Autometer FP Isolator problem.

[HighMileage]

I did it all by the instructions. Drilled my Autometer liquid filled 2 5/8 FP gauge out 3/32. (didn't go too deep),filled it wil the bottle.
Put it together quickly,jumpered the pump...0psi on gauge.

I bled the fuel side of the isolator. Some air came out.,then fuel. Still 0psi.

I didn't spill any antifreeze from their line when putting the gauge and line together quickly.

Maybe I have to unhook the gauge,hold the line up and top that off with the bottle,then quickly install again?

If all else fails,I know where a coupler is! Then,another $100 performance part goes in the trash.

Btw,I know the gauge works. It was just mounted outside. But I hate it there.

Thanks!

 

[salvageV6]

Does the isolator have an anti-freeze bleeder port on it, very small wrench fits it.

Maybe that's all you need to do is bleed that side better?

 

[SHADOWII]

Did you pull the f/p fuse out as a safety precaution and forgot to reinstall it?

 

[HighMileage]

Does the isolator have an anti-freeze bleeder port on it, very small wrench fits it.

Maybe that's all you need to do is bleed that side better?

It does have that tiny bleeder on the antifreeze side. I did open that after I bled the fuel side numerous times by cracking the line open at the bulb.
When I did open that bleeder on the antifreeze side,nothing came out.

...and the pump sure is running. I can hear the fuel rushing thru the rail. Plus,I'm able to bleed the fuel side at the bulb.

 

[salvageV6]

I believe you have to fill the isolator on that side via a tube on a tiny funnel or ear wax remover type bulb filled with anti-freeze solution then quickly put the line on when the isolator is properly bled on the anti-freeze side, assuming you have bled the line by loosening the gauge line at the gauge slightly while adding water/anti-freeze to the isolator end of the hose.

Once bled properly it should work okay, do you have their instructions?

 

[HighMileage]

I believe you have to fill the isolator on that side via a tube on a tiny funnel or ear wax remover type bulb filled with anti-freeze solution then quickly put the line on when the isolator is properly bled on the anti-freeze side, assuming you have bled the line by loosening the gauge line at the gauge slightly while adding water/anti-freeze to the isolator end of the hose.

Once bled properly it should work okay, do you have their instructions?

Mine came already filled and capped on the antifreeze side. One cap was on the fuel side of the bulb. The other was on the end of the antifreeze line.

The instructions said to drill and fill the gauge. Hold the gauge and the end of the antifreeze line upright. Uncap the antifreeze line,then put the gauge on the line quickly.

It also sez that if the fluid is spilled from the antifreeze line,to send the assembly back to Autometer for a refill. I didnt spill any.

I wont have the time to work on it til Tuesday. I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks for the help!

 

[HighMileage]

Well,I'm waving the surrender flag on this FP Isolator thingy.

I actually took the gauge off the antifreeze side,disconnected the fuel side from the bulb,and hooked the gauge to the fuel side.
42psi with the pump jumpered.

Then I filled the gauge with antifreeze again,topped off the antifreeze line (few drops..which went into the threaded area),and put everything together quickly w/o spilling. Got a whopping 5psi...even with the bleeder out ! (??) ..and yes,I held the line so that the bleeder hole was the high point,and put fluid in there,too. It seemed full already. Puzzling.

The thing is going in my Fuel System box. I'm going to Lowes and get the proper fitting to put the 2 braided lines together. Thread sealant will be used. It's a new Autometer liquid filled sport comp 2 5/8 gauge that I'll be using. ....and I'll have to get a Halon fire extinguisher.

I did have the gauge mounted outside. But it was only a matter of time before someone grabbed it,etc.

Oh well,I tried. So far,I've done all of my own work (see sig) with 100% success. This Isolator kicked my a$$.

 

[dynoman]

It sounds like your isolator does not have any antifreeze in it . Every instruction I read said to fill the isolator first and one said that even a little air in the line wasn't that bad. You said you cracked a bleeder screw and nothing came out of the isolator , I would try filling the isolator first . You don't want fuel in the interior. Sam

 

[HighMileage]

It sounds like your isolator does not have any antifreeze in it . Every instruction I read said to fill the isolator first and one said that even a little air in the line wasn't that bad. You said you cracked a bleeder screw and nothing came out of the isolator , I would try filling the isolator first . You don't want fuel in the interior. Sam

Your right. I really don't want fuel in the interior. But we all know of the importance of monitoring fuel and boost in these cars.

The one I received was already filled,along with the line that went from isolator to gauge. The instructions mentioned that if any air is in it,that it will read low. It also states that if spilled to send it back to Autometer. $15-$25 or something like that to fill it again. I'm not doing that.

I tried filling it thru the bleeder hole when I saw it didn't work. It took nothing. Tried filling the gauge end.. It just won't work for me. It won't take anymore fluid. And it won't work.

This thing is one of those things that you really have to screw with. It's hit or miss that you'll get it.
Maybe I should have got the Mallory one.

 

[S10xGN]

Dakota Digital gauge using an Autometer 0 - 100 electric sender for 9 years with no problems. You can also tap into the signal line for logging...

 

[Chuck Leeper]

No fuel in the dr compartment!

What Russ said^^^^^
U can get a sender off the Bag for 1/3 what Summit sells them for.
Send the iso kit back, get an electric ga, and ................

 

[blacksix]

Check with Autometer or with your dealer. Years ago I had the same sort of problem and they supplied me with a new electronic gauge with a sender that mounts on the fuel rail, no cost to me at that time.

 

[Dabigguy]

I bought one years ago and remember something about a certain sequence that you are supposed to hook up the lines. I think there is vacuum in the line from the factory and if that vacuum is released, the gauge will not work properly.

 

[HighMileage]

Thank you for everyones help. I unhooked the gauge,ran the line back thru the firewall and stuck that open end in the hood spring. Now the open end is at the highest point.

I filled the line with the handy bottle and tip. Then I opened the bleeder on the bulb (lowest point). Fluid came out of the bleeder. I added more fluid to the high point. Cracked the bleeder a hair. Fluid came out. Repeat,repeat. ...
There is no air in there now.

Filled the gauge and hooked both together quickly.

39psi with the pump jumpered. I know I have 42. I'm done with thing. I could never rely on it. I'll bet it takes a few psi to flex the diaphragm.

I'm off to Lowes to get a fitting to join the 2 lines,and eliminate the Isolator.

Sometimes you win. Sonetimes you don't. Luckily my fuel system won't hold pressure with the pump off.

I'll have to keep a Halon fire extinguisher handy in the car just in case.

 

[Dabigguy]

How many other gauges have you verified that 42# with? Maybe the new gauge is off?
I'll give you $20 for the broken isolator.

 

[HighMileage]

How many other gauges have you verified that 42# with? Maybe the new gauge is off?

If I screw the gauge into the braided fuel line that goes to the Isolator,I get 42.
If I use the Isolator,I get 38-39.

I *could* just install it knowing it's a few psi low. But how much more is it gonna be off when the psi rises? Blaaaah! Win some-lose some.
I'm gonna call Autometer and Jegs to see if they can do something. I still need a H20 temp gauge. Maybe something can be worked out.

 

[HighMileage]

Today is another day. I tried bleeding it. I even took the antifreeze line off of the Isolator,which Autometer sez NOT to do. I filled the bulb cracked the bleeder open,filled the very end of the line. I even wiggled the open line in case there was trapped air. None came out.

Everything back together. ....25psi. That's it. I'm REALLY done with this gizmo this time.

10 min later... A brass coupling is installed where the Isolator was.
The gauge shot right up to 42psi.

I'll just have to make sure I don't burn to the ground. Luckily my FP drops to Zero when the pump is off. The gauge is mounted where the stereo was.

Now onto the next project...