Best manual brake setup

[Slow91z]

I'm sure it depends on the rest of your setup, but with S10 rear wheel cylinders and the long shoes I can hold 5 pounds pretty easy...Much more than that and I have to use my transbrake.

 

[oldtimer]

Thanks for that last piece of advice Nick, you're always good for a gem or two. I'll likely order the adapter that Mach0.8 recommends.

Nick, what pedal ratio do you shoot for? Any pearls of wisdom about getting the pedal set up?

What bore size works best: 7/8" or 1" or others?

Do you know what bore size the Wildwood mc is that the fella from Drag Race Brakes sells. I bought his conversion kit and have a more solid pedal now than the PM ever provided since new, but I really have to push hard on the brakes to get it stopped ( way too hard for my liking. I'm thinking that a smaller bore mc would help. I'm using the PM pedal pin position.

I've tried to contact the guy at Drag Race Brakes but get no response.

George

 

[gnxtc2]

Do you know what bore size the Wildwood mc is that the fella from Drag Race Brakes sells. I bought his conversion kit and have a more solid pedal now than the PM ever provided since new, but I really have to push hard on the brakes to get it stopped ( way too hard for my liking. I'm thinking that a smaller bore mc would help. I'm using the PM pedal pin position.

I've tried to contact the guy at Drag Race Brakes but get no response.

George

George

The bore size is 1 1/16"
Wilwood Engineering - Tandem Integral Reservoir Master Cylinder

Don't worry about the harder pedal. I thought the same thing but when you drive it, it'll be a different feeling. I drove my car around and got used to it.

If you have 4 wheel disc, going to a smaller bore might not give you the volume that is required by the calipers.

Some info about bore size:
Mark Williams Enterprises - Brake Technical Information


Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[oldtimer]

George

The bore size is 1 1/16"
Wilwood Engineering - Tandem Integral Reservoir Master Cylinder

Don't worry about the harder pedal. I thought the same thing but when you drive it, it'll be a different feeling. I drove my car around and got used to it.

If you have 4 wheel disc, going to a smaller bore might not give you the volume that is required by the calipers.

Some info about bore size:
Mark Williams Enterprises - Brake Technical Information


Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Hey Billy,

Great information. Thanks a lot.

I have AeroSpace discs on the front ( like Cal and David F's ) and Ford 11 inch drums on the back. I chose the drums for the back as I thought they might give me better staging braking. ( Building initial boost prior to hitting the trans brake button )

I've got a good solid high pedal but I really have to push on the pedal to stop, I mean pull the steering wheel near off getting leverage on the brake pedal.

Stopping at 140+ mph is scary. I know that discs on the rear would be much better in the big end but would the rear discs be worse for pre staging.

That's why I was thinking of going to a smaller bore master cylinder.

Can you build 10 to 15 lbs boost on the footbrake with your 4 wheel discs ?

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks again,

George in ALBERTA

 

[gnxtc2]

George, check your PMs

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[J Banning]

I haven’t had much time to drive it on the street and get used to the manual brakes, but it works. I’ve always run a jumper valve on the car, and I kept it when I went to manual brakes. Aside from a higher pedal effort, I am able to hold the same amount of boost on the line as before (at least 10psi).

I took the pushrod that came with the master cylinder, cut it down slightly, then used a heim jount with a female end on it that matched up with the pushrod. I used a locknut and red locktite on it once the final length was determined.

Overall, I guess I am happy with the outcome, but need more time driving the car to be 100% sure. I’m just not used to driving a car with manual brakes. It stops fine as long as you aren’t a p#ssy about it and tap your foot on the pedal -- instead you have to lift your foot and place it there. Once that is done, the car stops just fine.

Recap of what I did:

• Replaced the OEM powermaster with a Wilwood 260-4894 master cylinder. See my notes in previous post about this NOT being a direct bolt on.
• Drilled the factory brake pedal arm for more leverage.
• Replaced front brake calipers with $25 Autozone reman units.
• Replaced old front pads with new Hawk HB119N-594 street/strip pads.
• Replaced 140k+ mile stock front brake lines with new Russell braided lines.

Hope that helps.

 

[8AV8]

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

I started this converson last night. I guess I should have looked in here first for info...

Why can't I take the MC off of my vac booster and use it? ...Why buy a new one?

 

[oldtimer]

I haven’t had much time to drive it on the street and get used to the manual brakes, but it works. I’ve always run a jumper valve on the car, and I kept it when I went to manual brakes. Aside from a higher pedal effort, I am able to hold the same amount of boost on the line as before (at least 10psi).

I took the pushrod that came with the master cylinder, cut it down slightly, then used a heim jount with a female end on it that matched up with the pushrod. I used a locknut and red locktite on it once the final length was determined.

Overall, I guess I am happy with the outcome, but need more time driving the car to be 100% sure. I’m just not used to driving a car with manual brakes. It stops fine as long as you aren’t a p#ssy about it and tap your foot on the pedal -- instead you have to lift your foot and place it there. Once that is done, the car stops just fine.

Recap of what I did:

• Replaced the OEM powermaster with a Wilwood 260-4894 master cylinder. See my notes in previous post about this NOT being a direct bolt on.
• Drilled the factory brake pedal arm for more leverage.
• Replaced front brake calipers with $25 Autozone reman units.
• Replaced old front pads with new Hawk HB119N-594 street/strip pads.
• Replaced 140k+ mile stock front brake lines with new Russell braided lines.

Hope that helps.

Banning, What rear brakes are you using ? drums ?

George

 

[J Banning]

Banning, What rear brakes are you using ? drums ?

George

Yes, stock drums with big wheel cylinders and shoes.

 

[bmackinnon]

Why can't I take the MC off of my vac booster and use it? ...Why buy a new one?

It's sized such that the vac booster assist is req'd to provide the braking pressure to stop the car with a REASONABLE amount of pedal effort.... you theoretically 'could' use the m/c without the booster, but the pedal effort and resulting stopping power would be the same as trying to stop the car without the engine running... ie. HARD pedal and much reduced braking power even though your about to break the seat back off with all the might of both your legs... M/C's designed for manual applications are sized so that the pedal pressure required is in line with the typical driver's capabilities in terms of leg power....

 

[T- Type Tim]

Here is the rod end nick describes

I measured this to be a 1.03 bore before I honed and rebuilt it