Any good hyd roller lifters other than clicky Comps?

[StraubTech]

We supply several companies with the Morel lifters. This includes AMC to Pontiacs and is around 1200 sets a year. What I have seen personally with my wholesale customers is .040" works the best with older warn OEM cast iron blocks.

 

[flowbench]

I don't normally post on threads like this however,as a dealer for comp for over 25 years,I am not very happy with the way they have handled this issue.I recently disassembled a set of "problem" lifters and did a surface finish analysis on the internal parts.I was VERY disappointed at the fit/finish and overall workmanship[or lack of it].I can't afford to use such poorly made lifters in customer engines and have had to source those parts elsewhere.I don't know how long it will take them to address this problem, so far, it's been stonewalled.Buyer beware..

 

[turbo nasty]

Funny this is brought back as I have a lifter that we just cut open as well and planned on putting pics up. Just a few hundred miles and the comp lifters were swapped for morels. Upon opening the cc liftersxwe found outer bodys internal cavity that everything fits in is much too rough finished for its purpose. We had three good local machinists friends look as weIl and they all agree on the finish being piss poor. will post up pics.

 

[turbo nasty]

Here's the inside of the lifters outer body that everything's riding in/on.

 

[turbo nasty]

Not the best pics since its a close up but clearly you can see the rough finish and wear even with just a few hundred miles on them. Morels for me no question. Several friends in the LS community with over 1k hp only run the Morels as well. One actually had a Comp come apart and send all kinds of metal through the engine and switched to morels.

 

[turbo nasty]

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[flowbench]

That's pretty much it.The surface RA numbers are all very rough as well,almost like they skipped the finish pass..

 

[Razor]

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Old saying.. That'll buff right out

 

[troyk]

So, I'm a little confused, I ordered up my new cam setup from from Hartline(4-28-15), the invoice shows 6853-12. I don't think I seen anybody on here indicate that 853s are worth having. Has CC improved their tolerance or quality over the yrs that this thread has been going or did I miss something?
Invoice list of parts.
69-400-8 cam kit
6853-12 lifters
6010 T & D rockers
This is a street car w alum heads, iron block.

My motor has been built by Wildcat, sound like he builds the motor with loose tolerances, don't know about the lifter area. He rattled a lot of stuff off on what he did over the phone, but I'm not an engine builder, so a lot blew over my head, but I thought he said he trued up the lifter bores & chamfered or deburred the lifter holes. Do I need to have the bore sizes rechecked if you guys recommend me the Morels? Unfortunately he just got done with the motor & it is in shipment back to my mechanic.

 

[Turbo Keith]

Hey SF , Im good friends with Kevin Wenstead at Comp Cams in Memphis , Tn . Kevin is a mechanical engineer and has owned alot of TB and has great knowledge on the cars , He is the one that put my valve springs on a few weeks ago , give him a call he would love talking with you . Let me know what he says

 

[Turbo Keith]

ok sorry , didnt see that you posted that back in 2010 ,

 

[Justin85]

My comp cams are super loud and seem to be the worse when not under load... The car sounds like a god damn clicking machine. I might swap to these lifters this winter.

 

[Parr30]

TA Performance in mine but the a little bit chatty ...

 

[michael evans]

Did a search, but could'nt find anything. I've got Comps in the car right now and they set off the knock detector at anything over 5200 rpms, It doesnt mater how much boost I'm running, or even if the car's in park. I really dont want to run thicker oil or unplug my knock detector. Anyone have any luck with any other hyd roller lifters? Or modify the Comp link bar to not be so sloppy?

Thanks Mike Barnard

My thinking is if this does not happen until 5200 RPMs it is your valve springs not being able to keep the rollers on the cam.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

My thinking is if this does not happen until 5200 RPMs it is your valve springs not being able to keep the rollers on the cam.

I believe you are correct sir. Looking back. I think weak valve springs were part of the problem at higher rpms.
However, when changing to the Morel lifters only, (same springs) the clicking noise was much less at idle, in driving and
my knock sensor was happier thru the entire rpm range.

 

[Justin85]

I believe you are correct sir. Looking back. I think weak valve springs were part of the problem at higher rpms.
However, when changing to the Morel lifters only, (same springs) the clicking noise was much less at idle, in driving and
my knock sensor was happier thru the entire rpm range.

Could you hear your lifters when driving down the road?

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

Could you hear your lifters when driving down the road?

As remember, I could hear the Comps from inside the car at idle and light cruise. They were very "clicky" from outside the car. The Morels I can't hear at all unless my head's over the engine.

 

[michael evans]

First thing I would do is measure the Comp set to the Morels to see if they are the same height. Measure from the bottom of the wheel to the cup where the push rod sets. I am guessing that they are shorter after pump up (if they are Hydraulic) . Much easier to measure if they were solid.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

First thing I would do is measure the Comp set to the Morels to see if they are the same height. Measure from the bottom of the wheel to the cup where the push rod sets. I am guessing that they are shorter after pump up (if they are Hydraulic) . Much easier to measure if they were solid.

It's been a few years now, but as I remember, switching to the Morels, I had to order new pushrods. I can't remember if they were 1/8" shorter or longer. I may have noted it in this now 14 page thread.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

First thing I would do is measure the Comp set to the Morels to see if they are the same height. Measure from the bottom of the wheel to the cup where the push rod sets. I am guessing that they are shorter after pump up (if they are Hydraulic) . Much easier to measure if they were solid.

Just searched back 8 years in this thread to post #81 . The pushrods needed to be about 1/8" longer for the Morels. Therefor, the Morels are about 1/8" shorter.

And for the record: Set #1 is still living happy, inside my ten second, Turbo Lou mutton motor.

Mike B.