Assuming all is healthy and well of course. I am getting pretty concerned that the setup I am about to move to will most likely be the death of my OEM crank. Anyone have an idea or real world experience as to what these things can hold before I should start getting worried?
approximately how much power will a factory 86-87 crank hold?
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dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
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I'm worried for my crank as well I should be close to 600hp stock crank and rods 2 center caps
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
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500-600 hp I would think
its gotta be more than that, I'm making more than 500 to the wheels as the car sits now.
I've got 2 years of solid hits on one. The slowest the car trapped in the quarter was 132mph. It repeatedly went 135+ a couple months later with the same 6265 turbo. I have a 6766 on it currently and it's got at least 15 hits through 3rd to 6000 rpm on it. It's over 800hp currently. How long it will last is a roll of the dice. I've never broken a crank. Cracked many blocks though. If someone's asking me how far an stock engine will go then I'll say not very far. Most guys struggle with steel crank and rods. Not from crank failure but from cracked blocks, melted pistons, and hammered out rod bearings. The reason for these is detonation, lean outs, and overheated cylinders due to operator error.
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This is great information. Thank you. My engine appears to be healthy for all intents and purposes. I do have some knock alerts that come up while my RPMs are climbing, in gradual acceleration, but the threads that I have seen referring to this chock it up to false knock. I've made a couple actual pulls from a dig and I had two knock alerts for the entire quarter mile pull. The car seems to be happy where it is now, but I am moving to E85, and with it, I'm putting in the supporting mods, and a 6766CEA turbo. I don't have a girdle, but I do have billet caps and studded mains with the rock filled with blockrok.
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When Jim Ruggles built my 109, using stock crank, main caps, studs, he said "have fun w/ it. Once you milk it for 600 for a while, it'll come unraveled". He added, most likely, it will pull the main saddles out of the block. He was dead on!
I agree. 60lbs of minute of air over time is plenty to twist the crank and load the main saddles. Like is said never a failed crank but many cracked blocks
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I've never had any knock retard and not have never leaned out my engine. It's still a crap shoot but if there's any hiccups it will be damaged even if it doesn't show it right away.
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GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
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prob around 600 hp or so. it can and has surely made more. they flex. if u have a girdle its less of an issue.
I have the same concerns since mine is a stock crank but I do have a girdle but shit Bison has gone high 9's with his blue car and he beats the balls off it on the street for YEARS now.
if the car is tuned right it shud hold the power ur lookn to make based on ur signature.... for how long is anyones guess
I have the same concerns since mine is a stock crank but I do have a girdle but shit Bison has gone high 9's with his blue car and he beats the balls off it on the street for YEARS now.
if the car is tuned right it shud hold the power ur lookn to make based on ur signature.... for how long is anyones guess
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Based upon both your statement and Chuck's, our experience has been about the same about cracking blocks before trashing cranks at the 600 HP level.
However a major factor contributing to block failure at the main saddle is crank flex.
A lighter, weaker cast crank will have LOTS more flex at the 600 HP level and RPM to develop that power than a stronger, heavier forged or billet crank. This has been illustrated in the many 600 HP engines we have rebuild as the main bearings will show extreme flex in their wear pattern.
We have many engines running 600 HP with forged cranks, no girdle, but 2 center caps, and this wear pattern in not shown there.
Even the best tune cannot counteract the fatigue factor of the V-6 stock crank or block, but minimizing crank flex by using a forged will go a long way to insure more longevity at the higher HP levels.
The rolled fillets on a cast crank does not improve strength, but helps to eliminate crank failure due to cracking
Even back further in time when working with the big block Buick V-8, it was evident well below the 500 HP level crank flex was a big issue as many blocks and cranks were trashed until the billet cranks were made for the V-8 which doubled their HP potential.
cant have that if you want it to live.if it knocks get out of it and find out why.
I just received my SD2 chip in the mail as well as an AEM UEGO wideband to be used with the PowerLogger. This will all be used with the e85 setup I am moving to, so I'd like to think that I am on the right track as far as taking precautions to keep this car running well, but I am still a novice, so I will most likely be requiring assistance in getting the tune ironed out.
I cant stress enough about grabbing someone that has made the power you want to make/knows how to tune the car already as there is an expensive learning curve to making a lot of power with these cars.i would add a full time in cockpit fuel pressure gauge to your list of parts.
I have a fuel pressure gauge in my cluster already. my eyes are glued to it during pulls.
nice!to me watching things is very important.
This is a good read. My block is stock crank, rods, and caps with ARP studs. I've already trapped as high as 120mph on street tires with 20psi and now run 24-26. My TE-44 is on the small side for my combo and I was considering going with a 6265 turbo and front mount in the future. That will probably get me to 130mph traps and hit that 600hp mark. Now that I've read this, I may scale back a bit and keep myself in the safety zone. I don't really race my car at the track anyway. My only issue that bothers me about the combo is that damn part throttle flutter. It used to spool way to fast as well and blow off the tires, but it was also running too lean between 2500 and 3800 when I got in it. Now that I fattened it up, it spools just right.
