Add me to the list of needing a tranny.

[WE4]

It depends on the gear set used.....Reread above. Not to be a smart ass, in any way shape or form, but it is important this is understood.
Depending on thickness of gear sets used will determine the depth of the casting.

Bruce
WE4
www.PTSXTREME.com

 

[fc227]

Thank you for your input. You are not being a smart ass, when you are tying to help me out. (Or anyone in this case). Because of your input, I am being extra careful with the tolerances. (Plus it helps when I know an extremely good machinist in the R&D dept @ Moroso) That offered his assistance if also needed.

But this is something I want to try. Less my time, I will only be out less than $100.00. And if it doesn't work. I will bring to Jack, Joe, or Chris (Otto also offered to help) or my local tranny shop. If my back is to the wall I might install the TH350 I still have from the olds to get me around until the Th200r4 is fixed.

Basically what I am saying with all the used parts I have to reuse. I feel that if I only get the "learning" experience out of this. It will be worth it to me. This also gives me something to do after work that is not electronic related. And also helps me from sitting in front of the TV stuffing my face and getting fatter. .

I have learned allot so far. Now I understand somewhat what does what. And that is cool.

So, Bruce you are not being a smart ass. You are tiring to save me some aggregation. And I do appreciate it.

 

[bison]

Well, after removing the stator shaft and noticing that the bushing the converter rides on is scored. I decided it’s time to go into the pump. (You guys are /where right).

So I ordered a new bushing and a 13 vane pump kit with new slide.

Well, it is a learning experience.

I wouldnt change pumps if you are not familiar with them. There is no need for a 13 vane in the 200-4R. There is too much involved in replacing the pump and refinishing the pump housing for the do it yourselfer. Clearances need to be right on or you will have problems. Read the info that Bruce posted and follow it to a tee if you want it to work. The only thing i would reccomend is changing the pump rings, bushing, seal, and stator support unless you have a machine shop at your disposal. Put the housing in a lathe and check for run out after the new stator support is installed. The stator must be perpendicular to the face of the pump housing.

 

[fc227]

I ordered a new pump, 10 vane, today. I decide after listening to the words of wisdom from this an other boards.

Now I just have to install the shift kit @ tranny brake.

 

[fc227]

Well the Tranny is back in the car (bolted in, the tranny mount needs to be replaced. The auto parts store closed early today so.....).

Here is what I have done. Replaced the pump with a rebuilt 10 vane. Installed shift kit and Stage right transbrake. I took my time.

I went an reinstalled the Valve body. Then I was going though the parts left over and I seen 4 steel balls, DOH! I left one out of the tranny it self, per the shift kit instructions. Then it dawned on me the two for the valve body it self. Take it back off .

I was really surprised how clean and free all the valves and poppets are. And some of the holes that shift kit wanted to open where already done.

Installed all the new springs per shift kit instructions. Monday we shall know how it works. I can't beat on to much until I install the external cooler.

Everyone thank you for your help and input.

 

[fc227]

Well, It is together and working!

It stalls s at 2800 against the brake on the commander 93 chip, launch assist off.

Only few minor issues. One when I made a left hand turn I noticed some oil spots on the road (it is raining out here). But I look under the car and the tranny is dry the flywheel cover is dry, Unless it is some Oil I spilled sitting in a pocket some where on the car. The Speedo cable is dry; the output shaft (drive shaft) is dry. The cooler lines are not leaking and there doesn’t appear to be any leaks around the TV & Dipstick holes.

Second issue, one time it would not shift into 3rd when going below 30 MPH. but I had it on the HWY. And it shifts good and the converter locked up. And tried it again and now it shift good into third. Nice clean firm shifts, my sure the looser converter is softening the feel of the shifts. (It did on the Olds).

Trans brake works.

The TV cable, this is the odd, because of the shift kit (I believe). Has a heavy spring. (Engine off) So here is how I set it @ WOT, The cable discounted from the Trottle I used my hand to pull the cable to where it was fully drawn @ WOT (By moving the TV setting cable and locking it). Because When I did it the regular way the adjuster pulls way forward and the cable is not full drawn @ WOT. Am I total wrong here? Is it only suppose to be part drawn @ WOT?

And there is a slight whine when it is in gear (I did have one before I did this, But as far as I can tell it is no worst then before).


I want to thank everyone for his or her input.

 

[bison]

It should be fully drawn slightly before WOT. Ive seen cables that were worn out click forward so the TV was a little less under part throttle but at WOT it was still fully drawn.

 

[fc227]

Thank you , I was right