83 Regal into Turbo
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The bearings (bushings) are the same regaurdless Matt. The differences are in the parts attached to the center section. Post this in the turbo thread for later readers please. I want to make sure any one that reads it can do the work or at least can understand what's involved to do the mod.
Mr. Upholsterer
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Just a few more stupid questions, do you think that the pistons and rods in my stock 3.8 1983 can handle the boost without saying good by?? I see that GN use Pink Rods and their piston tops are much thicker than my stock ones...I can't imagine buick actually putting in forged rods..at best I am thinking they are only heat treated...whats you think..
Just a few more stupid questions, do you think that the pistons and rods in my stock 3.8 1983 can handle the boost without saying good by?? I see that GN use Pink Rods and their piston tops are much thicker than my stock ones...I can't imagine buick actually putting in forged rods..at best I am thinking they are only heat treated...whats you think..
WarWagon
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YES they will hold up to stock boost and NO detonation. They will hold up to above stock boost "to a point" With NO detonation. They will NOT hold up with large amounts detonation or frequent small amount of detonation.
Mr. Upholsterer
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Since I won't be racing this thing maybe I will be OK..Will keep an ear out for that pinging..
One more ...On that stock turbo setup off a 79 that I have...I am guessing that there was a Rochester quad on it..Now how was this carb any different than any other carb on a non tubro engine?? I see all kind of vacumn outlets on this plendum housing...does it make a differece as to which ones I hook up to the carb since I mean they are just about in the same area?? Getting ready to clean it up a little and maybe put a little shine on it too.. I will be using a holley instead of the rochester.
Since I won't be racing this thing maybe I will be OK..Will keep an ear out for that pinging..
One more ...On that stock turbo setup off a 79 that I have...I am guessing that there was a Rochester quad on it..Now how was this carb any different than any other carb on a non tubro engine?? I see all kind of vacumn outlets on this plendum housing...does it make a differece as to which ones I hook up to the carb since I mean they are just about in the same area?? Getting ready to clean it up a little and maybe put a little shine on it too.. I will be using a holley instead of the rochester.
WarWagon
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We need Charlie to chime in here. The differences from the turbo carb aside from being a feedback computer controlled carb it has an electronic solenoid to bump up "enrichen" the fuel mixture when the load is on and boost is up.
WarWagon
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The Holley will work great, the only thing needed done for the holley to work as a drawthru is to get the power valve referenced to the intake manifold or turbo foot.
Mr. Upholsterer
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My thoughts exactly...I did post a diagram of how Holley suggested i do it...go back about 10 posts...or even better yet I will try to attach what they sent me.. i am still trying to figure it out..where to hook up that vac line anyway ....hope the attachment comes through..
My thoughts exactly...I did post a diagram of how Holley suggested i do it...go back about 10 posts...or even better yet I will try to attach what they sent me.. i am still trying to figure it out..where to hook up that vac line anyway ....hope the attachment comes through..
Mr. Upholsterer
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try again..
try again..
Mr. Upholsterer
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Its on page 2....holley says to connect the vacumn line to the lower intake...I will have to wait till I get the manifold from Dr. F. to see if there is a vacumn port there... check out that pdf file I attached on page 2..
Its on page 2....holley says to connect the vacumn line to the lower intake...I will have to wait till I get the manifold from Dr. F. to see if there is a vacumn port there... check out that pdf file I attached on page 2..
One of the ports on the turbo carbs is routed thru the PECV valve (Power Enrichment Control Valve). It richens the mixture at 60-80% load.
Pretty sure there are a bunch of posts here about them.
WarWagon
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Yes yes there is ONE port of the intake manifold and it's right on top of one of the runners " don't remember which one" you can get a vac source there, OR you can also get the source at the foot of the turbo Most already have a port with a block off already in it that you can just unscrew and put a nipple on, sometimes they are not drilled tapped and plugged from the factory but you can do it yourself, OR Tee off of the nipple that runs the wastegate it's the same source.
Mr. Upholsterer
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Thanks, I think the way Holley suggested the hookup actually works the Power Valve much more than it is normally used thus giving it the extra fuel under a high boost or vac...I will have to play with it and do some experimenting. I think that by the time the boost starts building those huge back throttle plates should be opening... I believe they kick in when the pedal is halfway down...can always replace the jets in them Too.. Should be fun playing with...at this point just getting the car to move under its own power would be great. From what I have read the best Fuel Air Ratio for the tubro is around 12.5 to 1....and I think normal low load should be around 14.5 to one.. But hey...what the hell do I know...I just read that stuff and have no praticle knowledge on that..
Thanks, I think the way Holley suggested the hookup actually works the Power Valve much more than it is normally used thus giving it the extra fuel under a high boost or vac...I will have to play with it and do some experimenting. I think that by the time the boost starts building those huge back throttle plates should be opening... I believe they kick in when the pedal is halfway down...can always replace the jets in them Too.. Should be fun playing with...at this point just getting the car to move under its own power would be great. From what I have read the best Fuel Air Ratio for the tubro is around 12.5 to 1....and I think normal low load should be around 14.5 to one.. But hey...what the hell do I know...I just read that stuff and have no praticle knowledge on that..
A quick search of the forum led to this excellent link:
petesbuick.html
My explanation:
Most carbs have a circuit to adjust fuel mixture based on load. The Q-jet uses a metering rod/power piston setup. At cruise or deceleration, there is a lot of vacuum that will pull the metering rods into the main jets to lean the mixture. At WOT, vacuum is near zero, the metering rods move out of the main jets, and the mixture is rich.
Our draw-thrus will lean out at 60-80% part throttle.....there is still enough vacuum at the power piston port to keep the metering rods too lean. The PECV valve will switch the vacuum signal to atmosphere (zero vacuum) so the metering rods will go full rich.
Adam...the Holley uses the Power valve to do the enrichment, right? So that should also be run thru a similar vacuum switch?
You just missed this turbo Q-jet auction. Good deal!:
REBUILT QUADRAJET CARBURETOR CHEVY BUICK TURBO 3.8L V6 : eBay Motors (item 270518083161 end time Jan-29-10 11:50:48 PST)
petesbuick.html
My explanation:
Most carbs have a circuit to adjust fuel mixture based on load. The Q-jet uses a metering rod/power piston setup. At cruise or deceleration, there is a lot of vacuum that will pull the metering rods into the main jets to lean the mixture. At WOT, vacuum is near zero, the metering rods move out of the main jets, and the mixture is rich.
Our draw-thrus will lean out at 60-80% part throttle.....there is still enough vacuum at the power piston port to keep the metering rods too lean. The PECV valve will switch the vacuum signal to atmosphere (zero vacuum) so the metering rods will go full rich.
Adam...the Holley uses the Power valve to do the enrichment, right? So that should also be run thru a similar vacuum switch?
You just missed this turbo Q-jet auction. Good deal!:
REBUILT QUADRAJET CARBURETOR CHEVY BUICK TURBO 3.8L V6 : eBay Motors (item 270518083161 end time Jan-29-10 11:50:48 PST)
That's what I read too. I just got a wideband A/F gauge. Went with the Innovate LM-2 handheld. I got the full kit for $311, but the basic can be had for about $275. Full kit has datalogger and scan tool too.
A basic sender-gauge, Model LC-1 with UD gauge, can be had for under $200.
Put on my '66 Special (300 V-8) and played with it. I was rich under cruise and idle. Put some fatter metering rods in it and it ran rough with a A/F near 16. changed rods again and it's 14-15 at cruise. Hope it helps my mpg!
Mr. Upholsterer
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What you are talking about here is Vacumn operated secondaries....That is the carb that holley recomends to use.. I orginally put one of these on my motor, it was a 750CFm and it really drowned my motor...way to big of the car.. not to mention the carb self destructed because I had to boil it out so long to remove all the crud that it destroyed the carb....It was a cheepie I purchased on E-bay...at least I got good fuel bowels... If I would of had my choice I would of went with the vacumn operated secondaries...but you know that is really like an automatic trans...it does the thinking for you.. I think that a mechanically operated secondaries would take a little longer to setup but then be like rock solid...That vacumn stuff gets crud in it and sticks and is sluggish and has a lot of problems....price you have to pay to get lazy man...
What you are talking about here is Vacumn operated secondaries....That is the carb that holley recomends to use.. I orginally put one of these on my motor, it was a 750CFm and it really drowned my motor...way to big of the car.. not to mention the carb self destructed because I had to boil it out so long to remove all the crud that it destroyed the carb....It was a cheepie I purchased on E-bay...at least I got good fuel bowels... If I would of had my choice I would of went with the vacumn operated secondaries...but you know that is really like an automatic trans...it does the thinking for you.. I think that a mechanically operated secondaries would take a little longer to setup but then be like rock solid...That vacumn stuff gets crud in it and sticks and is sluggish and has a lot of problems....price you have to pay to get lazy man...
That Holley advise posted here;
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/2397486-post65.html
You will still need to route that line thru a switched vacuum thingy like the PECV. Routing it back to the manifold will screw it up in a draw-thru application.
P.S. don't believe me until Adam confirms!!
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/2397486-post65.html
You will still need to route that line thru a switched vacuum thingy like the PECV. Routing it back to the manifold will screw it up in a draw-thru application.
P.S. don't believe me until Adam confirms!!
Mr. Upholsterer
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I was biding on that carb ... I dropped off at $31.50 I figured by the time I bought a rebuild kit and payed for shipping I would be in DS.... I paid about $100. just for the rebuild kit on my carb...and that was my cost...Normally $150. This if the 750 CFM vac Secondaries carb I have...the door stop now.
so I am just going to transfer over all the innards and run with it.. Most of the inside stuff is the same...The carb I have now is in pretty good condition so It doesn't need too much to get it squirting nice again.. Use to do a lot of work on rochester carbs....what a pain in the a___...Its like a balancing act to get that top on and get those long gets to seat down in those little holes.. The holley is much eaiser to work on.. and more adjustable too..
I was biding on that carb ... I dropped off at $31.50 I figured by the time I bought a rebuild kit and payed for shipping I would be in DS.... I paid about $100. just for the rebuild kit on my carb...and that was my cost...Normally $150. This if the 750 CFM vac Secondaries carb I have...the door stop now.
so I am just going to transfer over all the innards and run with it.. Most of the inside stuff is the same...The carb I have now is in pretty good condition so It doesn't need too much to get it squirting nice again.. Use to do a lot of work on rochester carbs....what a pain in the a___...Its like a balancing act to get that top on and get those long gets to seat down in those little holes.. The holley is much eaiser to work on.. and more adjustable too..
