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A/C Question, R134a Conversion

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Just found the Spectra in stock Amazon Part number 7-4013 I have had good luck with Spectra parts Made in Canada
 
I posted these several yrs back when someone was asking about the diffences in the original and parallel flow units.
 

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Hotwire the A/C blower fan, just as you do the fuel pump, that picks up a few volts there. The fan then blows 20%-25% faster. Then replace the plastic fan blade with a metal one from Autozone or O'Reilly, the blades are thinner, so more airflow between them, and less deflection too. Thats another 10% on my flow meter. That's all I have ever done, and I have lived in AZ. Since 1977. Oh yeah, white Turbo T instead of black GNs. And dyna mat under the carpet. I know, the sun beats down on the top of the car, but the road heat comes up thru the floor, and firewall. One or 2" of fiberglass insulation in the doors, above the headliner, and behind the rear seat help too, and its not very heavy. Don't forget window tint too.
TIMINATOR
 
ANOTHER WAY TO COOL OFF IN PHOENIX,AZ.
14-71 blown, intercooled 572 BBC
5 blade, 35 pitch prop
150 gallon stock tank
QUICK BLIP OF THE THROTTLE
 

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thanks Timm and Chuck sometime we forget to use the search function to answer such a easy question. This car on 134 was 50-55 in Hawaii , not great but OK. My 96 GMC with a condenser like the NAPA unit is 40*
Thank again for your kindness and repeating your old post and not barking because we did not use the SEARCH button
 
I just checked, and my "T" has a double pass condenser, I assume the stock one was single. YAY!
 
Most of the aftermkt ac system mfgrs such as Vintage Air, use the multi pass designs.
 
Just got off the fone with the guy I sold my A/C stuff to that charged My "T", he said here in Phx, everybody changes the condenser when they do the 134 deal, but mine already had it.
 
There are 134a pressure switches for our cars available out there, I have an extra one hanging around somewhere, but I cant find it.

They are also denoted as 134a between the prongs on the connectors that plug in.
Any idea where I could get one? Is it vital to have the 134a version?
 
^ Nevermind. Someone answered that earlier -- It's only needed if the stock one is non-adjustable or in bad shape.
 
Why not just put this stuff in. Its made to work with all stock R12 components and oil. Sure it has a R134a nozzle on the bottle and you need the R134a adapter and hose to charge it. BUT you only need 2 cans as long as you vacate whats in there and do not use a vacuum on the system. Per their directions. 1 can is equal to 21oz. Total 2 cans 42oz=2.6lbs.
 
Why not just put this stuff in. Its made to work with all stock R12 components and oil. Sure it has a R134a nozzle on the bottle and you need the R134a adapter and hose to charge it. BUT you only need 2 cans as long as you vacate whats in there and do not use a vacuum on the system. Per their directions. 1 can is equal to 21oz. Total 2 cans 42oz=2.6lbs.
No MSDS on the listing, but they note it's flammable.

It's probably propane. No thanks.
 
Difloroethane is listed as the main ingredient, but the label says, no CFCs.
I would worry about its compatibility with: hoses, seals, old refrigerant, and oil.
Why not stick with 134a? And it's compatible flushes, and oils?
TIMINATOR
 
Dust off ,interesting read in Wikipedia I probably would not use it because of it being flammable.
I did open a old Ford LTD(late60s model) one time that had propane in it. the owner Said it was fixed on a trip dip in Mexico 5 fears earlier. It blew cold air but compressor had to come off to do a valve job. HVAC is a interesting trade or science. but after looking at the two different condensers and thinking how they work. what's better bar and plat or tub and fin intercooler always a debit there too.
 
The bar and plate as you call it, is better than the old tube and fin, found on the original cars.
The parallel flow or bar and plate is what HVAC, residential and commercial manufactures have been using for several years.
We all know manufactures make changes based on saving them money.
 
Difloroethane is listed as the main ingredient, but the label says, no CFCs.
I would worry about its compatibility with: hoses, seals, old refrigerant, and oil.
Why not stick with 134a? And it's compatible flushes, and oils?
TIMINATOR

Since 134a is being phased out like r-12 was, it is going to become very expensive. I'm stocking up on it now.
So is anti-freeze. Just sayin'......

There was a big explosion and fire in Louisiana the other day at a plant that makes ethylene glycol so I
wonder if this will make anti-freeze in short supply even though they have a plant in Canada.
 
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