Block Clearancing Required For Stroker Crank?

[~JM~]

Anyone familiar with the building of Strokers able to tell me how much grinding (and where) if any that a 109 Block requires to clear the rotating assembly?

Thank you
~JM~

 

[Nick Micale]

What we do is to mock-up the rotating assembly in the block to determine block, rod and cam clearances.

Usually rods and the block will need grinding.

Be sure you also put in the cam/timing chain when you can do a full rotation to assure the rods clear the cam lobes.

You may have to do 3 or 4 mock-ups before you balance the rotating assembly.

 

[jasjamz]

This is where experience is needed. Nick knows this stuff all too well.

 

[~JM~]

I'm contemplating building my own engine & was checking out the pricing on rotating assemblies. The Stroker option is appealing, just wondering how much clearancing is required.

Thanks
~JM~

 

[Nick Micale]

This is where experience is needed. Nick knows this stuff all too well.

Thanks, but the reason I know a lot of stuff about these turbo cars is because there were LOTS of mistakes and dead ends over the past 25 years!

But it has all been worth it, and I still enjoy working on them especially the ones towed in and the owners drive them home after they have spent hours of frustration on it.

They still can kick my ass occasionally, but never have been defeated yet, always learning something new.

 

[we4Mateo]

Thanks, but the reason I know a lot of stuff about these turbo cars is because there were LOTS of mistakes and dead ends over the past 25 years!

But it has all been worth it, and I still enjoy working on them especially the ones towed in and the owners drive them home after they have spent hours of frustration on it.

They still can kick my ass occasionally, but never have been defeated yet, always learning something new.

Thanks for all your posts of experience and knowledge. I'm always learning something new about these cars too and that really makes it fun. My Dad's TPI car has a translator and alky and now that it's tuned and done, we just have to drive it and it's kinda boring. That doesn't happen with these cars. Your posts definitely prevent a lot of headaches for others, including myself. When I need my stock block gone through, I know I'll be sending it to you, Nick.

 

[turbofabricator]

Depending on the kit purchased, you will usually have to grind the block for the #2 rod bolt clearance at the oil transfer passage on the passenger side of the block. BE very careful to ensure you don't go too far and break into the noted passage. If you do, epoxy in a tube to seal it off. With mild hydraulic roller cams I have not needed to clearance the top side of the rod bolt when using K1 rods. On mechanical roller cams with high lift, that's another story. Same with StageII blocks I've had to grind the main webbing in spots to get teh crank (BMS) to clear. EVERYTHING must be checked and double checked as Nick has stated. With StageII blocks you also have to check all the oil passages to confirm they are even drilled.