A/C compressor won't kick on

[GNRick]

I could see some freon die on outside of compressor. I bought a stop leak kit which says to make sure there is some freon in the system first. So I checked the charge on the drier and it was empty. Hooked up a can of freon and it only emptied about 1/2 the can. Gauge showed in the red (over filled). So I let some out of the drier. Now I found out that if I jump the connections together in the black plug on the drier, the compressor will kick on and circulate the freon. I put a paper clip in the plug but nothing happened. Compressor did not kick on. I also tried grounding the plug to the fender and now the interior fan doesn't come on. I hope I just blew a fuse. Any help would be appreciated before I blow something up.

 

[GNRick]

Anybody?

 

[hootowl]

I could see some freon die on outside of compressor. I bought a stop leak kit which says to make sure there is some freon in the system first. So I checked the charge on the drier and it was empty. Hooked up a can of freon and it only emptied about 1/2 the can. Gauge showed in the red (over filled). So I let some out of the drier. Now I found out that if I jump the connections together in the black plug on the drier, the compressor will kick on and circulate the freon. I put a paper clip in the plug but nothing happened. Compressor did not kick on. I also tried grounding the plug to the fender and now the interior fan doesn't come on. I hope I just blew a fuse. Any help would be appreciated before I blow something up.

The power for the AC compressor clutch and the interior fan (lower 3 speeds) both come thru the A/C fuse in the fuse block, 25A. Probably blew it when grounding the plug on the drier to the fender. That switch on the drier opens if the system pressure is below 25 PSI and stops the compressor clutch from coming on. It is a floating switch with neither pin going to ground. The A/C cutout relay is also in the compressor clutch circuit. It is controlled by the ECM and normally turns off the A/C at or near WOT. That relay is on the right fender above the fender well next to the ESC module. There is also a high pressure switch in the A/C clutch circuit that opens if the pressure is too high (> 430 PSI) and kills power to the A/C clutch (probably not your problem unless it doesn't close properly).

Paper clip may not have made good contact when you tried that. Also it would be informative to know what the actual pressure is in the system. Autozone or Advanced will loan a set of gauges if you don't have them or can't borrow a set.

Hope this helps, Mel

 

[GNRick]

The power for the AC compressor clutch and the interior fan (lower 3 speeds) both come thru the A/C fuse in the fuse block, 25A. Probably blew it when grounding the plug on the drier to the fender. That switch on the drier opens if the system pressure is below 25 PSI and stops the compressor clutch from coming on. It is a floating switch with neither pin going to ground. The A/C cutout relay is also in the compressor clutch circuit. It is controlled by the ECM and normally turns off the A/C at or near WOT. That relay is on the right fender above the fender well next to the ESC module. There is also a high pressure switch in the A/C clutch circuit that opens if the pressure is too high (> 430 PSI) and kills power to the A/C clutch (probably not your problem unless it doesn't close properly).

Paper clip may not have made good contact when you tried that. Also it would be informative to know what the actual pressure is in the system. Autozone or Advanced will loan a set of gauges if you don't have them or can't borrow a set.

Hope this helps, Mel

Mel- thanks for the reply. I couldn't find a set of gauges for loan, went to mechanic and he said not to use the stop leak as it will mess up his freon machine. I think Challengermike said the same thing. So I decided to just shop for a new compressor since I am out of options. Found one on Ebay for $110 plus $20 shipping, but I can get one at Advance for about $130 after their 20% off discount. I will just expect two seasons out of it and be pissed off again when it fails.

 

[87-WE2]

what about changing over to 134 if you're replacing the compressor?
I'm looking into doing that since my a/c doesn't work. the previous owner told me the freon leaks out of the system after about 8 weeks.

In TX, I'd have to fill the thing 6 times a year!!! Freon's expensive and plus I don't want to be the one to single handedly finish depleting the ozone layer!!

I've not looked that deeply into a 134 conversion. I've just seen that some people say to change the compressor, hoses, and drier; but then again some say not to worry about it and just use the originals, but be sure to get all the oil out before using the ester oil that goes with 134.

Not trying to hijack your thread, just wondered if you considered a switch to 134.

 

[st1nger]

a/c

harbor freight is like 50 buck for a set of gages if you are changing compressor or componets drain system into cold water remove compressor remove hoses drain oil over night remove hose from condenser remove all o rings in whole system.
slow leaks is most likely o rings, napa best choices, take o rings and replace with new should be green reinstall rings add ester oil to compressor part store will be able to tell you how many oz's hook up gages start motor turn on a/c jump switch compressor should engage if not check a/c fan relay also check compresser and see if clutch turns freely

 

[challengermike]

It should take way more than 1 can,is it possiable someone used stop leak in it before?I think if you are going to jump it you jump the plug on the dryer to make it kick on.tricks it to thinking it has a full charge,it may suck it in then.It wouldnt be the first time i have seen stop leak plug it up so you cant fill it.