achalmersman stroker 4.1 build (291 block)

Glass is plenty good enough for this operation (as long as it doesn't look like a funhouse mirror)

Do what I said with the marker and hit it with a harbor freight knife sharpener/diamond stone. That really follows the 80/20 rule and your decks look pretty damn close to 'perfect' in the pics.


Also, get a set of 45* countersinks and go to work on those head bolt holes. It wouldn't hurt to take a drill motor and knock the first thread or two out as well.

and make sure you have a steam hole between the cylinders on the bottom side with the block and heads. Cometics make the perfect template.
 
earlbrown said:
Also, get a set of 45* countersinks and go to work on those head bolt holes. It wouldn't hurt to take a drill motor and knock the first thread or two out as well.

and make sure you have a steam hole between the cylinders on the bottom side with the block and heads. Cometics make the perfect template.
Click to expand...

It's hard to see but I had the machinist countersink the head bolt holes already. They aren't tapered like I thought he would do, but the first thread is gone and the hole is larger at the top. As far as steam holes I've heard of of that, but don't understand the purpose at all or know where to do it so I'll wait till I have the HGs in my hand to use as a template as you said. Drill the heads too? All the way through till you hit water jacket? 1/8"?



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I noticed the first thread missing but a healthy countersink will eat that up. By 'countersink' I mean a cutter with a 45* angle. (I'll try and find a shot of my deck so you can see what I mean)


The reason you need steam holes on a 4.1 is because the bores touch inside the water jacket. That means the air bubbles between the bores on the bottom side can't flow out. Therefore you have to give them a way to float up to the heads and into the water jacket. Since 8445s aren't built with siamese bores in mind, they don't have holes.



so.... get to drillin'! :D
 
Ok update: Ttype6 was right you really need a burette to get accurate and consistent chamber volume measurements. I purchased a 100cc burette off Amazon for $35. ACRYLIC BURET, PTFE STOPCOCK, 100 ML, 1/PK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018BX3ZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_DIdrwpVKEnQHM

At $35 is acrylic not glass so I didnt try alcohol. I used water with food coloring and made out ok just know water will want to cling to surfaces more. I am anal retentive so of course I actually used 80 degree water since that is what the burette is calibrated to....

I found my chambers range from 53.0 cc to 53.4 cc with an average of 53.2 cc.

b31ac28904b642fff5b37edba0978c40.jpg
e40dff1020ef2ee4ff35ae68854d1330.jpg
put the wife to work ^^^
9a90376068743b1b1ee1d07eabe62e8f.jpg


Also verified deck height with a 12" caliper. I am getting consistsnt 8.176" and when you do the math and add the radius of the main bore I get 9.5196" deck height. So Im going to trust my machinst when he told me 9.519" and assume he has more accurate method of measuring than me.
7c620544ca116e933f7809f8d7c203bb.jpg


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Last edited:
Ttype6 said:
Now,make them all 53.4 cc.
Click to expand...
I thought about it but I dont think I'm going through all that. Variation is less than half a percent from average, or total variation highest to lowest is less than 1 percent. Im more worried a out screwing them up than I am 0.45%

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achalmersman said:
I thought about it but I dont think I'm going through all that. Variation is less than half a percent from average, or total variation highest to lowest is less than 1 percent. Im more worried a out screwing them up than I am 0.45%

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Click to expand...
Yes,it's a tedious process and you'll be fine the way you are.
 
earlbrown said:
Is your deck height the same on all 4 corners?
Click to expand...
Well after your question I carefully measured all 8 spots. And revise my measurement. Either I wasnt applying enough pressure with the thumbwheel earlier, or something. I just took all 8 measurements and got 8.175" on all but 1 which was flickering between 8.175-8.1745". This puts my deck height at 9.5187" all around which makes me real confident in my machinists reported 9.519". Im getting to use the hell out of my measuring tools [emoji3]

If I had a headgasket I didnt care about I would torque down the heads and measure cylinder distortion change with the heads torqued vs untorqued.

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If you're going to run MLS, torque them up without a gasket. On my 4.1 the cylinders distorted 1 and a half thou.
 
achalmersman said:
If I had a headgasket I didnt care about I would torque down the heads and measure cylinder distortion change with the heads torqued vs untorqued.
Click to expand...
If your machinist used torque plates,you'll want to use the same torque value that he used to distort the walls into a round configuration. 70 ft/lbs is the correct torque. Don't go higher. It's been a year since I was last under my car and I changed the oil yesterday. This is the second time I've used Cometic gaskets and the first time I've used them with Hylomar. Because of the Hylomar,this is the first time I've been under my car in 27 years and seen absolutely no evidence of leaking. It's a beautiful sight.
 
Ttype6 said:
Because of the Hylomar,this is the first time I've been under my car in 27 years and seen absolutely no evidence of leaking. It's a beautiful sight.
Click to expand...

I'm starting to think you're fibbing now [emoji1]

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achalmersman said:
I'm starting to think you're fibbing now [emoji1]

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
Click to expand...
Where are you at on this build up as I'm in the middle of almost the exact same build.Any progress since this post.
 
No. Waiting on pistons from Earl and still conversing with Bison about my cam etc. Still not set on what I'm doing turbo wise. Origionally I planned on using a 3 bolt 6766 to be able to race TAI if I wanted. But really I dont want to build my car around a race that I will probably not even really compete in. So I am pretty sure this will wind up being a 4 bolt build. Also I've been really busy at work (32 hrs overtime last week) and other commitments. When I get the pistons in hand and have a few bucks I will be sending them to David Husek and having him build me a balanced rotating assembly with side clearances etc all done. Then I will just verify everything and assemble.

My origional goal in December when I took my block to the machinist was to make RCs event. I'm gonna miss that by a long shot. Lol

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
achalmersman said:
No. Waiting on pistons from Earl and still conversing with Bison about my cam etc. Still not set on what I'm doing turbo wise. Origionally I planned on using a 3 bolt 6766 to be able to race TAI if I wanted. But really I dont want to build my car around a race that I will probably not even really compete in. So I am pretty sure this will wind up being a 4 bolt build. Also I've been really busy at work (32 hrs overtime last week) and other commitments. When I get the pistons in hand and have a few bucks I will be sending them to David Husek and having him build me a balanced rotating assembly with side clearances etc all done. Then I will just verify everything and assemble.

My origional goal in December when I took my block to the machinist was to make RCs event. I'm gonna miss that by a long shot. Lol

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That's cool I've got the block with billet mains a 6262 bb turbo and a set of duttweiler irons, now just trying to decide on rotating Assy. Not sure exactly what route I'm going with that yet.where are you located
 
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