Break Help!!??

[GNJoe86]

Ok so I have a Stock Powermaster unit and I think its going down for the count. When I hit the break petal There is a split second stall before the actual breaks engage, also the red break light in the dash flashes on everytime I tuch the breaks but goes off after a sec. What part is this or is it the whole unit? Where can I get this part. I was pondering the thought of going to Hydra Boost breaks but after I found out it costs 7 to 8 hundred dollars I just wanna fix my current system. The only think I have done to the breaks is soft compound break pads in the rear and s10 wheel cylinders.

 

[GNJoe86]

Can anyone help!?!?!?!

 

[zeus87gn]

Get a timepiece and run some diagnostics.
See: Powermaster Diagnostics

Pay attention to the Accumulator test and step 2 in corrective actions.
I'll bet you will find you have a bad accumulator.
Hard pedal and/or hard pedal for a moment is a classic sign of it dying.

Feel free to ask questions, I'll respond when I can.

 

[GNJoe86]

Thanks for the info Ill check that out, If it were the acumulator ball where is the best place to buy one.

Thanks again, Joe.

 

[zeus87gn]

Only place that I am aware of to get a new acc ball is either Kirbans or GBodyparts. Don't waste your time with a used one. There are a couple of NOS ones in the for-sale section right now, but you take your chances with ones that have been on the shelf. Kirbans and GBody's are within a year (or so) of fresh mfg.

 

[WO2TURBO]

mine are doing the same thing. all i changed was the wheels cylinders to s-10's and now my brake light comes on. so im glad someone posted this. now i can use the info and troubleshoot thanks

 

[zeus87gn]

mine are doing the same thing. all i changed was the wheels cylinders to s-10's and now my brake light comes on. so im glad someone posted this. now i can use the info and troubleshoot thanks

Pay attention now...
The S10 cylinders don't have anything to do with the light in the dash. That light only comes on when you have the parking brake on or when there is low pressure in the acc ball. It is most likely coincidence that this happens because of the cylinder installation. If you feel that is the case, the acc ball was most likely borderline in the first place.

I would think the important question for your situation is WHEN does your light come on (all the time or intermittently) and did you bleed the brakes properly after the install?

Run the diagnostics to be sure. Feel free to post up if you have questions.

 

[WO2TURBO]

my light never came on until i change cylinders. only comes on and stays on when i push the brake pedal goes off when i let off the pedal. i bleed the brakes like i said on gnttype.org. i did each wheels about 5-10 times.

 

[zeus87gn]

my light never came on until i change cylinders. only comes on and stays on when i push the brake pedal goes off when i let off the pedal. i bleed the brakes like i said on gnttype.org. i did each wheels about 5-10 times.

Was that happening while you were bleeding the system or during normal operation?

If the latter is the case, you're acc is most likely low on reserve pressure. Probably showing those signs of being weak, not necessarily dead...yet. You definetely need to run the diagnostic procedure and check the high pressure side of your system.

If that happened during bleeding, and you had the key on while bleeding, I would believe it. You are releasing the acc pressure in the process and the light would come on when the pressure gets low enough.

 

[WO2TURBO]

yes i had the key on while bleeding. and the light only comes on under normal ops. come to think of it the pedal seems really soft also.

 

[zeus87gn]

yes i had the key on while bleeding. and the light only comes on under normal ops. come to think of it the pedal seems really soft also.

Your soft pedal is your sign. You still have air in your system. Your acc ball is using up its pressure to compress that air and the light is coming on.

Most likely, you have some churned up air that has been introduced from bleeding with the key on and the pump running. Try bleeding the wheels without the acc ball pumped up. The pedal will be hard to push, but it can be done. Pump the acc down, take your time, push the pedal as needed to get flow out the bleeder valves and you should have better results.

Or, get a vaccum pump and you will get even better results without having to pump the pedal.

Damn, I got to get my procedure done!!

Edit: If you would please, let me know how it turns out with your bleeding without the key on. I am very curious to know your results. Feel free to PM or email me directly if you like.

 

[GNXwannabe]

My local "Autozone" has rebuild Powermaster units for less than $400 last time I needed one. I am in Charleston, WV.

 

[GNJoe86]

Thats Great to hear! do they come with any warranty? I'll check with my local auto zone and see if they have them also, Thanks!

Joe

 

[Under Pressure]

Put vacuum boosted brakes on it and forget about it...

 

[zeus87gn]

Put vacuum boosted brakes on it and forget about it...

Naw, that's the cheezey way out.

 

[GNJoe86]

Ya, Last resort. When the weather gets warmer or I break down and buy a heater Ill find out what is wrong with the current settup and maby just replace a part and be done, I hope!

Thanks guys, Joe

 

[Under Pressure]

Naw, that's the cheezey way out.

If you say so my brakes works great

 

[zeus87gn]

If you say so my brakes works great

I'm sure they do. I was just messing around.
No offense meant.

 

[GNJoe86]

:biggrin:

 

[Under Pressure]

no offense taken ...good day !