Cam button and Timing chain question

[fog]

Firstly, where to get the cam bolt that would have an integral roller bearing on the bolt head. I had this when I aquired the engine but broke it and substituted to a normal one. It is clearly rubbing the front cover and I cant shim it less. I'm using racepumps fuel pump, and the tolerance between the pushrod and chain is small. So in order not to let the cam walk forward, I would need to shim it .001 but I would feel better if that bolt head that contacts the front cover would have a torrington bearing.

Secondly, what makes the timing chain go "stiff". The links are not free to pivot as they should. The chain has 5 passes on it.
I had the fuel pump interference issue before and the chain grinded the pushrod, I dremeled out the pushrod sleeve, replaced chain and now with new chain same issue, mut it has not rubbed, there are no marks on the chain or the pushrod sleeve. But still, the chain has gone "stiff".

Thanks.

 

[fog]

I think I'm getting closer to the stiffness issue. The #1 main on the BMS crank has nicks on the side so the chain pins have defiantly contacted crank. But what can I do about it? is there a spacer for the smaller sprocket or should I machine down the #1 main a little?
Has anyone had the same issue before?

 

[ek02]

TA Performance has several different cam thrust bearings. If you have the odd fire style cam with threads in the nose, TA ROL 150D would probably work.

 

[6cylboost]

stiffness issue? na never

 

[fog]

TA Performance has several different cam thrust bearings. If you have the odd fire style cam with threads in the nose, TA ROL 150D would probably work.

Thanks, that ROL150 was what I had, It looks like the -D option does not have bearing.

 

[BlownV6]

I think that Comp cams has wat you need. I dont know what the part number is though. Mike

 

[fog]

Pic of the crank #1 bearing where the chain pins have made their mark. What can I do about it? grind the #1 race down?

 

[Nick Micale]

Since BMS cranks were machined by different shops for different applications, they all are not the same?

Even some stock GN engines used a spacer or 2 behind the crank gear for proper spacing, and you certainly need to do that.

Did you check cam/crank gear alignment when installed to see if it was running true and not off-set?

You are lucky the chain did not break in the short time you had it running!

Instead of that roller bearing retainer, I would change it to a Danny Bee style retainer if the cam can be machined for it.

 

[fog]

Even some stock GN engines used a spacer or 2 behind the crank gear for proper spacing, and you certainly need to do that...

Where could I acquire one? or just mill one from a leftover sprocket?

Did you check cam/crank gear alignment when installed to see if it was running true and not off-set?

It is quite true, I would prefer getting it even closer to the block, since I have the fuel pump pushrod interference issue.

You are lucky the chain did not break in the short time you had it running!

Third chain in ~50 passes Last year I also broke one but was to newb to notice the pin interference issue.

Instead of that roller bearing retainer, I would change it to a Danny Bee style retainer if the cam can be machined for it.

Hmm, or even gears?

 

[Nick Micale]

On the stock GN engine an oil slinger is used which will space out the crank gear. To make a spacer or 2, the simple thing is to cut down an oil slinger and it appears you have one installed.

I have broken a few chain in less than 50 passes, but now use a different roller chain that seems to be much better.

The next time I replace the chain set I plan to use the new TA link set with billet gears and a chain tensioner.

 

[fog]

On the stock GN engine an oil slinger is used which will space out the crank gear. To make a spacer or 2, the simple thing is to cut down an oil slinger and it appears you have one installed.

I have broken a few chain in less than 50 passes, but now use a different roller chain that seems to be much better.

The next time I replace the chain set I plan to use the new TA link set with billet gears and a chain tensioner.

The oil slinger is in the wrong end of the timing gear, I need something between the crank and the sprocket, not between the sprocket and the damper nose.
But I think I'll drop the crank off to the machinist and tell him to cut a ledge to the #1 main bearing race. That would solve the issues.
Cam button and new chain is ordered from TA.

 

[fog]

More teardown questions. Is this half-moon shaped thing at the lower-right I see a piston-slap?

 

[fog]

Okay, the "slap" is actually piston kissing the head in good english Anyhow, ordered new head gaskets 0.070" thick instead of 0.045" thick, that should cure the issue.

Got the crank back from machining and measured the alignment of the pullies, the cam sprocket is more sinked 1mm(0.040") when it has no slack on the button. Is this in "allowable tolerance" ?

Also, looked at lobes versus lifter bores, and it seems I should cure the issue with allowing the cam to walk out a little more.

 

[turbofabricator]

What is your engine combination to help answer your questions
Details are very important when giving advice via a internet forum. Everything you are experience Ingram we all have felt with at one time or another. If not then all you've ever built is a small block Chevy that makes 350 HP. What pistons, rods, stroke, cam style and lift/duration along with intake centerline (installed) manifold, Carb/EFI, HEADERS, trams vehicle and just about everything you can think of. What block and timing cover/oil pump does it have, too.

 

[turbofabricator]

What is your engine combination to help answer your questions
Details are very important when giving advice via a internet forum. Everything you are experience Ingram we all have felt with at one time or another. If not then all you've ever built is a small block Chevy that makes 350 HP. What pistons, rods, stroke, cam style and lift/duration along with intake centerline (installed) manifold, Carb/EFI, HEADERS, trams vehicle and just about everything you can think of. What block and timing cover/oil pump does it have, too.