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Bosh O2 sensor

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ikle

Active Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2009
Messages
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I am looking to get a few back up O2 sensors and ran across this one at Auto Zone, Bosh O2 sensor # 12013 for $19.99 it has a 1 year warrantee, also if you buy 2 there's a $10 mail in rebate. What do you guys think. Thanks, Kyle.
 
[quote="ikle, post: 3051458, member: 32491"..... What do you guys think. Thanks, Kyle.[/quote]

Since you asked, I will tell you what I think, and why. :)

Personally, I would not use a Bosch O2 sensor if it was free.

When we tried them years ago the readings were very erratic, and they would die in a short time, especially if any leaded gas was used.

We use the Denso O2, and it works, performs better, and lasts longer than any single wire O2 we have tried.

The economics works out better since a Denso will last twice as long as a Bosch. :D
 
The last time I used a Bosch O2 sensor, my Scamnaster read, "000". I will never use one again! Use Denso P/N 234-1001, they are cheap in price and handle leaded 110 octane pretty well:)
 
I use the Denso and when I had the MaftPro I would run it using closed loop (narrowband) for part throttle fueling and it was always very tight around 14.7 on the wideband. So that tells me it was good at maintaining stoich which is it's main purpose. Everything I have now uses wb correction for WOT so I can't comment about how it works in a regular chip car other than it kept my blms close to 128 for all learned cells.
 
I have had a Bosch in my car for 3 years but my car not a race car either. The Alky hasn't seemed to bother it either. Maybe I just got a good one.
 
Denso here.

I buy three at a time and get a little discount and free shipping.
 
I am looking to get a few back up O2 sensors and ran across this one at Auto Zone, Bosh O2 sensor # 12013 for $19.99 it has a 1 year warrantee, also if you buy 2 there's a $10 mail in rebate. What do you guys think. Thanks, Kyle.

This is a fine O2 sensor. Like all O2 sensors,this one won't last long if you run leaded gasoline. It probably won't last through the day.

The Denso will probably last you through the summer if you use leaded fuel . It will also go bad sooner or later if you use leaded fuel.

If you use unleaded fuel,any of them will last a long time.

I don't like the Denso in unleaded fuel applications because it takes much longer to heat up. This can work out good if you have a motor that runs like crap at an idle if it goes into closed loop too soon.

I use the Bosch 11027. It comes without the connector on the end of the wire. You cut your old wire and crimp it to the wire on the new sensor. I don't like the Idea of crimp on connections,so I solder the wire on. It's cheaper than the one you have. I think it's in the $13.00 range.

It doesn't matter which sensor you use if you only use unleaded gasoline.
 
Never used a Bosch o2, so don't have an opinion..... I've always used Ac-Delco o2's, but I've had a Denso in the car for a few months now & so far so good....... :)
 
I've used a Bosch O2 sensor in the past and like Nick and some others, found it to be "more erratic" so I went back to a Delco unit. I just replaced a 3-year old Delco with a NTK 21002 which I wanted to try due to $$ savings. So far so good with NTK.

Oh, my parts list shows the Bosch O2 part number as 0-28851-12014, not 12013. Not sure what the difference is but just wanted to give you a heads up.
 
I don't like the Idea of crimp on connections,so I solder the wire on.

Not a good idea at all. DO NOT SOLDER O2 SENSOR WIRES. Solder will force a failure. First of all, solder won't stick to the stainless steel wire that runs from your sensor to the connector. Second, the solder and flux will clog the oxygen pathway to the sensor and cut it off to the outside world - eliminating the oxygen component necessary for sensor operation.

The sensor needs to sample atmospheric oxygen and compare it to exhaust system oxygen to make a determination on rich or lean. It samples atmospheric oxygen thru the "pipeline" which is the signal wire running internally into the sensor.

Crimping the wire with a proper force using a crimp tool is mandatory.
 
Not a good idea at all. DO NOT SOLDER O2 SENSOR WIRES. Solder will force a failure. First of all, solder won't stick to the stainless steel wire that runs from your sensor to the connector. Second, the solder and flux will clog the oxygen pathway to the sensor and cut it off to the outside world - eliminating the oxygen component necessary for sensor operation.

The sensor needs to sample atmospheric oxygen and compare it to exhaust system oxygen to make a determination on rich or lean. It samples atmospheric oxygen thru the "pipeline" which is the signal wire running internally into the sensor.

Crimping the wire with a proper force using a crimp tool is mandatory.

It works as it should,perfectly.
 
First of all, solder won't stick to the stainless steel wire that runs from your sensor to the connector.

Crimping the wire with a proper force using a crimp tool is mandatory.

After reading this,I went out to the garage to solder an oxygen sensor. It soldered very well. The solder stuck just like soldering any wires together.
Then I though about the fact that I did crimp first,then added the solder to the one on my Regal.
Then I remembered that I soldered only (no crimps) all of the wires on my heated Bosch universal O2 sensor on my 1999 Monte Carlo. The OBD II has never had a problem with it.
 
Look carefully. The wire that goes into the sensor is a teflon jacketed stainless steel wire - a least that's what it's supposed to be. Ordinary copper won't work, it can't handle the heat inside the sensor. And solder,
while it might look like it's attaching to the wire, won't stick to stainless steel. It's the flux that clogs the passageway, so it's a pretty good possibility that it will damage the sensor, but obviously not always.
 
Look carefully. The wire that goes into the sensor is a teflon jacketed stainless steel wire - a least that's what it's supposed to be. Ordinary copper won't work, it can't handle the heat inside the sensor. And solder,
while it might look like it's attaching to the wire, won't stick to stainless steel. It's the flux that clogs the passageway, so it's a pretty good possibility that it will damage the sensor, but obviously not always.

I can understand that the heat at the oxygen sensor would be extreme,however the wires are soldered about 4-5" away from the sensors. They do both work well. If there were any kind of solder clogging,you would think it would happen immediately,but again,they both work well. Perhaps the one that is only soldered (the Monte Carlo) will show some erratic behavior and turn the SES light on in the future. Perhaps it's a good thing that I crimped the one on my Regal in case broken solder joint syndrome rears it ugly head in the future.

The truth be known,our cars are much harder on oxygen sensors than the average car. I think any sensor that I've ever used would have lasted much longer in any other car. In fact they would probably be performing well to this day.
 
I just ordered a Bosch o2 sensor p/n 12014 from rockauto for $9.78 shipped.

The differance between the 12013 and the 12014 is the 12013 does not come with the connector plug attached so you will have to install one to hook it up. The 12014 comes complete with the connector plug installed, so all you have to do is install the sensor and plug in the connector to the engine wiring harness.
 
Sweet,I spent $200.00 for the NTK that I use with my Holley/FJO wideband. The reason I got such a good deal is because I,accidentally, found out that a $200.00 FJO sensor was the same as the $300.00 sensor that Holley tried to sell me. It's a good thing I'm frugal. Just so there's no confusion,I'm talking about the sensor,just the sensor. It's not even gold plated. Heck,it's not even gold colored.
 
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