If you take a motor thats in the 600 hp range and drop the compressed air temperature from 110* to 60* you can put about 10% more cfm into the same place.
Now you have 10% more air in the same space AND its cooler. So now a pump gas guy can make more power at the same boost level, and be farther away from detonation at the same time.... Its up to each individual to decide if thats worth $2000 to them.
Now I bought my set up used for $1200. I then added:
1. An extra shurflow pump it now runs dual pumps, supply, and return lines.
2. A pair of 5 gallon fuel cells that I insulated. My tanks dont sweat moisture into the car and it keeps me from waisting the ice.
3. A pair of switches to turn each pump on and off. If I'm at the track or on the street "ICED DOWN" I leave the pumps off. If its time to romp on it I can pump 5.6 gal/min of ice water into an aluminum IC. Drop a red hot bolt into room temp water. It will take like 2 seconds to cool it down. So I hit the switch and the IC gets real cold real fast. I make my run then turn off the pumps. This seams to work real good and makes the ice last a long time (multiple runs, and/or a few passes)
4. a pair of valves and a "T" are all thats needed to switch from "heat exchanger mode" to "Iced down mode"
All said I'm sitting at $1500 invested into a very effective intercooler. The best part is that every dime of the money spent went into a set up that I consider a "hotrod part". I didnt get into $$'s to fix a over heating problem or any of that stuff. Which reminds me of my GN and the $1000 I paid for the PTE front mount and then another $520 for the Dequick alum radiator. I'm also not cringing my teeth when I drive over a speed bump. That was the case when I ran a BGC stretch in my TTA.
I just wander how many people at the track think I'm taking a leak when I'm standing behind the car and draining the tanks.

All the ladies are probably thinking: "DAMN! its donkey boy!"
Hope this was helpful to any one who is or may be interested in liquid IC's
Jason