?? about priming

[1fast6]

I took the front cover off about 3 months ago to change the timing chain. Finally getting around to putting it back together and had a ?? about priming engine.
I left the oil filter and lines hooked to cover but some oil has leaked out over time. Is it o.k. to unhook the wire at the battery and turn over the engine til it get's oil pressure or is there a way to prime it manualy?

 

[m233roller]

I'd be scared to do it that way as it has set to LONG and you would be dry cranking it. I'd get a priming tool and prime it correctly.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Pull the cam sensor and use a oil pump prime tool on a drill.

 

[buickspec6231]

Pull the cam sensor and use a oil pump prime tool on a drill.

And if you don't have an oil pump priming tool You can use an old distributor shaft. I have one stripped down and ground one end down to fit inside the drill. You may also have to pull the pump off of the housing and pack the gears with vasoline to help with the priming.

 

[Nick Micale]

.....I left the oil filter and lines hooked to cover but some oil has leaked out over time. Is it o.k. to unhook the wire at the battery and turn over the engine til it get's oil pressure or is there a way to prime it manualy?

Yes, you can prime it manually, but here is what I would do if you do NOT have synthetic oil in the car.

I would remove the top oil cooler line at the radiator and pour oil into it until it is full, and then replace it. Crank it for no more than 30 seconds max at one time, only for 2 or 3 tries.

If no pressure then shows on the gauge, you should remove the crank sensor and use a drill to prime it.

Regular oil will adhere and stay on surfaces in the engine indefinitely, where synthetic oil will drain off the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces in a few days so a chance of damage is possible with synthetic. I have never had a problem doing this with regular oil in the engine.

 

[jasjamz]

Yes, you can prime it manually, but here is what I would do if you do NOT have synthetic oil in the car.

I would remove the top oil cooler line at the radiator and pour oil into it until it is full, and then replace it. Crank it for no more than 30 seconds max at one time, only for 2 or 3 tries.

If no pressure then shows on the gauge, you should remove the crank sensor and use a drill to prime it.

Regular oil will adhere and stay on surfaces in the engine indefinitely, where synthetic oil will drain off the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces in a few days so a chance of damage is possible with synthetic. I have never had a problem doing this with regular oil in the engine.

Interesting...I learn a lot from the things you post. Thanks Nick!

 

[1fast6]

Interesting...I learn a lot from the things you post. Thanks Nick!

x2. I will let you know how it turns out.

 

[turbofabricator]

Yes, you can prime it manually, but here is what I would do if you do NOT have synthetic oil in the car.

I would remove the top oil cooler line at the radiator and pour oil into it until it is full, and then replace it. Crank it for no more than 30 seconds max at one time, only for 2 or 3 tries.

If no pressure then shows on the gauge, you should remove the CAM sensor and use a drill to prime it.

Regular oil will adhere and stay on surfaces in the engine indefinitely, where synthetic oil will drain off the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces in a few days so a chance of damage is possible with synthetic. I have never had a problem doing this with regular oil in the engine.

Fixed it for ya Nick.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I always prime the oil pump before I crank the motor but thats just me. Such a simple thing to do. Why even mess around.