Ok guys had to get a new crank due to spun bearing. didnt change pistons only rering stock ones put a roller cam kit in it with heavier valve springs. Car is pretty stock. We keep blowing the o ring out on the oil filter on cold start up on AC Delco filters. My father just put a Napa Golf filter on yesterday so we will have to see how that holds up. Has anyone had to change the pressure relief spring to lower the pressure on a almost stock motor? Would a remote setup help with this? Went through 2 filters in 2 weeks.
Blowing Oil Filters seal out
- Thread starter mackdaddy
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1KWIKSIX
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-are you running a high volume oil pump / gears?
- what viscosity oil are you running?
-may want to try a Wix or Baldwin oil filter next
- what viscosity oil are you running?
-may want to try a Wix or Baldwin oil filter next
Buick Mark
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First, report your cold start oil pressure, then we can make some recommendations. Without knowing your cold start oil pressure, were only guessing.
RmvBfrFlght
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Double check that there isn't two seals in place. That will do it every time. What happens is that on occasion the seal stays on the adapter instead of coming out with the filter. Screw another filter on and there are now two seals and oil all over the place.
RemoveBeforeFlight
RemoveBeforeFlight
The bypass valve in the oil pump cover may be sticking. It is supposed to open at a pressure set by the spring installed with the valve. When it opens oil bypasses the filter. If it doesnt open then you filter see`s whatever your cold start up oil pressue is-which could be blowing the seal.
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m233roller
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20 - 50 Oil ??
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For an engine that was designed and built 50 years ago and now has performance upgrades, that would be an excellent oil choice.
We run 20W-50 year around and have for years with no issues?
My cold start can be 100 psi on a cold morning, but still do not blow out the filter.
With the crank just being replaced, and it now blowing out the o ring, my focus would be an issue on the recent internal work and bearings?
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Toss that Delco filter in the trash, it's outsourced garbage now and not the quality filters they used to be. The NAPA Gold is fine, it's the same as a Wix.
If you want to lower the pressure on relief spring, double up the gasket on the 1" nut. If you start screwing with the pressures make sure you can monitor it to make sure you don't go too low.
If you want to lower the pressure on relief spring, double up the gasket on the 1" nut. If you start screwing with the pressures make sure you can monitor it to make sure you don't go too low.
I have my bypass intentionally blocked and I don't blow out the seal. Are you sure it is the oil filter seal? If you are running an oil cooler there is an O-ring between the cooler adapter and the front cover. As other have said, be damn sure there is not still an old oil fiter gasket there. A double gasket wil make a hell of a mess and never seal.
LEGACY_GN
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Why do you have it blocked. What is the benefit? I know mine maxes at at the 70 psi on startup everytime which I'm guessing means a lot is bypassed and I'm running thin 5w-30
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Help me out Earl,
I do not recommend blocking the bypass. At the very least it will collapse the filter element. In more extreme form it will blow the filter....
It also over strains the pump drive. Just not a good mod IMO.
Rick
I do not recommend blocking the bypass. At the very least it will collapse the filter element. In more extreme form it will blow the filter....
It also over strains the pump drive. Just not a good mod IMO.
Rick
Some people are all anal (giggity) about having 100% filtration at all times. The reason I usually see is that they 'don't want all the crud in the oil pan getting into the engine on startup'
In my case my engine doesn't have crud on the bottom (and my pump sucks off the bottom even after start up). If you have a pan full of crud, you don't need a block bypass, you need a rebuild.
Blocking the bypass will not increase flow and it will most likely decrease it as fluids like to take the path of least resistance. There's not a filter media made that will outflow a straight shot around a filter media. If the pump has the additional capacity to work with, you can shim the pressure relief spring, load the pump harder and get the PSI back at the pressure gauge. Oddly enough this extra pump load with put addition strain on the bevel gears, timing set and cam sensor. (three things that AREN'T pressre fed, but splash fed)
I will agree 'the idea' of 100% full time .000000000001 micron filtration sounds like a good idea on paper. But in a real life street car it's not necessary.
The potential benefit of catching stuff at the exact instance of a catastrophic failure sounds good. But a real life a catastrophic failure is going to tear stuff up whether you've blocked the filter bypasses or not. Since those kind of failures don't happen that often in the grand scheme of things, it's risky to do, because of the other side effects from doing it.
Let's say you're WOT at 125+ and your filter seal blows out from a blocked bypass.... At that point do your really care about 'all the crud in the bottom of the pan'? Not to mention in that example oils not going to the bearings like it's supposed to, it's keeping our back tires from rusting.
Or if you have a blocked bypass that filtered 10 pounds of 'crud' then it collapses and the media becomes compromised. In that instance you'll send a bunch of that captured crud into the engine at once.
this is just my opinion though. I've spent a little bit of time thinking about the oil systems in our cars over the years.... so far I haven't come up with one scenario where blocking the filter bypasses risk is worth the potential reward.
Now if you'll excuse me, I've got my Charlie Sheen outfit on, a cold Corona and it's time to get back to my sex convention and think about other kinds of fluid transfer.
In my case my engine doesn't have crud on the bottom (and my pump sucks off the bottom even after start up). If you have a pan full of crud, you don't need a block bypass, you need a rebuild.
Blocking the bypass will not increase flow and it will most likely decrease it as fluids like to take the path of least resistance. There's not a filter media made that will outflow a straight shot around a filter media. If the pump has the additional capacity to work with, you can shim the pressure relief spring, load the pump harder and get the PSI back at the pressure gauge. Oddly enough this extra pump load with put addition strain on the bevel gears, timing set and cam sensor. (three things that AREN'T pressre fed, but splash fed)
I will agree 'the idea' of 100% full time .000000000001 micron filtration sounds like a good idea on paper. But in a real life street car it's not necessary.
The potential benefit of catching stuff at the exact instance of a catastrophic failure sounds good. But a real life a catastrophic failure is going to tear stuff up whether you've blocked the filter bypasses or not. Since those kind of failures don't happen that often in the grand scheme of things, it's risky to do, because of the other side effects from doing it.
Let's say you're WOT at 125+ and your filter seal blows out from a blocked bypass.... At that point do your really care about 'all the crud in the bottom of the pan'? Not to mention in that example oils not going to the bearings like it's supposed to, it's keeping our back tires from rusting.
Or if you have a blocked bypass that filtered 10 pounds of 'crud' then it collapses and the media becomes compromised. In that instance you'll send a bunch of that captured crud into the engine at once.
this is just my opinion though. I've spent a little bit of time thinking about the oil systems in our cars over the years.... so far I haven't come up with one scenario where blocking the filter bypasses risk is worth the potential reward.
Now if you'll excuse me, I've got my Charlie Sheen outfit on, a cold Corona and it's time to get back to my sex convention and think about other kinds of fluid transfer.
