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Broken Gn1 rocker stand

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I think these will be a huge improvement in holding things in the proper place. T&D had the studs I needed. They are 2.70 long with coarse thread on bottom and fine thread on top. I'll post updates with pics.
 

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Well there's been a change of plans.......
After talking with my machinist I pulled the heads off. I have a bad feeling that the cast aluminum stands are going to break. I will be ordering the adapters from T/A. My machinist will mill off the aluminum stands and setup the adapters for the proper valve train geometry. Do y'all think that I should use a timesert in the head it just have him tap the aluminum ? Thanks
 
Free running helicoil is fine, you don't want to remove any more metal than required, save the repair inserts until you screw up the helicoil thread.
If it was better the F35 parts I build would have them...they don't
 
Update : after talking with Tom@Champion and my machinist we decided to repair the cast rocker tower. Tom said they do it all the time by just building up the tower with welds then remachine everything. Had a new shaft from T&D come in also. The studs will not work as the coarse threads aren't long enough. The broken piece was tack welded in place with shaft helping to locate it. Where the crack was located was ground all the way in to the bolt hole then welded back out. This way it is a solid piece with no crack at all. The hole was rebored and the helicoil installed. The side of the rocker tower was then clearanced for the spacers on the rocker shafts. I believe this will be as good as original as far as strength. I may wind up removing all the springs and turning down the guides from .530 to .500 and using different locators and seals.
 
Almost ready to go back in the car!! Cleaned and painted a few things while it was apart too.
 

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did you get the TA studs? how long is the coarse end? What did you wind up doing for studs/bolts?

Bob
 
TurboBob said:
did you get the TA studs? how long is the coarse end? What did you wind up doing for studs/bolts?

Bob

Bob, I got the T/A studs but they didn't work. They were more like carb studs. I went back with new grade 8 bolts and washers. I bought the bolts a bit long then ground them to length so I had maximum possible length. I didn't call ARP to see why they had available. Maybe one of the vendors could get a kit put together. That would be awesome.
 
can you take a pic of them, I'm putting GN1's on my new engine project (a collection of others' unwanted junk), and want to use studs.

It looks like 5. - .75" of coarse thread on the bottom end will work on them the way they came from Champion. I'm running a very mild roller setup.

Bob
 
TurboBob said:
can you take a pic of them, I'm putting GN1's on my new engine project (a collection of others' unwanted junk), and want to use studs.

It looks like 5. - .75" of coarse thread on the bottom end will work on them the way they came from Champion. I'm running a very mild roller setup.

Bob

Can't take a picture because I sent them back. They were from T&D not T/A. Sorry. I would check to see how far the insert goes down into the hole. Measure it and get as much thread engagement as you can. The holes on mine measured .9375 deep. Not sure where to get studs that will fit properly. I am running PAC 1203 springs and .540 lift. I know studs are ideal but bolts are hanging in there with my setup so you will definitely be ok.
 

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Everything still together?

Bob


Still together and going strong!! I need to fine tune some areas of my SD chip and fix an exhaust leak that's giving me trouble. Haven't made it to the track either. :(

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
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