ac conversion

[Joeld]

Every article i have read comes to a different conclusion

My car sat for many years, ac worked when parked and now does not

I assume it lost charge have not confirmed

Assumimg it is the charge my gut tells me to change o rings have system flushed and the charge with 134

Opinions?

Car is entirely original 1986 gn

Thanks
Joel

 

[Joeld]

Well I've read and read and read some more including the dedicated Article on the 87 GN.
My question is, what is the best way to get the old oil out of the system? Do I do this prior to replacing that orifice tube and the accumulator? Is a flush the best way, and I assume I'd manually flush the compressor and then flush everthing else with solvent into one line off the compressor followed by compressed air to blow all through system and out other connection to compressor.
Then, once I've pulled a vacuum and confirm no leaks, do I first load with oil and then 134a gas? Or should I manually fill the compressor when off, manually fill the accumulator and then remainder in through hoses? I'm not totally clear on the old oil out and new oil in procedure.
I understand the basic process, what I don't understand is what is the best way to get the system clean prior to adding 134a and oil? There is no R-12 it has leaked out, but I assume there is oil.

I understand the recharge process and will get gauges.

Thanks,
Joel

 

[turbofrank]

If you do the search there are many opinons i live in Va where the summers are humid . My 134a conversion works good until outside temp is around 100 degree. Than its not as cold s r12 but livable. alum rad,stock location intrc. You get the picture.

 

[standupjskiguy]

In the 85 T-Type, I converted to r134 and added the oil needed to work with r134. I didn't remove the r12 oil and it's been fine for many, many years
and miles. The car has about 140k on it. Leaving to old oil in was what Interdynamics said to do. I changed nothing else except the fittings.
It does not cool quite as well as r12 but it's OK. I did it because I thought r12 would be impossible to get.
My 87 is original and low mileage, I got a big tank of r12 recently because it's not that expensive anymore as less people are using it. So, when low I put more r12 as needed.
FYI, It is normal for AC systems to lose charge over time.
Being my car is original, I choose to keep it as original as possible.

 

[Joeld]

You are making me reconsider the conversion and going to r12
I paid 15 a can for 134 at pep boys may return and just go for r12

 

[standupjskiguy]

I got a 3/4 full 30lb canister of R12 off Ebay last year for about $130 shipped.
Some are still asking a lot for their R12 but the reality is few are using R12 anymore.
So look around on Craigslist and Ebay for a fair price, then decide.

If you do go withR134, you are supposed to only fill it to 80% of the full R12 charge to avoid too high pressure.
That is kind of tough to figure when you just want to top it off.
It's better to be a little low than too high.
I measure vent temperature and shoot for a 20 degree drop from ambient cabin temperature.

 

[Joeld]

Thank you,
Joel

 

[Joeld]

I decided to go with 134a, just easier to get for when I need to re-do as the chances of me getting it right on the first try are slim
I purchased new accumulator / dryer, a new orifice tube (always blush when asking for an orifice tube), I replaced the accumulator / dryer o-rings, the compressor o-rings and whatever seals in the orifice tube will be replaced.

I'll pull a vacuum, see if it holds, hold the vacuum to get rid of any moisture, then fill with oil and then 134a refrigerant. I'm hoping that with my gauges I'll be able to get the fill correct.

If I can't hold a vacuum the chase will then begin. I am hoping the hoses are good.

Fingers cross, should have everything in next week (may have to wait on lower radiator hose as I ordered) and go for it over the weekend.

I hope it is not too cold outside, today it is colder than any temp I could hope to pull from the air vent.

Joel

 

[Bescurred]

How much oil are you putting in it? Isn't it called PAG oil or something?

 

[Joeld]

Yes, I don't know if there is a difference between PAG oil and Ester oil, ghttype.org has a great article on the swap and he calls for Ester oil, not sure if I can get that in a can or not? I'll google and see just what the difference is.
When I pulled the accumulator there was no oil in it. I was expecting some?
Joel

 

[Joeld]

6-8 oz. Ester is synthetic and can tollerate traces of r-12, which is what I need as I'm swapping. After vacuum I'd expect there to be no traces but will play it safe, price looks to be the same.
Joel