Alternator?

LSTTYPE

Active Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2001
Just went to the track and was breaking up at boost in 3rd. My wideband showed a tad rich so not a fuel issue. I did notice that my volts drop from 13.1 into the 12s at wot. Does my alternator need rebuilt?
 
Oops sorry meant to add that it has a brand new nos ignition module, coil pack, new wires and plugs gapped at 28
 
Go with a LT1 autozone alt . They bolt right in and are 140amp with a warranty
 
Are you running a voltage booster? Casper's v plus voltage booster adds 2.2 volts at WOT. Also, makes sure you maintain good voltage to the fuel pump under load. Last thing you want is to lean out. If not, get one. They're cheap, plus plug n play. I use Autolite 23 plugs gapped at .032 for street and .035 for kill. They're highly effective and cheap to replace whenever. Also, I recently changed over to Taylor Thunder Volt 50 10.4mm race wires from the red MSD 8.5mm wires. Couldn't be happier.
 
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I am reading volts via a scanmaster. I just had the alternator rebuilt and added a volt booster. WOT voltage is now 15.9. However I'm still breaking up under high boost of 22/23 psi or more. Gonna try some autolite AR 135s gapped to 25. My car runs fairly rich according to my wideband and I suspect that it may have something to do with it but not sure. Everything on my ignition system is new
 
My alt went out after only 6 months of use. Autozone didnt even bother testing just tossed me a new one. Wonder what the fail rate on these things are.
 
You need to check your ignition system over good new parts don't mean good parts. Also a fat or rich mixture is usually just going to make the car lay down on the big end not crap out. need to check it at lower boost levels and if it doesn't have same problem then something in ignition system is not up to task.This is why we run stout coils and ignition systems because in a racing environment under high cylinder pressure a normal ignition doesn't have enough voltage to fire the plugs under such high cylinder pressure, ie high compression, nitrous ,or boosted applications.This is also why we tighten up the gap under high pressures as rodruckus said because it can blow out the flame kernel on spark plug.By the way alternator could cause problem because no matter how good youre ignition system is if alternator is dropping voltage it cant feed that stout ignition system. Hope you find it.
 
The alternator was just rebuilt and is no longer dropping voltage. I am running e85. If I turn the boost down to 21 it clears up. I am getting ready to try auto lite ar 135s. What do you recomend gap for boost of 24 plus psi? I'll try anything as I have to help take out a mustang at this weekends Buick vs Ford
 
How do you know he even put the right parts in, ie spark plugs? If he's using the wrong plugs, that may be his problem and would cause breaking-up. Plus, it wouldn't hurt to open his gap more. Giving him an example of what I run and how I set em. Never any issues with regular Autolite 23. They're cheap and just plain work. I'd recommend staying away from the Autolite race plugs if you drive on the street, too. Been there, done that.
 
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I have no issue with Autolite racing plugs on the street. ..
AR3933 ....25-27 psi

Bryan
 
I've heard e85 is really hard to ignite. My buddy runs ar 135s on the street and has never had problems. I really don't want to have to get a tr6 setup at the time.
 
I cant tell you what gap to run on your engine. The problem with taking advice from people, some advice not all, is just because it works in their application doesn't mean it will work in yours. when I try to help people out on engines or transmissions, or any other part of something that I don't have sitting in front of me I try to help diagnose the problem and help with a solution.When you say that the car is crapping out at higher boost levels but you lower the boost a little and it goes away about the only thing that could be happening is the plugs are either gapped too wide or the are too hot or too cold, that is, as I stated earlier, if your ignition components are up to the task of firing the plugs at such high cylinder pressure. This is after all what is happening correct. Higher boost = higher cylinder pressure, therefore this is one thing you can try.I don't care if you have light bulbs screwed into the spark plug hole, if they light the fire at 10 lbs.,15lbs.20lbs.of boost but they start crapping out at 22lbs.what does that tell you, it tells me you either need to close the gap because its blowing out the flame kernel at the plug or wrong heat range on plug.Now something else I didn't mention you might try indexing the plugs also so it shrouds the flame kernel, this could help as well.
 
How do you know he even put the right parts in, ie spark plugs? If he's using the wrong plugs, that may be his problem and would cause breaking-up. Plus, it wouldn't hurt to open his gap more. Giving him an example of what I run and how I set em. Never any issues with regular Autolite 23. They're cheap and just plain work. I'd recommend staying away from the Autolite race plugs if you drive on the street, too. Been there, done that.
I have never seen a wider gap help the ignition with high cylinder pressure. It does the exact opposite. Works the coil hard and can cause mis-fire and engine damage. If he suspects a weak ignition he should close the gap down to .020" and make sure the primary voltage is at least 14v! Also autolite racing plugs are a superior non projected plug for a high cylinder pressure application that is moving a lot of air. Plugs are plugs and will work if the correct type but the gap does matter a lot.



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Just got back from the 20th anniversary Buick vs Ford shootout. What a nightmare the final scored was like 66 to 5. Those new coyote fords run real strong plus no heavy hitter Buicks come out to attend anymore. Anyways my ignition probem has been solved. My car was running pig rich! It was actually fouling plugs. Now it is smooth at 23/24 psi with no break up. My waste gate rod needs shortened or I would have cranked it more.
 
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