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Any sure fire ways to stop a pesky drain back leak?

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Royal-T-Ltd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2003
Messages
4,327
Okay i have been fighting an annoying leak at the drainback tube where it mounts to the turbo... from what i can tell the top sealing area is pretty flat ... i use studs because its easier to align everything... but it seems it always leaks ... its a newer replacement [not OEM] and doesnt look like there are any cracks. I put the gaskets on dry. Is that my problem?

Are there any tips... i have done this alot and have never had this many problems.....maybe the tube is faulty... anyway any tricks i am missing.

Help . this sh!t is annoying and the oil is running down and getting on everything.

thks

aaron
 
A PITA, but take it off, clean the flange w/ carb clean. Then, plug the tube w/ a piece of paper towel. Take a magic marker and "paint" it. Take a fine file and file it until the marker is gone. [Poor man's layout dye!] Flush w/ carb cleaner and blow clean.
The tube may be protruding above the surface of the flange. Hopefully, it's either brazed or silver soldered, and not just swedged into place. [Ho Chi Min style]:(
Also, some of the flanges may be stamped, and are distorted in the process.
Some "Right Stuff may help w/ sealing.
 
Thanks Chuck... i am 98.9% sure this is an "off-shore" version :confused: and will double check whether or not its brazed or soldered... i am pretty sure it was. Would you recommend a gasket and sealant or just use the rights stuff... also my straight edge might of been a little thin so i will try and see if i have a chunk of aluminum or steel that i can use to double check the flatness...

thanks for the quick reply...

aaron
 
A gasket should be good. Iused some Permatex #2 on the last one I did. Right Stuff was out...
 
the graphite drain gaskets seal well. Better than regular paper type. search for T3/T4 graphite drain gasket.
 
or you might find one at an international truck dealer parts counter. they used good gaskets in that spot.
 
I have a foolproof method. Oh, BTW, never use Right Stuff as a gasket only, for any application. It makes a good gasket sealer but will never hold up as a gasket by its self.

Anyway, I use the thick gaskets for the drain back. GM part number 25537227. Got my last batch at a chevy dealer. They can be hard to find though. They're a sort of graphite like material, and are about .050 or so thick. I use a very light smear of ultra copper on each side of the gasket and then install. If you can find those gaskets and use this method you'll never again have a leak, even if your surfaces are not flat.
 
I have a foolproof method. Oh, BTW, never use Right Stuff as a gasket only, for any application. It makes a good gasket sealer but will never hold up as a gasket by its self.

Anyway, I use the thick gaskets for the drain back. GM part number 25537227. Got my last batch at a chevy dealer. They can be hard to find though. They're a sort of graphite like material, and are about .050 or so thick. I use a very light smear of ultra copper on each side of the gasket and then install. If you can find those gaskets and use this method you'll never again have a leak, even if your surfaces are not flat.

Thanks Dave - the search for the gaskets starts now.

actually found quite a few on eBay...kinda high - but if they work they are well worth it.

aaron
 
I bought a few from someone on this board for like 2 buck a piece. he might still have a few left.
I have had good luck with ultra black permatex for the gasket and dry gaskets.
I do like the studded idea tho. The most I have ever been frustrated with any of my cars is aligning the stupid drain hose.
 
I bought a few from someone on this board for like 2 buck a piece. he might still have a few left.
I have had good luck with ultra black permatex for the gasket and dry gaskets.
I do like the studded idea tho. The most I have ever been frustrated with any of my cars is aligning the stupid drain hose.
You will love having studs... It makes all the difference in the world.. I used to hate threading those bolts, and worrying about cross threading the rear one.

Aaron


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