simply flex, it would bounce right back to the proper setting once load is off the motor????
Yes its the standard nose. The cam kit is a FullThrottle set up. Could this be a prolem with to much play and not a tight enough clearence on the cam button?
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With the bearing/shim cam button, if the brg locks up, the hard race that faces the back of the cover, will wear into the cover, creating excessive end play. Being the back of the cover is also the back of the water pump, going far enuf, will fill the pan w/ coolant.
That is why some folks, use the rear mtd cam retainer. I think Nick Micale uses them.
That is why some folks, use the rear mtd cam retainer. I think Nick Micale uses them.
BEATAV8
The Engine Whisperer
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Hey Jer, I dealt with the wear issue on a billet cam and when it got sloppy it would make a tapping noise.
I have a 215/220 which probably has well over 1500 miles miles on it now with relatively high oil pressure and it's been nice and quiet (aftermarket front cover). The only issue with it was the thrust face. I had to send this cam back to COMP to have the thrust face fixed, it was too thick and set the cam too far forward in the engine when I was working on assembly.
On a good clean setup the cam sensor should practically install itself, just drop right in without any fuss. If it's hard to install then something is amiss.
I have a 215/220 which probably has well over 1500 miles miles on it now with relatively high oil pressure and it's been nice and quiet (aftermarket front cover). The only issue with it was the thrust face. I had to send this cam back to COMP to have the thrust face fixed, it was too thick and set the cam too far forward in the engine when I was working on assembly.
On a good clean setup the cam sensor should practically install itself, just drop right in without any fuss. If it's hard to install then something is amiss.
m233roller
Banned
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Jeremy, what was your end play on the cam when you set it up? Also when the machine work was done did it need a shorter chain? I NEVER had any luck with those damn high volume front covers. I had one that was way off on the cam sensor alignment and I was eating up cam sensor gears. You know what I did with that sob. Bought a new GM cover , did all the mods to it and NO more cam sensor gear problems and I have excellent oil pressure. You pull the cam sensor and check it and if that isn't it I'd pull the valve covers, all the plugs and unbolt the rocker assemblys. so the valve train is unloaded and then you can go down threw the cam sensor hole with a long screw driver and check the end play on the cam by moving it back and forth. I agree with Steve, when all is right cam sensor should go right in.
OK, I will check those ideas out. Mike, I didnt build this motor, Mike Booher built it for me. I couldnt tell you what the end play was or if the timing chain length was correct or not. Mike's built plenty of these motors so I do have faith that it was set correctly.
Steve, I dont have any tapping noise at all. I wouldnt have known there was a problem if Norbs wouldnt have caught it.
I've been trying to get this car running for 5 years now. Had it running 3 years ago and then have been fighting problems with the rear end and transmission ever since. Now that I got those sorted out, I should have known something would be up with the motor now!
If I remember correctly, it's been long enough that my memory is foggy, the cam sensor was a bitch to get it. I'll find out more tomorrow. I have a gut feeling this front cover is junk but I took FullThrottles advice that they were the best top quality pieces out there. Although it has almost no miles on it, I've read enough bad things about them that my gut instink is pointing me in that direction.
Steve, I dont have any tapping noise at all. I wouldnt have known there was a problem if Norbs wouldnt have caught it.
I've been trying to get this car running for 5 years now. Had it running 3 years ago and then have been fighting problems with the rear end and transmission ever since. Now that I got those sorted out, I should have known something would be up with the motor now!
If I remember correctly, it's been long enough that my memory is foggy, the cam sensor was a bitch to get it. I'll find out more tomorrow. I have a gut feeling this front cover is junk but I took FullThrottles advice that they were the best top quality pieces out there. Although it has almost no miles on it, I've read enough bad things about them that my gut instink is pointing me in that direction.
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This is not meant to slam Mike at Full Throttle, but we had MANY problems with aftermarket timing covers that were machined off-shore as they were the only ones available at that time. I stopped using them because some were machined so badly, the cam sensor would not engage the cam gear.
A used stock cover was preferred over a new aftermarket cover.
Fortunately TA decided to follow the path of their V-8 455 timing cover, and machine and supply one for our turbo V-6's that is being produced to even closer tolerances than factory specs.
I am not posting this as a commercial for TA, but to let you know a solution, if in fact your cover is junk like you said.
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Nick, who makes/sells the rear of the cam endplay kits?? AIRC, you had mentioned them, some yrs ago..You still use them??
RmvBfrFlght
Well-Known Member
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Here is a thread that shows two different cam gear oiling methods:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/distributor-gear.182964/
RemoveBeforeFlight
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/distributor-gear.182964/
RemoveBeforeFlight
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We use the Danny Bee set up on billet cams, but I should still have a cam rear retainer kit on my shelf.
cdsttype said:
This is a great idea I never thought of. I'd rotate the crank a few degrees in each direction of rotation and try and turn the cam sensor in it's opposite direction of rotation. That would simulate the backlash that is present
