Anyone have trouble with Caspers Ignition Module Adapter?

[LAMMONS0003]

I have two 84 t types. One is a running car with original ingition module. Just bought the other due to it not having any spark. It has a new ignition module from O'Reillys and an adapter that requires you to remove the resistance wire and install new wire in its place from caspers. I also have the hot wire/ relay style adapter, I can not get the ignition module to work on my running car for anything. Tried both adapters. This is a new module that i have had checked also just to make sure nothing was wrong after first time I installed it. I also have 3 other used / junk yard modules that tested good that wont fire my normally running old igniton module car . Surely two adapters and 4 modules cant be bad?? I can rule out cam and crank sensor and ECM due to the car runs with old module. Does anyone have any ideas or am I just over looking something. Please any suggestions would be nice.

 

[O SO LO]

The adapters are for converting to the 86-87 ign. module only!! If you are using the 84-85 module with adapters it won't work.
Here is a link to how the wires differ...
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ignition/module.html

 

[LAMMONS0003]

I am tryign to get the new 86/87 module and coil to work on my running car, that has a original 84/85 module at the moment. I know everything signal wise is good due to the fact it runs with old 84/85 module. I have the adapters and new 86/87 module with correct coil that I cant get to work on the car. I know that it has to be with the module or adpater due to the car running before I install the new 86/87 module and coil. I was worried about grounding so I ran an extra ground from the module bolt to the negative battery cable.

 

[TurboBuRick]

The engine block is the main ground. No need for extra wire.

You may need to adjust the cam sensor. I've found it necessary when switching between different brand modules.

RL

 

[84sithlord]

i had a problem with the relay. it melted very quickly so i ran a fuse instead...plus it gave me a kill switch. i would check your relay.

 

[Raymond Jimenez]

Lammoms0003 did u find out what the problem was I have the same issue right now

 

[LAMMONS0003]

Raymond, I have not had a chance to work on it any due to working late. I hope to work on it more this weekend. I have been fighting this for a long time. I got my first Buick 2 years ago and tried putting a newer module on it. It never worked out for me. Now i just got the 2nd t type and brought up the problem all over again. Only thing different is now I have a running car to test modules and adapters on. I know people do it but I just dont understand, new module and new adapter should work. I thought about re-pinning the connector and not even using a adapter. But havent got that far yet.

 

[Shamusvelez]

I may be having a similar issue. 85' gn with old ignition and ecu started up and ran great. Ok, recently upgraded to 86'-7 ecu so i obviously had to upgrade the module and maf and map and install an iat sensor as well. Also using Caspers adapter and since the upgrade I have only been able to start it once, and it was with much extra needed effort (on charger, new battery btw, and spraying the intake) Not sure if it could be the adapter as well. Is there any rewiring that needs to be done? even though I have a complete 86-7 ecu and ignition system? I've been chasing and changing every sensor and cap and timing and spark and fuel and still cant find the issue. I've sunk a fortune into this soulless bitch for over a year now, re did everything, and still havent been able to enjoy not one cruise down the highway!

 

[TurboBuRick]

Did you try adjusting the cam sensor?

 

[Shamusvelez]

Yes. tried to set it with caspers cam tool. adjusted the the cam, plugged the tool in, its supposed to light up when your adjusting the sensor, but it never lit up. I then tried caspers cam fix module, it basically sends a false cam signal so you can start the car. nothing. ughhh

 

[TurboBuRick]

Did you verify spark and fuel?

 

[Shamusvelez]

spark. fuel.Obd scan, patience. The whole 9, you name it, i got it. I'm currently changing the crank sensor which looked a little tired, and new cam sensor cap. The entire car is brand new with the exception of the harness, and a handful of sensors,relays etc. So i'm slowly running through them hoping to remedy the problem. which is ok because like i said everything else is redone so, mind as well. just very frustrating. i'm sure its something simple, and stupid.

 

[turbonut85]

post up some pics of the adapters you are using and the ign modules...have you verified the 86-87 coil/modules work on an intercooled car or a caspers tester??

 

[Shamusvelez]

Negative. I just assumed because they were new they should work. Here is a photo of the adapter, except the one I have only has the multipin connector. This is a similar Item they sell that has an extra cable that attaches to the battery, and another cable with some sort of relay. Not sure if I should get this one instead of the one I have.

 

[turbonut85]

Can't see the pic......

 

[Shamusvelez]

Im sorry. I did my best to get it in. Not too computer savvy. I'm Gonna try it from my phone. standby

 

[Shamusvelez]

Here is a photo of the adapter, except the one I have only has the multipin connector. This is a similar Item they sell that has an extra cable that attaches to the battery, and another cable with some sort of relay. Not sure if I should get this one instead of the one I have.

 

[O SO LO]

here is a wiring diagram with the adapter as well, may help...

http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/ccciwiringinfo.pdf

 

[GNVenom]

As far as CCCI adapter go, here's some info I have found. If your hot air car loses its module, and you attempt to plug an 86-89 style module into the connector, it will fit physically, but it will instantly blow your CRANK sensor; using an 87 style module routes the the battery voltage to the opposite pins on your stock, 85 style CRANK sensor, causing immediate destruction. Also, it's possible that you can damage the internal feeds, within the module itself, and cause a no power fault to the CRANK sensor, even AFTER you use the adapter.

The plug-and-play adapter that Caspers supplies is easily identified; all but three wires are re-positioned in different locations between the engine's wiring and the actual connector that plugs into the module. To take it a step further, there are two CCCI Hotwire Adapters available. One is for the standard 86-89 style CCCI module, and the other is for a hot-air vehicle that has been fitted with the 87 style CCCI module.

You should eliminate the pink resistance wire in the hot air car, which is the feed for the coil pack. Instead, add a length of ordinary copper wire in its place. Do this ONLY when you use an 87 style module.

Finally, DO NOT USE aftermarket modules. They are well known to exhibit questionable performance, and are not compatible with the LED cam sensor cap since they use different voltages to operate. Also, they are well known to give you tach signal problems. Use a standard GM Delco part for your ignition module. They're hard to find, but they are out there, so do a search. It's a real good idea to have a spare Delco module if you plan on keeping your car. And, don't use junkyard parts for your car - EVER. I can't emphasize this enough. Yes, you may be saving a few $$ but in the long run, it's not worth the frustration of troubleshooting when the part doesn't work.

Off the soap box for now.

 

[Shamusvelez]

On the diagram from Caspers it states to remove the pink resistance wire in the harness and bypass it with 16ga solid copper wire? It's the wire between terminal P of the ccci connector and terminal D4 of C100 bulkhead at the firewall. I don't know how to do this. Any help? I read the same in your last post. All I should do is remove the pink resistance wire and run the copper wire in its place?