Bad MAF?, someone reinforce my diagnosis

[87GNPEI]

Ok so in another thread I said about changing plugs and wires etc thinking I may have a problem with those because the car ran absolutely horrible after I changed them, stalling when put into gear, cutting out/missing when the gas pedal was touched at all etc. Finally checked the code and it was 33 and 34, MAF High and low codes, so I did the Tap test on the MAF and it failed the car actually stalled, took it off and it wasn't pretty in there looks like glue of some sort had melted also some small chunks of melted solder, cleaned it all out and car still didn't run well, 99.9 sure it's the MAF what are my options here, used, NOS, I see people using LS/LT Mafs with a translator. Two questions where do you order the translator and also will those sensors fit right in place of the stock one which I think is 3"?

 

[mikestertwo]

You can get the LT1 MAF and Translator from Full Throttle. The MAF does not fit exactly in place of the stocker. The O.D. is slighly larger than the stocker and it is shorter...no mounting holes. It is the best way to go. The LT1 MAF is a lot more accurate and reliable.

 

[Lil Truck]

If you want a stock replacement go to Kirban, they have a well tested NOS rebuilt unit by cardone. Richard Clark also tested it and gat it his approval. I have had one for 3 months and it has worked as good as my 40k stock unit. It has been on the Dyno, track, and street. They will give you a credit on your bad Nos core.

 

[Bescurred]

Anybody else in the area near you with a known good stock MAF?

 

[Shawn N]

There just is not a good rebuilt oem maf nowdays. The one Kirban sells is about as close as it gets but only has a 90 day warranty. If you do the lt-1/translator I recommend the newer Delphi plastic sensor and not the older alum unit. Turbo Tweak sells the newer style MAF.

 

[earlbrown]

Get the translator and a modern MAF and don't look back. Yes it's cheaper than the crap shoot of trying stock replacement after stock replacement... but after you upgrade you're DONE. These cars are fun enough to troubleshoot. There's no reason not to eliminate a weak link when you can.


If you already have an aftermarket MAF pipe set up for a stocker, the LT1 3" will replace the stock unit. The OD is slightly larger but the 3" couplers and K&N will go over the new unit. The only difference is the modern MAF is a little shorter but not enough to be a deal breaker.

 

[whitehot1]

One of the best things i ever did was to add the maf translator and Lt1 maf sensor 15 years ago.

Then when the MaftPro came out and i was able to eliminate the maf sensor completely i could hardly wait to get that maf sensor off my engine for good. I went that direction with the MaftPro and mafless and my car has ran fantastic ever since and never had to worry about any maf sensor going bad again.

 

[87GNPEI]

Ok so it sounds like LT1 and translator is the way to go, so the difference in the outer diameter is close enough that i don't have to replace my stock accordion looking hose going from the MAF to the turbo?

 

[87GNPEI]

??

 

[aminga]

The LT1 maf should fit in the dryer hose.

And I'll throw this out for future searches. The Tap test is not always conclusive for finding a bad MAF.

The Real test is look at the scanmaster or powerlogger data. It should increase smoothly from around 6-7 at idle to 256 at around 13-14 PSI and stay there. If there are dropouts and spikes replace it.

 

[87GNPEI]

What value are you talking about MAF grams per second? The car would hardly hit boost let alone 13-14 Psi so I'm hoping this will fix it two codes a tap test and a look inside the MAF that wasn't too pretty I think I got it fixed

 

[GNICETRY]

I was told by a reputable mechanic that if you so lightly tap the MAF and you have ANY hesitation/stalling then it is no good. If you have access to a good MAF then you could put that on and be 100% sure. My second rebuilt MAF did not code. Do yourself a favor and buy yourself a LT1 MAF and translator (unless you have a showroom stock car). It will save you $$ and frustration.

 

[Shawn N]

Ok so it sounds like LT1 and translator is the way to go, so the difference in the outer diameter is close enough that i don't have to replace my stock accordion looking hose going from the MAF to the turbo?

The LT-1 MAF outer diameter is 3.25" and your stock MAF is 3". Might take a little stretching to get it to fit on the stock air hose side. If you still have the stock air box that may pose a problem getting the elbow to fit on the sensor.

 

[earlbrown]

Ok so it sounds like LT1 and translator is the way to go, so the difference in the outer diameter is close enough that i don't have to replace my stock accordion looking hose going from the MAF to the turbo?

Have you verified your accordion hose doesn't have a hole in it?? That will cause a running condition just like a bad MAF will too.

I can't say for sure on that, but I can say for certian that an aftermarket coupler and K&N sized for a stock MAF will go over a 3" LT1 sensor.

 

[Shawn N]

Good point Earl. Seen it before when they come back and wasted $400 changing out the sensor only to find out it was a loose intercooler hose causing the problem.