Blowing oil out of breathers!! Compression test results.

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If you run a pcv line (that's a different debate) it is wise to run a check valve in the line to prevent boost from backing up into the crank case through the pcv valve. Generally they are cheap and don't seal well against boost. I run a stock pcv and use an US Plastics nylon check valve in the line. They last a few years and need to be check but they are very inexpensive and worth the maintenance. You can do a search on check valves and see the options. Excessive boost backing into the crankcase will blow out gaskets so the engine leaks oil, blows oil out the breathers and dipstick tube making a mess and hurts performance. It is also common to run a catch can in the pcv line to eliminate oil into the throttlebody. Now the same general issues will happen if the vents are not free flowing which is what happened to me. My grommets were too restrictive. I had oil out the dipstick and landing on the headers. Now it's also common for normal oil mist to be sent out the breathers and soak them causing oil drips out the vents or vc grommets. There a several solutions to that. One solution to that is instead of a vent right on the vc, a fitting is used and lines going to a remote vented oil catch can is used. The oil collects in the can and not all over the engine. Raising the vents and using baffled gromments (not too restictive).

So, all this info is easily found doing a search which for some reason you seem to be unable or unwilling to do. It's strange to me since you seem to be a long term owner and your engine is a stage block. You really need to educate yourself on how TB engines work and are set up. It would certainly stop some of endless and circular arguments you present. These items may not be the issue with your engine build but even the best built engine will still have some blowby and pressures in the block just from the whirling crank, rods and pistons. In fact some of the highest performance engines use a crankcase vacuum system the evacuates the block at a high vacuum.

One more point. An i.c.e. has some universal pieces. When things go wrong there are a plethora to tests to do to find issues. Some are difficult and expensive to do. Others are relatively easy. Again on the test tree, a leak down test is very common to detect issues you may have. They are not expensive or technically difficult. If you can do a compression test, you can do a leakdown test. You have resisted that test and for the life of me cannot see why. I would want to know at least what the numbers are before spending on anything else. It would also help the rebuilder zero in on a suspect cylinder. I just don't get it.
 
I am telling you I put the RJC in and blm went to 90. this was suggested to me and car ran like shit
 
If you run a pcv line (that's a different debate) it is wise to run a check valve in the line to prevent boost from backing up into the crank case through the pcv valve. Generally they are cheap and don't seal well against boost. I run a stock pcv and use an US Plastics nylon check valve in the line. They last a few years and need to be check but they are very inexpensive and worth the maintenance. You can do a search on check valves and see the options. Excessive boost backing into the crankcase will blow out gaskets so the engine leaks oil, blows oil out the breathers and dipstick tube making a mess and hurts performance. It is also common to run a catch can in the pcv line to eliminate oil into the throttlebody. Now the same general issues will happen if the vents are not free flowing which is what happened to me. My grommets were too restrictive. I had oil out the dipstick and landing on the headers. Now it's also common for normal oil mist to be sent out the breathers and soak them causing oil drips out the vents or vc grommets. There a several solutions to that. One solution to that is instead of a vent right on the vc, a fitting is used and lines going to a remote vented oil catch can is used. The oil collects in the can and not all over the engine. Raising the vents and using baffled gromments (not too restictive).

So, all this info is easily found doing a search which for some reason you seem to be unable or unwilling to do. It's strange to me since you seem to be a long term owner and your engine is a stage block. You really need to educate yourself on how TB engines work and are set up. It would certainly stop some of endless and circular arguments you present. These items may not be the issue with your engine build but even the best built engine will still have some blowby and pressures in the block just from the whirling crank, rods and pistons. In fact some of the highest performance engines use a crankcase vacuum system the evacuates the block at a high vacuum.

One more point. An i.c.e. has some universal pieces. When things go wrong there are a plethora to tests to do to find issues. Some are difficult and expensive to do. Others are relatively easy. Again on the test tree, a leak down test is very common to detect issues you may have. They are not expensive or technically difficult. If you can do a compression test, you can do a leakdown test. You have resisted that test and for the life of me cannot see why. I would want to know at least what the numbers are before spending on anything else. It would also help the rebuilder zero in on a suspect cylinder. I just don't get it.
I did that 20% on number 3
 
I came on here for answers and trying the best I can. I have been on here since 2001 longer than the moderators so have some respect.
 
I am starting to believe you guys just spin the stories I have seen it from seedling. crying to the moderator like a school yard baby in the sandbox. then talking keyboard warrior
 
I came on here for answers and trying the best I can. I have been on here since 2001 longer than the moderators so have some respect.
Longer then the moderators.. come on now.

I've been on this forum before the crash.

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If you run a pcv line (that's a different debate) it is wise to run a check valve in the line to prevent boost from backing up into the crank case through the pcv valve. Generally they are cheap and don't seal well against boost. I run a stock pcv and use an US Plastics nylon check valve in the line. They last a few years and need to be check but they are very inexpensive and worth the maintenance. You can do a search on check valves and see the options. Excessive boost backing into the crankcase will blow out gaskets so the engine leaks oil, blows oil out the breathers and dipstick tube making a mess and hurts performance. It is also common to run a catch can in the pcv line to eliminate oil into the throttlebody. Now the same general issues will happen if the vents are not free flowing which is what happened to me. My grommets were too restrictive. I had oil out the dipstick and landing on the headers. Now it's also common for normal oil mist to be sent out the breathers and soak them causing oil drips out the vents or vc grommets. There a several solutions to that. One solution to that is instead of a vent right on the vc, a fitting is used and lines going to a remote vented oil catch can is used. The oil collects in the can and not all over the engine. Raising the vents and using baffled gromments (not too restictive).

So, all this info is easily found doing a search which for some reason you seem to be unable or unwilling to do. It's strange to me since you seem to be a long term owner and your engine is a stage block. You really need to educate yourself on how TB engines work and are set up. It would certainly stop some of endless and circular arguments you present. These items may not be the issue with your engine build but even the best built engine will still have some blowby and pressures in the block just from the whirling crank, rods and pistons. In fact some of the highest performance engines use a crankcase vacuum system the evacuates the block at a high vacuum.

One more point. An i.c.e. has some universal pieces. When things go wrong there are a plethora to tests to do to find issues. Some are difficult and expensive to do. Others are relatively easy. Again on the test tree, a leak down test is very common to detect issues you may have. They are not expensive or technically difficult. If you can do a compression test, you can do a leakdown test. You have resisted that test and for the life of me cannot see why. I would want to know at least what the numbers are before spending on anything else. It would also help the rebuilder zero in on a suspect cylinder. I just don't get it.

I agree with all this 100%

In my setup I run a stock PCV routed to a catch can routed to an RJC check valve routed to the throttle body.

Then

I run a vacuum pump that pulls vacuum trigged to come on at 7psi boost pulling vacuum from both valve covers then discharging it into a catch can with a large diameter breather.

I run 30-35psi so I wanted overkill but it works great. Both cans catch some oil that would’ve ended up elsewhere.


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I agree with all this 100%

In my setup I run a stock PCV routed to a catch can routed to an RJC check valve routed to the throttle body.

Then

I run a vacuum pump that pulls vacuum trigged to come on at 7psi boost pulling vacuum from both valve covers then discharging it into a catch can with a large diameter breather.

I run 30-35psi so I wanted overkill but it works great. Both cans catch some oil that would’ve ended up elsewhere.


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Agree..

I haven't seen oil in my. Lots of water from e85

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If it’s 20% across the board on all cylinders cold, would we call that abnormal?

I’d call it good.


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Cold. Still would like it less but if it was all even I would be checking other things as well

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20% still well in the green.

But I agree. I’d still just check everything over while there.


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even when I did the compression test warm. then I let it cool down did the numbers again it was same.
 
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