Hey guys, my alky system seems to be working fine at wot. I get a green light about 7 psi and knock is under control. Although while cruising I've tried turning the alky up to 8 and hold down the test button and waiting for the green light to purge/test the system before a blast but it just stays red. Is this a problem or am I over looking something. I normally keep the knob set at 6. Thanks.
alky test/purge ... no green light?
- Thread starter HouTX87
- Start date
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The test button only runs the pump at whatever you have your "initial" set at and that isn't enough pressure to make the light flip to green. The test is just to purge the system from air and make sure pump voltage is sent. It'll take boost to get the voltage up high enough to create enough pressure to get the light to turn green. Where did you read it was supposed to turn green with the test button?
I thought the instructions said to hold the test button and after approximately two seconds the light should turn from red to green. I just want to make sure the system is working properly. I installed the system over a year ago but I just replaced a leaking alky pump so I've been paranoid about making sure everything is in check. Thanks we4mateo.
You're good man. As long as it turns green a few psi after it turns on/red under boost, you are golden. You'll know when the pump is starting to go b/c the psi between turn on and turning green will get longer and longer as the pump isn't putting out as much pressure when new. This is usually from a leak in the pump or just from getting weak. My pumps always seem to start leaking after 3 years or so of use so I keep a reman in stock.
Thanks 
. I spoke to Julio on the phone about my pump leaking and he told me that the supplier may switch pumps between a barrel of race gas and a a barrel of methanol. He said it doesn't take much to damage an alky pump so I've been running sealed containers of methanol since. I use about 5 gals every 3 months so the extra cost isn't too bad.
. I spoke to Julio on the phone about my pump leaking and he told me that the supplier may switch pumps between a barrel of race gas and a a barrel of methanol. He said it doesn't take much to damage an alky pump so I've been running sealed containers of methanol since. I use about 5 gals every 3 months so the extra cost isn't too bad.rafael vasquez
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Good info!! I also thought is was suposto turn green..
The test button applies the same voltage to the pump as when the kit activates. So if your kit activates(turns on) at 7 psi boost.. and at 7 psi boost applies 3.5 volts.. then when you push the test button it applies 3.5 volts to the pump.
The pump typically takes 3.8-4.0 volts to develop 50 psi pressure. If your gain and initial are set to only send 3.5 then you wont see green led condition. Typically when I send the controllers out with Gain on 8 and Initial at the 12 o'clock setting.. that should make your 50 psi pressure. Battery voltage on the car can play a role on this.
So.. on the Buick.. Me.. I look at my scanmaster and while driving down the road hit the test button.. O2's jump into the 800's.. i'm locked and loaded. The O2's should jump up pretty quickly.. at that point go into boost and see the led change from red to green.
Now if your paranoid you can simply bump up the Initial inside the PAC controller.. this will make the kit more aggressive(send a higher voltage) and def make the led change sooner.. but more than likely will be too much alky down low.
Hope this helps.
Julio
The pump typically takes 3.8-4.0 volts to develop 50 psi pressure. If your gain and initial are set to only send 3.5 then you wont see green led condition. Typically when I send the controllers out with Gain on 8 and Initial at the 12 o'clock setting.. that should make your 50 psi pressure. Battery voltage on the car can play a role on this.
So.. on the Buick.. Me.. I look at my scanmaster and while driving down the road hit the test button.. O2's jump into the 800's.. i'm locked and loaded. The O2's should jump up pretty quickly.. at that point go into boost and see the led change from red to green.
Now if your paranoid you can simply bump up the Initial inside the PAC controller.. this will make the kit more aggressive(send a higher voltage) and def make the led change sooner.. but more than likely will be too much alky down low.
Hope this helps.
Julio
^^^^good stuff.
I forgot to mention that I run my initial at 11 oclock but turn it on at 5psi. This lower initial setting may be why I never see the green light while testing but others may see it if they are running factory or even more inital setting.
I forgot to mention that I run my initial at 11 oclock but turn it on at 5psi. This lower initial setting may be why I never see the green light while testing but others may see it if they are running factory or even more inital setting.
With a lower Initial it simply puts less voltage to the pump when it activates. So your not going to see a green led using test.
To make pressure its a function of voltage applied to pump vs orfice size on pumps outlet. The smaller the orfice, the less voltage to obtain a certain pressure. Example you can run 12v on the pump and not make pressure on an open hose. Had you been using like an M5 nozzle vs the M15 with the lower Initial it may go green.
