1. The driveshaft was installed (as hoped, no mods were needed).
2. I had to find a way to get engine vacuum from the stock tube to the location of the vapor canister. A 1/4" brake line was bent and routed through the alternator bracket, and one of the unused factory exhaust studs was relocated to the bracket and provides a good place for a clamp stand-off.
3. The firewall location for the engine wiring was located and created. The hole is in a good location to clear the heater box and cable on the inside, while being in a relatively convenient spot for the circuits on the engine compartment side. It's a 1 1/4" hole with a Dayco universal firewall grommet sourced from Summit.
I begun the long process of wiring over the weekend, and made a significant dent in it.
Firstly, I laid out the location of the Ron Francis wiring panel and location for the stock ECM. I decided to put them under the bench seat, since there is so much room and accessibility is pretty simple (once the seat is removed). The wires come through the firewall via the grommet placed in the previous update, route between the firewall and heater box, and exit in the area of the transition of the firewall / trans tunnel / floor.
The circuits for all the sensors are plugged in, routed along the engine in areas which allow disconnection for engine removal, and everything was covered with braided wire shielding. The bundle runs along the drivers side valve cover in the stock location.
I still need to wire the MAF, vapor canister solenoid, air temp, cooling fan, and vehicle speed sensors. Then on to final assembly!
Thanks for the kind words. I'm not really considering modifying the engine at this point, but it's on the table I guess.
I've built/owned a number of cars over the years - '68 Chevelle, '76 Vette, '63 Nova, '64 Chevelle, and a '62 Skylark - but this particular combo is the one I've been specifically dreaming about for the last 15 years. I'm so focused on getting the engine transplanted and the car running that I haven't had time to consider making it anything other than stock.
Doing a 3/8" or a -6 return line shouldn't bee too difficult if I decide to go that way in the future, if I decide I want a rocketship..
Finished the remaining wiring. Although the Ron Francis kit makes it simple, it is still very time consuming if you want to make everything look right. Routing through the engine compartment in areas where harness removal will be easy in the event of engine servicing, finding spots for the circuits to enter the car, tying in to the existing harness for main and ignition power sources, locating a place for the bundles, junction panel location, and cutting/terminating all the circuits take a lot of time. A LOT OF TIME.
I am pleased with the finished product, but it was late enough last evening that I didn't get a chance to try and fire it. I'll do that tonight after work.
Based on my other thread, I’m pretty sure the root of my issue is 1) bad injectors and 2) possibly MAF sensor. The injectors are original to the engine (I guess I shoulda seen that coming), and the MAF is a rebuilt unit from AC Delco, which I gather is likely providing bad readings. I have some injectors on the way, and I’ll try those first.
I have the gauges installed, although the boost gauge is not yet hooked up. I still have to run the vacuum line to the passenger compartment, and haven't decided the best place to pierce the firewall. Also, the Scanmaster is attached with a simple self-adhesive velcro strip.
The MAF sensor and translator did the trick! I'm up and running... Although without power steering for some reason. I'm leaning towards that BMW reservoir, which contains a fluid restrictor, as the culprit. I'm trying to verify that via other forums.
That didn't keep me from taking the car for a ride though. What a rush!