Billet servo

[David Husek]

Confession is good for the soul , I guess . I used the much maligned B&M Transpak . At the time I didn't know any better . Just drilled the spacer plate like they instructed ( street/strip ) . used the spacers they provided for the accumulators . I followed their instruction on the 4th accumulator which I found out later is the wrong way to do it . 10 vane pump with bigger boost valves . I didn't mess with the clearances on the direct drum .

The B&M transpak is a very good kit. It gets no merit. You cannot get in trouble using it like all the rest. It needs a few changes, Leave the spacer out of 4th, install the 4th spring then piston against the plate as they instruct. Drill 3rd to 3/32, second to 3/32 and fourth to 5/64. Install the line bias spring. Install all check balls. Never use a 10 vane pump with a 12" converter and only with a billet pan with a bottom feed filter. Bigger boost valves are ok if you get the correct ones for the combination. Too big a boost valve will require more mods to the pump. Other mods would need to be made if using a higher stall converter, but that would be larger apply holes in the plate and removal of second checkball. Clearance on direct clutch and the band are critical for proper timing. etc......

 

[David Husek]

So tightening until drag might be tighter or looser than .060. The trans oil will provide a layer to keep it from dragging during operation? I guess this is a "feel" sort of thing?

I have been building performance 200-4R transmission for over 22 years, over a 1000 units and I have never set one up too a spec, it would never live. Setting up a "new" band is definitely a "feel" sort of thing as you stated. The drag depends on what band is being used also. When you think the clearance is too tight, it probably can be made tighter.

 

[stovebolt 34]

Thanks David , I'm trying to remember what all I did to the thing . The core I used is late model Oldsmobile . I did block the line bias valve . The boost valves are .500 & .296 with the green Transgo pres / reg spring . I used a 700-r4 TV plunger spring shortened a little bit . The converter is rebuilt D5 . It stalls a little higher than what I'm used to , or so it seems . I'm running a 700 filter with the stock pan . Had to shorten the oil transfer tube . I may think of something else but I think that's about it . I didn't mess with the accumulator valve train . Just wondering if a stronger spring would help ?

 

[TexasT]

Now that is some great info there. I certainly appreciate you taking the time to post it. I've yet to get my first one together but this is a hobby for me.
I'll throw a pm to you with some questions on my band set up and such.
Thanks again.

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[David Husek]

Thanks David , I'm trying to remember what all I did to the thing . The core I used is late model Oldsmobile . I did block the line bias valve . The boost valves are .500 & .296 with the green Transgo pres / reg spring . I used a 700-r4 TV plunger spring shortened a little bit . The converter is rebuilt D5 . It stalls a little higher than what I'm used to , or so it seems . I'm running a 700 filter with the stock pan . Had to shorten the oil transfer tube . I may think of something else but I think that's about it . I didn't mess with the accumulator valve train . Just wondering if a stronger spring would help ?

I would not block the line bias valve, put a heavier spring in it, you don't want it pinned. The 1-2 acc housing should have the taller spring in it. It should stand out of the bore at least a 1/4 inch. A heavier spring in the acc valve can help also.

 

[stovebolt 34]

Would the RED line bias spring ( B&M ) be strong enough ? Easy enough to take the pin out . I think I still have the stock line bias spring . Could it be used in the accumulator valve ? The 1-2 accumulator housing on mine has the sleeve retaining a check ball . I removed the sleeve and put in a new checkball and got a new spacer plate that ATSG said went with the new design ac housing . Just wondered about this design change ?

 

[David Husek]

Would the RED line bias spring ( B&M ) be strong enough ? Easy enough to take the pin out . I think I still have the stock line bias spring . Could it be used in the accumulator valve ? The 1-2 accumulator housing on mine has the sleeve retaining a check ball . I removed the sleeve and put in a new checkball and got a new spacer plate that ATSG said went with the new design ac housing . Just wondered about this design change ?

I dont remember how stiff that spring is, but it should work fine. Be careful how strong a spring you install in the acc valve, it will bind. Both 1-2 acc housings do work well. You should be using an "x" spacer plate.

 

[stovebolt 34]

Thanks much . . . . . . . .

 

[Steve V]

Been a while since we've had a nice tech thread like this, good info!

 

[jpwalt1987]

Dave, what are your thoughts on blocking the 1-2 accumulator like the ArtCarr kits do ?

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[David Husek]

Dave, what are your thoughts on blocking the 1-2 accumulator like the ArtCarr kits do ?

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Blocking the ACC makes for very hard shifts at light throttle, not recommended 99% of the time. Try to keep the 1-2 acc working. Drill a small hole thru it so it will still work at light throttle

 

[stovebolt 34]

David , I just received the X Plate from Genuine GM today . Should I drill 2nd , 3rd , and 4th just as you said on this new plate ? The old CH plate was drilled to those same dimensions as per B&M . There may be some more differences in the two plates that I can't see . Differences I do see are the lo/rev feed orifice is much bigger and is rectangular on the new X plate . The hole to the right of the lo/rev feed (#26 ) is much smaller on the new plate . The rectangular hole on the bottom ( MTV ? ) is a little further to the right on the new one . I might be calling the holes the wrong thing because my expertise is Zero . There'a two more holes to the right of 2nd & 3rd that B&M says to drill . I drilled them on my old plate . Should I not drill drill them on the new plate ?

Thanks for your advice .

 

[TexasT]

David , I just received the X Plate from Genuine GM today .

Got a part number for this plate?
TIA

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[David Husek]

David , I just received the X Plate from Genuine GM today . Should I drill 2nd , 3rd , and 4th just as you said on this new plate ? The old CH plate was drilled to those same dimensions as per B&M . There may be some more differences in the two plates that I can't see . Differences I do see are the lo/rev feed orifice is much bigger and is rectangular on the new X plate . The hole to the right of the lo/rev feed (#26 ) is much smaller on the new plate . The rectangular hole on the bottom ( MTV ? ) is a little further to the right on the new one . I might be calling the holes the wrong thing because my expertise is Zero . There'a two more holes to the right of 2nd & 3rd that B&M says to drill . I drilled them on my old plate . Should I not drill drill them on the new plate ?

Thanks for your advice .

Yes, use the sizes I recommended. Discard the old spacer plate.

 

[stovebolt 34]

X Plate = 8657309

 

[cwmccray]

The B&M transpak is a very good kit. It gets no merit. You cannot get in trouble using it like all the rest. It needs a few changes, Leave the spacer out of 4th, install the 4th spring then piston against the plate as they instruct. Drill 3rd to 3/32, second to 3/32 and fourth to 5/64. Install the line bias spring. Install all check balls. Never use a 10 vane pump with a 12" converter and only with a billet pan with a bottom feed filter. Bigger boost valves are ok if you get the correct ones for the combination. Too big a boost valve will require more mods to the pump. Other mods would need to be made if using a higher stall converter, but that would be larger apply holes in the plate and removal of second checkball. Clearance on direct clutch and the band are critical for proper timing. etc......

David
My spare BQ 200R4 has a B&M Transpak in it. According to your post, leave the spacer out of 4th, install the 4th spring then piston against the plate as they instruct. Does this mean remove the red and blue spacers? I think I do have a upgraded 10 vane pump. According to your post, I should not with a 12" Converter? Also should I check and redrill the 2, 3, 4 feeds according to above. You also stated that Bigger boost valves are ok if you get the correct ones for the combination? What would be the correct valves? I have the B&M replacement with blue spring supplied in the tranny? Is this ok? I was looking to replace with .500 valve, .296 reverse valve and Sonnax Servo

According to post, uther mods would need to be made if using a higher stall converter, but that would be larger apply holes in the plate and removal of second checkball. Which check ball would need to be removed and what holes would need to be enlarged? I am looking to get a 0 boost, 3200 stall. Thank you for the info on B&M. I thought I got the screw buying the 85 tranny w/ B&M kit for $125

 

[TexasT]

We can see of David posts to confirm, but here are my thoughts.

The holes have a lot of different recommendations, depending on who you talk to. I did as David reccomended with the 3/32 and 5/64 as this was in the b&m as well as the level ten instructions I came across. The middle check ball to leave out is the one in the middle of the valve body. There are three and the middle left out creates a harder shift.
I put a nut spacer in the 3-4 to get the spring 1/4" out of the hole also recommend by David. Your call on removing the spacer.
I figured I can drill bigger but making the holes smaller would be a problem.
I think you got a smokin deal for $125

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[stovebolt 34]

Unless someone changes my mind I'm going to drill my new X plate like David says . This seems to be the same size holes that B&M suggests with the Transpak . My old CH plate was drilled the same .

I was poking around last night and found out why they changed the 1-2 accumulator housing and spacer plate on the later models . on the "new design" housing there is a sleeve and checkball and the corresponding spacer plate marked CH . They say the new accumulator will now function as a reverse accumulator also , to soften the "Reverse Garage Shift" engagement . The only diference in the X plate and the CH plate is the holes marked # 26 and hole #3 . The other holes line up on both plates and are the same size . If there's any other differences I can't see it .

 

[TexasT]

Unless someone changes my mind I'm going to drill my new X plate like David says . This seems to be the same size holes that B&M suggests with the Transpak . My old CH plate was drilled the same .

I was poking around last night and found out why they changed the 1-2 accumulator housing and spacer plate on the later models . on the "new design" housing there is a sleeve and checkball and the corresponding spacer plate marked CH . They say the new accumulator will now function as a reverse accumulator also , to soften the "Reverse Garage Shift" engagement . The only diference in the X plate and the CH plate is the holes marked # 26 and hole #3 . The other holes line up on both plates and are the same size . If there's any other differences I can't see it .

Are the holes larger, smaller, different shape?

With mine I think I have to go back in and change the 3-4 to the spring first then the piston as instructed in the b&m instructions. Anyone know what the difference would be with the piston and spring orientation?

 

[stovebolt 34]

Tex , When I got this transmission out of the junk yard it was the latest model I could find . It did have some moisture condensation issues I had to overcome . Had to replace the pump internals , stator tube , turbine shaft and the spacer plate . The spacer plate "CH" was ok after a cleanup but I got a new one same as the old one . I saw something like a service bulletin with a part number for the CH plate . Took longer to get the CH plate than the X plate ( obsolete or discontinued ) . Most of the vendors on here probably carry the X plate .

Thankfully , I saved the unmodified CH plate that came out of the transmission . The 2nd , 3rd and 4th holes are the same size and location on both unmodified plates . Two Holes numbered 26 ( ATSG ) are different in size and shape ( rectangular and larger and one smaller on the X plate . These two holes are right next to each other and I can only assume they have to do with the "Harsh Reverse Engagement" .

The only other difference is hole number 3 . It is smaller and almost square and is directly under hole number 33 on the X plate . On the CH plate hole 3 is rectangular and larger and is under and to the left of hole 33 . All of the other holes line up perfectly and are the same size .

Let me know what you think . . . . . . .