A/C Question, R134a Conversion

[grass doctor]

Since 134a is being phased out like r-12 was, it is going to become very expensive. I'm stocking up on it now.


There was a big explosion and fire in Louisiana the other day at a plant that makes ethylene glycol so I
wonder if this will make anti-freeze in short supply even though they have a plant in Canada.

what are you talking about ...no one runs the ac in a Turbo Buick....damnnnn....you ssssslackin on me

 

[grass doctor]

Propane KOOLS the best ...if you have the balls to run it !!....LOL

 

[erikelvis]

I’m going to have to do this eventually. No way I’m driving around in 90 muggy heat without ac

 

[KC87]

what are you talking about ...no one runs the ac in a Turbo Buick....damnnnn....you ssssslackin on me

Exactly! That's why I had my seats done in heavy black vinyl and ride around with no pants
or underwear on a very hot day.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Exactly! That's why I had my seats done in heavy black vinyl and ride around with no pants
or underwear on a very hot day.

DAMN!! That would be a sight that couldn't be unseen!

 

[granitestategn]

No MSDS on the listing, but they note it's flammable.

It's probably propane. No thanks.

It is flammable for sure. I bought a case of it years ago and my buddy and I have run it in several vehicles with no ill effects yet. I still have a couple of cans of R12 so that's what I put in the GN, if it needs it. A/C still blows cold enough. Last I checked I drive around with a bunch of flammable stuff in my gas tank. Flammable A/C refrigerant in a closed system doesn't bother me. If it leaks out, it would be in small amounts over time. Unlikely to get to any LEL. Pretty sure I have a bomb big enough to level my house under my grill. I don't lose sleep over that, either.

 

[erikelvis]

Ok so I’ve slowly been gathering parts to redo the system.
Have
New dryer and one of the 134 switches. Orifice tube.
To do it with the least chance of failure I guess I should replace..
New lines, compressor, and condenser.
I’m assuming that’s a good start. Any other odd ball stuff?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

That's how I'd do it.
A multipass condenser.
If the lines are the originals, I'd do them, too. On my last rebuild once I flexed them, they leaked.

 

[N2BUICK]

Who is doing the work? Who will be recharging the system? Whom ever it is they must have a good vacuum pump and a micron gage.
Just me, being from the AC/Heat/Refrigeration industry.

 

[erikelvis]

I bought a whole, I guess you’d say, repair kit?? Gauges, lines, and pump. I’m willing to give it a shot.

 

[N2BUICK]

What kit did you buy? Is this something other than the refrigerant lines, condenser, accumulator, and orifice? Is the pump you refer to the cars compressor or the tool, a vacuum pump ?

 

[erikelvis]

What kit did you buy? Is this something other than the refrigerant lines, condenser, accumulator, and orifice? Is the pump you refer to the cars compressor or the tool, a vacuum pump ?

This thing? I’m assuming that’s what I needed. I’m sure not the greatest kit…

 

[N2BUICK]

Nice kit, actually has a vacuum pump.
Your model appears to have an electronic leak detector.
It doesn't have any other means to tell vacuum, other than the gauges.
Good luck

 

[erikelvis]

Nice kit, actually has a vacuum pump.
Your model appears to have an electronic leak detector.
It doesn't have any other means to tell vacuum, other than the gauges.
Good luck

Is there a better way to gauge vacuum or does the kit seem sufficient?

 

[N2BUICK]

The only way to tell if your system pressure is below zero lbs, would be to view the low side gauge. It has two scales, Pressure and vacuum.
Buying a meter to gauge how deep of a vacuum you have achieved, is several hundred dollars. A micron tool is probably over kill on automotive work. Millions of repairs and recharging have been done with the gauges in your kit.
When you get to the point of evacuation, your going to be like the majority of people who see the low side gauge is pegged out at 30", and run the vacuum pump 30 more minutes, just to be safe. This is false thinking, but very normal.
Hats off to you for atleast investing in a vacuum pump. Feel free to contact me if you have questions.

 

[erikelvis]

The only way to tell if your system pressure is below zero lbs, would be to view the low side gauge. It has two scales, Pressure and vacuum.
Buying a meter to gauge how deep of a vacuum you have achieved, is several hundred dollars. A micron tool is probably over kill on automotive work. Millions of repairs and recharging have been done with the gauges in your kit.
When you get to the point of evacuation, your going to be like the majority of people who see the low side gauge is pegged out at 30", and run the vacuum pump 30 more minutes, just to be safe. This is false thinking, but very normal.
Hats off to you for atleast investing in a vacuum pump. Feel free to contact me if you have questions.

Awesome thanks! Yeah I watched a couple quick ac vids on YouTube and got this kit. I think those vids basically said what you said and just let the vacuum pump for for 30-45 mins

 

[N2BUICK]

Can't quit this conversation without a quick analogy of vacuum. Years ago, I'm installing a new outdoor ac unit at a residence. I'm evacuating the system without a micron gauge. The suction pressure gauge, has been pegged on 30" for atleast 30 minutes. I stop the vacuum pump, crack open the service valves on the new ac unit, that that is factory changed.
Immediately I here a loud pop, and
and spewing, from inside the garage.
I had forgotten to braze in one joint of a 3/8th copper elbow. The joint blew apart and bent the pipe.
Moral of story, just because the blue gauge needle is at 30", sometimes doesn't mean all is well at times.

 

[erikelvis]

I’ll just take my time and cross my fingers I guess

 

[erikelvis]

Any recommendations for the most plug and play condenser? Prob next part I’ll pick up

 

[TexasT]

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RNRNC4013A?impressionRank=8