Breaking up

SHADOWII said:
Hey Bo, this may sound elementary, but have you tried raising the hood in the dark to check for leakage, or tracking from the wires or boots? It takes 20kvolts to jump an arc 1", @40kv that's a 2" arc. I have found bad boots and jackets shorting to the nearest grounds, (i.e. valve cover, screw, etc.) by just opening the hood in the dark. Have the wife rev the engine if need be.
I had one arc to the valve cover where the insulation started to break down on the jacket. Couldn't see it in the day light but it glowed in the dark.
Click to expand...
I will try that.
 
New TR6 didnt solve it either..... this confirms my coil pack testing.It is much better, but still has a little breaking up. I kept the plug gap at .020 but I really dont think that would have anything to do with it.
I watched FP rise and stay where it needs to be. Valve springs are 150psi and new along with the whole head assembly. I just dont know. Maybe a bad plug?
I have the non resister plugs still laying around.
 
Unplugged cam sensor and car dies. Assuming this is from the TR6. But I checked the diagnostics and everything was green and the RUN was blinking green?

I did find out that the car will break up at 5k-5200 RPM with NO boost. So this is not a boost issue. Im gonna start doing this instead of introducing boost into the system until I get it figured out. I am running out of time for today.

Any suggestions?
 
Whats your valvetrain? Roller cam? Do you have adjustable rockers? If so whats your preload? And did you confirm pushrod length woth new heads?
 
Last edited:
14.5v throughout a 3rd gear pull
roller cam 214/214 .548 lift with 1.65 T&D roller rockers
Preload is .025 -.030 and I bought new length push rods They came out to like 8.80IIR
 
Not sure on TR6 but the factory ign module will continue to run with the cam sensor unplugged but it puts it in batch fire mode. I recently repaired a car local that would run fine up until 2200 to 2500 rpm and it was the cam sensor cap. Never put a code for cam sensor either. Pull cap and look and see if its hitting.
You could try swapping the cap with a known good one. Have also seen a bunch of metal filings on the caps magnetics causing break up issues at higher rpm's.

And for sure your rev limiter is set high enough?
 
Rev limit set point? And its just two screws to pull the the cap and take a look and see.
 
turbo nasty said:
Rev limit set point? And its just two screws to pull the the cap and take a look and see.
Click to expand...
No rev limit as I use alky for chemical intercooling on the stock coil pack. The TR6 isnt set up for anything as of now.
What should I look for? cracks? wear?
 
Pretty sure tach is for verifying CS setting and the LEDs are for actual errors. Do you have safety mode on? The cam sensor is a common thing thats there with both stock and Tr6 ign systems and your breaking up issue stayed with both. Time to take a closer look at the cam sensor...good luck and let us know

http://www.tr6.bailey-eng.com/TR6 User Manual 1.1.pdf
 
turbo nasty said:
Pretty sure tach is for verifying CS setting and the LEDs are for actual errors. Do you have safety mode on? The cam sensor is a common thing thats there with both stock and Tr6 ign systems and your breaking up issue stayed with both. Time to take a closer look at the cam sensor...good luck and let us know

http://www.tr6.bailey-eng.com/TR6 User Manual 1.1.pdf
Click to expand...

The TR6 sets a code off in the tach signal like a code flashing if it detects and a sensor bad not just set CS , TR6 is amazing

The TR6 performs diagnostic checks of the sensors and signals, and will blink error codes on the red LED as well as making the tach output “blink”. The user can read these codes to assist in troubleshooting a failed or intermittent sensor.
 
Back to preload. What are the symptoms of too much vs too little. I only read about the performance aspect of it.
 
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