Bottom end trashed

Take it to a shop for hot tanking and align hone and cyl. bore if necessary. If you don't have the proper tools and never did an engine before I would consider having the shop rebuild it. I had my short block completely tore down and reassembled for 1200. Included the front cover, specing the oil pump etc. Before that I had a headgasket blow and decided to redo the main bearings as well with the exact same type, torqued to spec...2000 miles later they were toast and I had to have the crank turned. These motors are not as forgiving as a Chevy.
 
Update

David Husek said:
Are the bearings clevite 77's? Check. If they are, the non USA made bearing tend to fail in under 500 miles with the damage you see on the thrust. The bearing layers separate. I would not blame the builders work then. I have repaired a few motors for new customers with the same issue. Need any more info, call...... Hope this helps

The crank is fine, the piece that you think broke is normal on many stock cranks. It happens from the balancing from the factory.

You were right on the money, the bearings are clevite 77. I appreciate you taking the time to talk to me and give me advice on going in the right direction, I know you are very busy building others motors, just wanted to thank you!!! Good call from just looking at the pictures.
By the way, I did call previous owner and the motor had about 600 miles on it.......
Have pictures of some very spun bearings if anyone would like to see
 
You asked for it

Here they are in all their toasted glory :eek:
 

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Reinstalation

I thought about the emery cloth. Chose just not to put them back in, now I have a little noise.... cant figure out where it's coming from :rolleyes:
 
Don't forget to clean or replace your oil cooler if you have one, just went threw it. Double check your line bore and clearances. Good luck.
 
The bearings are not that bad. I would just hit them with some emery cloth and re-install.

lol those are toast.. have the crank turned and buy some king bearings so that you will never have to do it again.. the nic in the block is most likely room for the rod cap bolts to spin in the motor without slapping the block its common. there is nothing wrong with the crank or the block just have it turned and have the rods resized also to be 100% safe.. do it right the first time :biggrin: your engine guy...:cool:
 
You were right on the money, the bearings are clevite 77. I appreciate you taking the time to talk to me and give me advice on going in the right direction, I know you are very busy building others motors, just wanted to thank you!!! Good call from just looking at the pictures.
By the way, I did call previous owner and the motor had about 600 miles on it.......
Have pictures of some very spun bearings if anyone would like to see

the question is: Are the clevite 77's A's P's or H's
It matters. See if you can find the markings.
 
Which ones are the best Dave. I know King are the prefered bearings but which ones of the Clevitte are the bad ones?


I have learned today that A's are the worst, and H's are the best. Race engines around here using H's
He also told me A's were useless, far too soft and absorbant.
 
the question is: Are the clevite 77's A's P's or H's
It matters. See if you can find the markings.

the bearings were most likely not the cause of the problem :eek:but it was most likely junk in the motor after the last owner rebuilt it :mad:and did not clean it properly. But yes the a's are the ones you want to stay away from they are only good in the best of filtered motors i am talking drysump with two or more filters and clean oil every week. just replace them with king bearings..
 
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