That's kind of an interesting thought.
Does anybody know how big of a wastegate you can put on that style housing?? I think mine is 50mm and has that style flange on it.
Boost control options for the new billet turbos.....
- Thread starter Blazer406
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
That's kind of an interesting thought.
Does anybody know how big of a wastegate you can put on that style housing?? I think mine is 50mm and has that style flange on it.
Well stated.
I couldn't justify the BB option for twice the price and dropping another $1,000+ on an external WG and downpipe doesn't excite me either but blowing headgaskets and hoses off isn't fun isn't inexpensive either.
I think that we'll solve the problem re-porting the hole and I may go to a standard actuator for street driving.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 9,475
I talked to someone at Precision about this months ago.. either Patrick or Harry, I forget. They basically told me there wasnt enough of a market to develop a new exhaust housing to address this. I do think it would be better but when you get to this point, its like someone above said, its better to just go to a 4 bolt setup.
my set up
6765 turbo wg hole ported to match the external wg plunger
atr 3 inch external gate dp
atr ported wastegate
greddy profac boost controller
delete factory wastegate soliniod
no boost problems at all- no creep/over boost -nothing
rock solid reliable performance
6765 turbo wg hole ported to match the external wg plunger
atr 3 inch external gate dp
atr ported wastegate
greddy profac boost controller
delete factory wastegate soliniod
no boost problems at all- no creep/over boost -nothing
rock solid reliable performance
Who's solenoid did you use.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 9,475
The Greddy controller has its own solenoid. Im pretty sure its a single solenoid system. The ISAC will run in either single or dual solenoid mode.
I've got a GBP 3.5" DP with the puck that comes on that setup. Not sure if it's 1.25-1.30" somewhere around that diameter. I have the wastegate hole ported did a little cleanup inside the hole to ensure a smooth transition of air through the hole.
So far I have been able to control boost at 18-24 psi without problems with the HD actuator I bought from Cal and Holly. I'm currently set at 18psi as I was working on some issues and didn't want to push the envelope.
So far I have been able to control boost at 18-24 psi without problems with the HD actuator I bought from Cal and Holly. I'm currently set at 18psi as I was working on some issues and didn't want to push the envelope.
Another thing that could be done to help control boost is that guys could start picking a turbo that is rated closer to the hp level they will be running if they are trying to run a 3 bolt. Im sure they would be running much higher boost levels and the boost creep would be offset by the excess backpressure and allow them to control it easier. An example is the 6262E rated at 670hp. 670hp in a TR will net easy 10.50's. With that said you shouldnt even be looking at a turbo like this unless you are planning on running faster than 11.0 imo. If you are planning on going slower you are over turboed. To run 11.0 with this turbo i dont see it happening on an engine that has a lot of supporting parts such as ported iron heads, cam , intercooler, and the 6262 run under 22psi at full weight. To run 10.50 i dont see it happening till boost is in the 25+psi range. Some will get it done at lower boost but i dont see that as being normal. With that said i dont see why guys are trying to run them at 17-18psi. Another thing to note is that if the 6262 is rated at 670 then the 6265 being rated at 680 is at the least a very conservative rating especially in a 3 bolt application where the backpressure will be very high. That 65 trim ex will make a really big difference up top. For those putting a turbo like the 6262 on an unopened or stock heads/cam engine and planning on under 25psi you have picked the wrong turbo. You wont get anywhere near 670hp even at 30+psi. Im still able to control the boost on mine with an internal a GTQ/S trim turbine in a 3 bolt with a .110 radiused hole and HD actuator and close to 800hp.
You can buy larger pucks. Ive seen them before. Wouldnt be too hard to make in a lathe with some stainless bar stock either.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 9,475
What a turbo is "rated" for and what it actually will make is two different things. We have a billet 114 on a small block ford and it doesn't make 2600 horsepower... its not even close.
Ive explained why this style downpipe doesnt work great with the newer turbos. A bigger puck might help but youre limited as to how much you can actually effectively port that hole.
For those people complaining about the price of pipes and gates, we make our pipes by hand and it takes my fab guy about 9 hours to make one. We charge $70.00 an hour in labor. We probably have another $200-$250 in materials, our cost. That alone is $850.00. We sell them for $699.00 so we're effectively taking a loss.. same thing with the headers we make. I always price them less than the time it actually takes to build them.
At one point people didnt have a problem paying for quality but now that the Chinese sweat shops have moved in, everyone thinks stuff should be dirt cheap.
Ive explained why this style downpipe doesnt work great with the newer turbos. A bigger puck might help but youre limited as to how much you can actually effectively port that hole.
For those people complaining about the price of pipes and gates, we make our pipes by hand and it takes my fab guy about 9 hours to make one. We charge $70.00 an hour in labor. We probably have another $200-$250 in materials, our cost. That alone is $850.00. We sell them for $699.00 so we're effectively taking a loss.. same thing with the headers we make. I always price them less than the time it actually takes to build them.
At one point people didnt have a problem paying for quality but now that the Chinese sweat shops have moved in, everyone thinks stuff should be dirt cheap.
GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
- Messages
- 15,860
Minor upgradeBe sure to post up your results when you start going over 20 psi.+1. Well said.
Your right. Im convinced they will all make at least what they are rated for. However very few are even close to extracting what they are rated for. Most are so far away its almost a joke. Especially on this board. I dont see the point in using something that is oversize especially if the car is street driven and N2O is not used.
Track results coming...all I have to do now is get the powerlogger, wbo2, egt, etc. installed and a base tune.
Been working on the 78 malibu race car. We're trying to pinch 700hp out of my 454 combo, using a new 271/279, .656/.656, 108lsa solid custom grind, lots of head work, and 13.5:1 compression. Looking for 10-teens.
Jay: My comment was not directed at the cost of your DP but the additional cost of having to go to a different wastegate system to control boost. Had I known that I may have chosen a different turbo. I met you at Noble about 10years ago and have no doubt your DP is a first class piece.
My car is a street car that dynoed 560 HP and 724#'s of torque at 4,000 RPMS with an untuned SD TT chip. Timing was 18 degrees and 28#'s of boost using 101 fuel and single line alky kit from Razor. This exceeds the rated HP for the 6265 and I think it still has a lot of HP to gain with tuning.
I'm going to take one more shot at the internal WG to see if we can stop boost creep. I really don't need 26#'s of boost for street driving since our local premium fuel is 91 octane and I don't like taking it in the shorts for an extra $2 per gallon for 93. A stock actuator and RJC boost controller may also help.
I also need to read up on the boost/back pressure discussions since I run an open dump at the track.
Phil Engle
My car is a street car that dynoed 560 HP and 724#'s of torque at 4,000 RPMS with an untuned SD TT chip. Timing was 18 degrees and 28#'s of boost using 101 fuel and single line alky kit from Razor. This exceeds the rated HP for the 6265 and I think it still has a lot of HP to gain with tuning.
I'm going to take one more shot at the internal WG to see if we can stop boost creep. I really don't need 26#'s of boost for street driving since our local premium fuel is 91 octane and I don't like taking it in the shorts for an extra $2 per gallon for 93. A stock actuator and RJC boost controller may also help.
I also need to read up on the boost/back pressure discussions since I run an open dump at the track.
Phil Engle
Similar threads
