Another WBO Bung Q
- Thread starter jpratt
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I had been chasing a lean condition, high BLMs but not extremely high. I am going to look into that heat sink. After I relocate to the lower portion of the DP. How far from the end though, that is the question?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,458
There's a problem than location, if U R melting O2 sensors.
AKA, REAL LEAN, contributing to VERY high EGTS?
Or, maybe even very rich, and the excess fuel is burning in the pipe?
AKA, REAL LEAN, contributing to VERY high EGTS?
Or, maybe even very rich, and the excess fuel is burning in the pipe?
I never saw the EGT get over 1550. The innovate site calls for the sensor to remain below somewhere around 900 at the bung. The sensor did not really melt like a piece of plastic, the tip looks perfect, just a few threads on the very tip melted. But it is still throwing off an overheat code.
That's strange that anything should melt that far down the pipe.
As a general rule of thumb, the turbo will drop the EGT's at least 400° by the time it leaves the turbine housing, and probably even significantly more than that by the time it gets those extra couple feet down the pipe.
I wouldn't expect the EGT's at that point to be much over 1250° on a real hot run, and unless you have a really crappy exhaust system, backpressure on th sensor shouldn't be a problem.
As a general rule of thumb, the turbo will drop the EGT's at least 400° by the time it leaves the turbine housing, and probably even significantly more than that by the time it gets those extra couple feet down the pipe.
I wouldn't expect the EGT's at that point to be much over 1250° on a real hot run, and unless you have a really crappy exhaust system, backpressure on th sensor shouldn't be a problem.
I have the 2.5 Stainless steel ATR exhaust with THDP. I think it is a great exhaust system. Stock headers.
I put a piece of rubber under the vac block and reset the ECM. Took it out for a drive and the BLM's are still kinda high. about 138-142. I have not noticed any exhaust leak. I tried spraying carb cleaner all around the doghosue, TB, all IC connectors, and the IAC. No where did the engine act like it was getting the cleaner sucked in, no revving up or stalling. what would be the best way to check for an exhaust leak, a minor one?
Here is what I have
KN filter
Big mouth CAI
3" MAF
Translator
TA49
RJC Megacooler
70MM TB
Accufab upper dog house
RJC plenum plate for the Accufab
Champion ported stock intake
Champion ported iron heads
60lb injectors
TT alky chip
Alkycontrol, methanol, turned off right now to find the source of the high BLMs
210/210 roller cam
TD roller rockers
big valves, not sure what size, cant remember
stock headers
drivers size has been TIG welded by Bill Dieckman, looks great
TA49, again
THDP
stock style waste gate
RJC bleeder boost controller, boost turned down to 15
electric cutout and test pipe
ATR 2 1/2" SS exhaust with dual pitbulls
I think that wraps up the air path from filter to tip.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 9,446
If you are using the Innovative sensor, it will fail there. Thats the same place we have the sensor on two of Shane's cars and we've gone through at least 4 sensors. I talked with Innovative and they told me without question the sensor needs to be under the car. I'd move it.
Thanks Jay. I already have another sensor on order and already got a spot in mind where it is going to go. Just before the last bend in the DP before the slip fitting, pointing towards the passenger door.
I was wondering about that also. That little thing is close to $90. I am going to use the copper plate heat sink method talked about in the LC1 manual. Basically a 4"x4" thin sheet of copper with a hole drilled in the center. Then the sensor sandwiches the copper to the bung.
My WB sensor is mounted in the same place and I went ahead and ordered the Innovate bung extender as a preventative thing. Been my 90 mile per day daily driver for about 2 months now and no problems. I think it looks better than big ugly copper heat sink. BTW, never had a problem before I started using the bung extender/no heat sink either. Just my .02
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,458
Another $.02
IMO, using the short bungs exposes the threads, and that's not good.
The bungs I use cover the threads.
My S2 engine dp had the sensor, [seq FAST], about 12" past the gate, and I never had a problem. In fact, the sensor ran in the stock location until I read about problems there. No problem there, either. EGT'S were in the mid 1600's. Over 300 runs, on the street for many miles, all on 118...Same sensor!
Once you move the sensor, maybe put the EGT couple in where the sensor was, and see exactly what the temps are at that point??
IMO, using the short bungs exposes the threads, and that's not good.
The bungs I use cover the threads.
My S2 engine dp had the sensor, [seq FAST], about 12" past the gate, and I never had a problem. In fact, the sensor ran in the stock location until I read about problems there. No problem there, either. EGT'S were in the mid 1600's. Over 300 runs, on the street for many miles, all on 118...Same sensor!
Once you move the sensor, maybe put the EGT couple in where the sensor was, and see exactly what the temps are at that point??
