28-30psi with grainger valve?

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I updated my sig to help others see what I'm working with. Obviously I still have a lot of tuning to do and this turbo is a lot slower to get up on boost from an idle but once it hit 4psi it it boosted like a banshee...COOOLLL!!!!!!:D
The alchy should also help cool the charge at the higher boost levels with the stock longblock. I just need some more time to work on it and get the boost up.

ks
 
A loooong story short - This g-valve just isn't cutting it anymore. I can't get it to monitor 30psi of boost with a crap. I set it up on the bench with my wg actuator and boost gauge to 28psi and it only gave me 25psi on the test run. I finally wired the whole thing closed like we4Mateo mentioned above to see what boost this turbo would produce and kept a VERY close eye on the boost gauge during the first run and it gave me a rock solid 30psi through second and high gear and DAMN that's what I've been wanting!! BTW, this was all done on 91 oct and alchy and the knock detector never went off the whole time.

The second run pegged the f'n boost gauge and blew the up pipe off and destroyed my hoodliner from the air coming out of the pipe. The motor is just fine so now I'm waiting for a new boost controller and new hoses/clamps to arrive so I can try it again.

I also ordered a Mityvac pump to come up with a way to get an accurate method for bench testing this system before making a high boost run.

I'm also looking for a good headliner if anyone has one for sale:)

ks
 
A loooong story short - This g-valve just isn't cutting it anymore. I can't get it to monitor 30psi of boost with a crap. I set it up on the bench with my wg actuator and boost gauge to 28psi and it only gave me 25psi on the test run. I finally wired the whole thing closed like we4Mateo mentioned above to see what boost this turbo would produce and kept a VERY close eye on the boost gauge during the first run and it gave me a rock solid 30psi through second and high gear and DAMN that's what I've been wanting!! BTW, this was all done on 91 oct and alchy and the knock detector never went off the whole time.

The second run pegged the f'n boost gauge and blew the up pipe off and destroyed my hoodliner from the air coming out of the pipe. The motor is just fine so now I'm waiting for a new boost controller and new hoses/clamps to arrive so I can try it again.

I also ordered a Mityvac pump to come up with a way to get an accurate method for bench testing this system before making a high boost run.

I'm also looking for a good headliner if anyone has one for sale:)

ks

you need springs on your wastegate.

Hopefully you didn't bend a head gasket...... :)


Bob
 
You can Unthread the adjuster on your actuator and shorten the threads on the rod with a hack saw or cut off wheel. Then thread the adjuster back on. This will add a lot of tension when shortened. You will limit the travel because the actuator will be pulled on so hard. It's just about like wiring shut. I observed several different setups on the dyno and most turbos could be maximized this way. I used to wire my wastegate closed in the late 90's. Everyone thought you would blow up over 22psi. I agreed with them and kept running 28-30psi. Left them scratching their asses wondering why I was half a second faster.
 
You can Unthread the adjuster on your actuator and shorten the threads on the rod with a hack saw or cut off wheel. Then thread the adjuster back on. This will add a lot of tension when shortened. You will limit the travel because the actuator will be pulled on so hard. It's just about like wiring shut. I observed several different setups on the dyno and most turbos could be maximized this way. I used to wire my wastegate closed in the late 90's. Everyone thought you would blow up over 22psi. I agreed with them and kept running 28-30psi. Left them scratching their asses wondering why I was half a second faster.

Yea, I did that years ago and right now it takes two hands and solid footing in order to pull it to the flapper valve. I thought this would have been tight enough but maybe not.

I added another spring tonight and with the g-valve connected I went for a VERY cautious run and it briefly went over 30psi again so I shut it down. I backed the g-valve way off and the boost went back to 25psi but the boost was acting goofy bouncing around +/- 3psi so I shut it down. Hopefully I didn't hurt the head gaskets yesterday b/c I don't want to break that factory seal they have. I'll wait until the new controller arrives then I'll check all the vacuum hoses again then test it.

ks
 
Update:

I read where KevinB made a comment about how well he liked his BC-HPBC boost controller so I decided to try one:
http://www.turboxsparts.com/84.html

The instructions suck, IMO, and I had to PM KevinB about how to adjust it but after a couple quick adjustments the boost is now set at 29psi and rock steady and far more predictable than my Grainger Valve!

Yea, this little unit cost a bit more but when I'm pushing this much boost I wanted to make sure I had something that was proven and that would be more reliable than what I had.

If you're wanting better boost control then I definitely recommend this unit:D

Also, I took advice and added an extra spring to help hold the wastegate flapper valve closed and that worked great!

Thanks for all your help!
Regards
Kevin Slaby
 
Update:


Also, I took advice and added an extra spring to help hold the wastegate flapper valve closed and that worked great!

This is what is allowing you to produce 29 lbs of boost. The controller is what allows you to maintain a steady number.
 
Is this controller the same thing as the RJC Boost controller?? And what is your boost in 1st 2nd 3rd ??? Is it a consistent 29 in all gears?

Fairly close but it looks a lot nicer and has two adjustment areas. One for course adjustment and one for fine adjustments.

I haven't had a lot of test time before I blew a HG but the boost needle would bounce around between 28 and 29 psi in High gear with street tires on it so 1st and second gear pulls were worthless. When I put the slicks on it the boost dropped to 26psi in ALL gears and when I tried to up the boost using the course adjustment (1/4 of a turn) I spiked the boost gage and blew the HG's.

ks
 
Fairly close but it looks a lot nicer and has two adjustment areas. One for course adjustment and one for fine adjustments.

I haven't had a lot of test time before I blew a HG but the boost needle would bounce around between 28 and 29 psi in High gear with street tires on it so 1st and second gear pulls were worthless. When I put the slicks on it the boost dropped to 26psi in ALL gears and when I tried to up the boost using the course adjustment (1/4 of a turn) I spiked the boost gage and blew the HG's.

ks

How much can stock head gaskets take before blowing one?
 
Fairly close but it looks a lot nicer and has two adjustment areas. One for course adjustment and one for fine adjustments.

I haven't had a lot of test time before I blew a HG but the boost needle would bounce around between 28 and 29 psi in High gear with street tires on it so 1st and second gear pulls were worthless. When I put the slicks on it the boost dropped to 26psi in ALL gears and when I tried to up the boost using the course adjustment (1/4 of a turn) I spiked the boost gage and blew the HG's.

ks

Would I gain anything from going from a adjustable boost controller in the car by my right leg for quick easy adjustments to the RJC unit? I'm not running the solenoid anymore.
 
On a stock long bock, around 30psi. Some have gone more, some less.
I’ve never run one before so I couldn’t tell ya.

KS
 
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