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SignUp Now!I have a couple bits here. they have a couple thousand miles on them.
I will dig them out if you are still looking.
Bob
I have:
Eccentric
distributor drive gear
large bearing
bolt with the bearing in the end of it
small washer
I think the key was left in the cam and discarded.
All the components appear in very good shape
Bob
I have:
Eccentric
distributor drive gear
large bearing
bolt with the bearing in the end of it
small washer
I think the key was left in the cam and discarded.
All the components appear in very good shape
Bob
I have some large bearing holders. That should be evrything you need.
also, make sure your cam is machined for this style retention.
I think there are a couple different styles (although I could be wrong)
Bob
also, make sure your cam is machined for this style retention.
I think there are a couple different styles (although I could be wrong) Bob
You are correct Bob, there are MORE than a couple styles.
We have used the ATR type, the Weber which looks like the pics, and the Danny Bee or TA performance style.
To me, the Danny Bee is the most reliable and most simple set up. It has been used for years on Stage blocks, and the TA alum block is set up for it.
To use this on a 109 block, 3 screw holes must be drilled and tapped for retention.
The Weber set up we have used in the past required the cam gear to be machined, as well as the front cover.
There is also a set up to retain the cam from the rear, but changing cams in the car requires the trans to be removed.
ALL of these different types require each to have specific, unique machine work done on the billet cam.![]()
Just be aware, the parts in the pics above will NOT work with a Danny Bee.
The eccentric and key will be ok, but the rest will not.
let me know what we are doing here. I can kick your paypal back if you need to go in another direction.
Bob