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83 T-Type stock turbo, new or rebuild? turbo newbie :(

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charlief1 said:
Call Gpop and talk to them. That will help you get the right kit. One thing to look at is the exhaust (turbine) housing. There's a number cast in it and it will either be .60 or .80. You want the one with the .60 on it for better performance.
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the hot air turbine wheel is a direct swap also isn't it?
 
ok talked to gpop and ordered up my kit! should come in next week as well as my carb rebuild kit... so i'll have a nice weekend of rebuilding ahead. a buddy told me that soaking parts in ammonia is a great way to clean them and affordable compared to the carb dip... any thoughts?

i'm confused, if i'm only swapping the exhaust side housing and nothing else, will i need to have it re-balanced? also i've been studying up a little, bought stp oil treatment for the bearings upon reassembly but read to use lucas assembly lube... will the stp be good enough or should i order some of the lucas? i've also purchased some red loctite for the bolts and i have the gasket eliminator coming in, but i'm still not quite sure where to apply the gasket eliminator? i've heard all gasket surfaces are fine to assemble without any rtv sealer or anything is that the best way? any other things that i might be forgetting?

i really appreciate all the help so far, thanks! you cats have saved this t-type for certain!
 
Mark the wheels so you can reassemble them in the correct orientation. The carbon on the ex side will require sand or glass bead blasting to remove it. Replace the bearing housing.
 
Be very careful of using amonia to soak it in. If it's left in to long then it will start eating the metal and is dangerous. Back in college we had a guy that wanted to overhaul his carb and started it soaking in 409. He used a big pot and started on friday evening. One of his buddies came over with beer and of course you know what happened.:rolleyes: When he got up the next day there wasn't much left of the carb.;)
 
charlief1 said:
Be very careful of using amonia to soak it in. If it's left in to long then it will start eating the metal and is dangerous. Back in college we had a guy that wanted to overhaul his carb and started it soaking in 409. He used a big pot and started on friday evening. One of his buddies came over with beer and of course you know what happened.:rolleyes: When he got up the next day there wasn't much left of the carb.;)
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It's funny you say that Charles because 409 glass and surface cleaner is the best thing I've ever used on windows. Takes smoke film off with ease also
 
Thanks gents! does the bearing housing come with the complete kit from gpop, i don't see it listed? if not where would i pick one of those up? my buddy said soak in ammonia for about 6 hours... is that too long? should i take the ammonia back and pick something else up to soak? if so what would be best?
 
Order it from g pop with the rebuild kit
 
nothingman said:
Thanks gents! does the bearing housing come with the complete kit from gpop, i don't see it listed? if not where would i pick one of those up? my buddy said soak in ammonia for about 6 hours... is that too long? should i take the ammonia back and pick something else up to soak? if so what would be best?
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As long as you keep an eye on it you should be fine, just don't leave it alone.
 
after checking both exhaust side housings i think they say a/r .83 am i looking in the right spot charlie? inspecting both exhaust side and compressor housings along with the center oiling section i think i want to rebuild the turbo that was originally on my car... but i'm worried because my turbines and shaft in the original have ALOT more play in them than the other turbo setup that i just bought... is there any way i can use just the turbines and shaft out of the turbo setup i just bought in my original setup for the rebuild, without having to get it re-balanced?

i've uploaded some pics for reference on the housings and exhaust side turbines.
2012-09-22_17-46-41_827.jpg2012-09-22_17-53-54_255.jpg2012-09-22_17-49-30_969.jpg2012-09-22_17-53-29_429.jpg
 
Looks like both of them are .83 AR which means they're earlier ones. You might try cleaning up the really rusty one and see if you can see it better though. The center sections are interchangable and if you go to the how to section there's a really good post on how to rebuild one from start to finish.;) It's much easier than you think and you don't have to rebalance it if you follow all the directions.
 
oh crap, where can i get new housings? can i reuse any of the housings, exhaust side, compressor side or center oiling section? i sure hope so... i'm not sure how much more money i can throw at this, i'm on kind of a tight budget :(
 
nothingman said:
oh crap, where can i get new housings? can i reuse any of the housings, exhaust side, compressor side or center oiling section? i sure hope so... i'm not sure how much more money i can throw at this, i'm on kind of a tight budget :(
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The bearing housing. Anyone who sells kits will have them. $85 shipped priority, $80 parcel post. If youre on a budget with these cars you are not going to be driving it much.
 
oh, that i can afford heh. now if i'm understanding correctly, that is the whole center section where the oil line hooks up right. with installing a new housing will i have to have anything re-balanced or just make note of where the original housing was clocked with the others and try to match it up?

unfortunately was not planning for this car, just ran into some slob that owned it. he was trashing it inside and out. not keeping up with repairs, let the turbo go, oil pan and rear main were leaking so the bottom of the car is coated in oil... spark plugs, wires, gaskets all in bad shape... but he needed the money so i picked up the car hoping to save what was left. i have always appreciated the buick turbo cars and wanted to own one but if i do get too deep i would of course sell it just hoping to get a little more than my $1500 because of all the time and money i've put in so far.
 
If you go to NADAguides.com you can look up the value on the car and then go to hagerty and you'll be suprised how much it's worth in good condition. I think you did pretty good for $1500.;)
 
nothingman said:
oh, that i can afford heh. now if i'm understanding correctly, that is the whole center section where the oil line hooks up right. with installing a new housing will i have to have anything re-balanced or just make note of where the original housing was clocked with the others and try to match it up?

unfortunately was not planning for this car, just ran into some slob that owned it. he was trashing it inside and out. not keeping up with repairs, let the turbo go, oil pan and rear main were leaking so the bottom of the car is coated in oil... spark plugs, wires, gaskets all in bad shape... but he needed the money so i picked up the car hoping to save what was left. i have always appreciated the buick turbo cars and wanted to own one but if i do get too deep i would of course sell it just hoping to get a little more than my $1500 because of all the time and money i've put in so far.
Click to expand...

It's just an empty bearing housing. You need to add in the rebuild parts and assemble it. You install your marked off wheels and torque the nut. You need to de carbonize the turbine oil slinger near the ex wheel or it will have oil control issues. It's quite a bit more work than any of the simple articles mention if you blueprint everything about it. access to a bead blast cabinet is needed to de carbonize. The carbon is baked on.
 
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