A Free Trick To Help Speed Up Your Power Windows.

[klrv6]

I'm an ex-GM service tech too....they always blame problems on any type of modification or connector that isn't factory.(and understandably so,theres no license or test for anyone to work on cars)
Techs Aren't as savy as the past (low experience because of the automotive repair field and the employee turn over rate) and they train techs to shy away of "unproven" methods.(you must follow the computer or the tech 2 steps)
as in ANY part,connector,accessory,etc there a wrong and right way to use.Ive used 3m t-taps for over 10 years on very high amperage applications like remote starters,etc with no problem. the key is the correct one for the gage of wire,and stripping the insulation for 100% contact.

heres a link to 3m page about the t-tap.

i don't however like the "Scotch lock",except the largest version (brown 10ga +) because it has double contacts for each lead.


3M eStore: 3M Scotchlok T-Tap Nylon Insulated Self-Stripping Female QuickSlide Disconnect 952X, 18-14 AWG

grab a couple to test a few to see the results for yourself.you can find them at autozone,orlies,etc...they have became popular.


another point to add; use high quality (3m) male spades to plug into the t-tap.they are thicker and make a better contact/connection inside the t-tap.

The main reason was because the scotchlocs would cut must of the wire in half. Does this type cut any of the copper?

 

[garyk1970]

The main reason was because the scotchlocs would cut must of the wire in half. Does this type cut any of the copper?

if you use the correct size for the cable,no. the design "flattens" the wire inside the connector instead of cutting. the only drawback to a t-tap is the yelow ones IMO only good to 12 ga wire.it says 10ga but ,10ga is too tight for me.

im looking for a good web page on crimping/using terminal to post here that i learned alot from....be right back.

 

[garyk1970]

if you use the correct size for the cable,no. the design "flattens" the wire inside the connector instead of cutting. the only drawback to a t-tap is the yellow ones IMO only good to 12 ga wire.it says 10ga but ,10ga is too tight for me.

I'm looking for a good web page on crimping/using terminal to post here that i learned alot from......cant find the web site.it is by Omega an alarm company and it showed various terminals,seamed and seamless types and how to crimp correctly and with what type of crimpers.....

 

[87lightweight]

sweet i was wondering how to fix my slow a$$ windows :biggrin:

 

[scot w.]

Great info! So Gary are you going to do this up-grade to my new T-Type when you come here to visit? :biggrin:

Scot W.

 

[bmackinnon]

run car even when rolling down the windows because while rolling down the window,the motor also has to load the helper spring.

I thought our cars didn't have the 'sprung' window regulators? and that was part of the reason they are so slow to raise? I know at least my pass. door doesn't have one...

 

[Red C5]

Thank you for a great thread. I can't wait to do this.

 

[Evaddave 87gn]

Okay!

Subscribing

 

[incharge]

Thanks, Gary1970 for sharing the tip

 

[ROYAL_6]

thank you for the info and your time.... finally, my prayers have been answerd.:biggrin:

 

[49-blues]

Great thread! Thanks for the info.

 

[Just a Six??]

Good Job! Thanks!

 

[V6RACER]

....

 

[salvageV6]

Why are you calling what you are bypassing a resistor?

From the service manual:

" Each motor is protected by a built-in circuit breaker. If a window switch is held on too long with the window obstructed or after the window is fully up or down, the circuit breaker opens the circuit. The circuit breaker resets automatically as it cools. "

It's not a resistor it's a thermal circuit breaker for protection.

And yeah it can corrode and increase resistance just like the window switches over use and time.

After bypassing just make sure you stop with the switches as soon as the window is up or down, otherwise you will increase resistance in other parts of the circuit as they heat up as well.

 

[garyk1970]

I thought our cars didn't have the 'sprung' window regulators? and that was part of the reason they are so slow to raise? I know at least my pass. door doesn't have one...

you're correct,our regulators are the "scissor type".

Why are you calling what you are bypassing a resistor?

From the service manual:

" Each motor is protected by a built-in circuit breaker. If a window switch is held on too long with the window obstructed or after the window is fully up or down, the circuit breaker opens the circuit. The circuit breaker resets automatically as it cools. "

It's not a resistor it's a thermal circuit breaker for protection.

And yeah it can corrode and increase resistance just like the window switches over use and time.

After bypassing just make sure you stop with the switches as soon as the window is up or down, otherwise you will increase resistance in other parts of the circuit as they heat up as well.

sorry guys, i work on every make and manufacture of vehicle out there.its hard to remember the correct terminology to each,Ive read or heard it called an resistor and it has just stuck in my mind.the correct description is an circuit breaker.also for added protection,thats why i suggest used a fuse to protect the circuit.

 

[MENTL231]

Sounds Cool I'll Have To Try!

 

[garyk1970]

everyone keep on mind that you have to have a minimum of 1-2 volts drop across the circuit breaker to benefit from this mod.

 

[UNGN]

I would just get a new thermal circuit breaker instead of using a fuse. They do go bad over time, but when they pop, they will reset themselves.

 

[vacuum 6]

subscribing

 

[jsta6]