Can i mill off locwire reciever grooves?
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Just do a clean-up surface cut on the heads and put them on with the stock gaskets. Works fine.
Mr URL
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Do you have the new or old style gaskets? The old ones leaked around the water ports but the new ones fix that problem. I installed mine according to Cal's directions and not one leak yet. Few of us around here use them with success.
Mr URL
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Here is what Cal told me to do:
I put a light smear of Permatex over the deck surface, install the gasket, then permatex the head surface and install it. I then torque the heads let them sit overnight then retorque.
Yes, use Ultra Copper. I have used Ultra Blue several times, but the copper doesn't dry as fast. I brake clean the block, then put a light smear on the entire deck surface. Just do enough to cover it, but not be transparent (if that makes any sense). Then I set the gasket in place and take a clean rag and wipe all the extra sealer on the deck that is inside the bore opening in the gasket (you will see, the gasket bore is 4.060, while your engine bore is probably 3.820). I make sure the gasket is pressed in place. Then I go to the head surface. I coat it just like the deck surface, doing everything OUTSIDE the receiver groves.
Torque it in the sequence on the package. I usually do it 30#, then 45#, then 60#, then 75#. I then let it set overnight and loosen one and then retorque it, then do the next one, etc.. I do them in the order of sequence. I use ARP thread Sealer with 10W30 oil under the washer and bolt head
Cal Hartline
I put a light smear of Permatex over the deck surface, install the gasket, then permatex the head surface and install it. I then torque the heads let them sit overnight then retorque.
Yes, use Ultra Copper. I have used Ultra Blue several times, but the copper doesn't dry as fast. I brake clean the block, then put a light smear on the entire deck surface. Just do enough to cover it, but not be transparent (if that makes any sense). Then I set the gasket in place and take a clean rag and wipe all the extra sealer on the deck that is inside the bore opening in the gasket (you will see, the gasket bore is 4.060, while your engine bore is probably 3.820). I make sure the gasket is pressed in place. Then I go to the head surface. I coat it just like the deck surface, doing everything OUTSIDE the receiver groves.
Torque it in the sequence on the package. I usually do it 30#, then 45#, then 60#, then 75#. I then let it set overnight and loosen one and then retorque it, then do the next one, etc.. I do them in the order of sequence. I use ARP thread Sealer with 10W30 oil under the washer and bolt head
Cal Hartline
Mike Licht
I was here first
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Nick,
Really..!??? How many times have you done that? I always wanted to try it but never had the nerve. Never saw a reason way it would not work though. Even thought about putting a wire in the block under the groove to use with stock gaskets but was unsure of the fire ring distortion and what would happen. I never really ever had a problem with Loc-Wires though either. With them it is ALL in the groove cutting and IMO PTE is the only one I know of who can do it right. Nice job Nick.
Mike
Really..!??? How many times have you done that? I always wanted to try it but never had the nerve. Never saw a reason way it would not work though. Even thought about putting a wire in the block under the groove to use with stock gaskets but was unsure of the fire ring distortion and what would happen. I never really ever had a problem with Loc-Wires though either. With them it is ALL in the groove cutting and IMO PTE is the only one I know of who can do it right. Nice job Nick.
Mike
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Well thanks Mike!
The 2 sets of heads that I did most certainly were NOT done by Harry at PTE. They were way off, and the set of Champion's [done by a local ??] only lasted a few miles. So it was a case of trash these new heads, or make them work? So far so good.
The set of iron heads I did not seem quite right, so we used 2 steel shim '84 gaskets after a .005 clean-up cut. So far they have been 10.90 in the owner's car and still fine.
Another set of iron heads I sent to Harry a few years ago have been no problem as they were, as you said, cut properly.
The 2 sets of heads that I did most certainly were NOT done by Harry at PTE. They were way off, and the set of Champion's [done by a local ??] only lasted a few miles. So it was a case of trash these new heads, or make them work? So far so good.
The set of iron heads I did not seem quite right, so we used 2 steel shim '84 gaskets after a .005 clean-up cut. So far they have been 10.90 in the owner's car and still fine.
Another set of iron heads I sent to Harry a few years ago have been no problem as they were, as you said, cut properly.
Mr URL
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I'm using PT&E ported and polished heads on my car with the 1007's. Other guys are using Champion heads besides one which I don't know who installed the grooves but it's working OK so far.
Mike Licht
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Hate to start another flame deal (did enough of that recently) BUT, although I have nothing but respect for Champion and the all the things they do, the two times they cut grooves for us the gaskets failed quickly. Sent same heads to Harry (who said they were wrong) he fixed them and we never had another problem.
In fact I wrote an article for the GS Extra years ago on this topic and the installation of the 1007's at the request of the GSCA since I was having such good luck with them. I stated in the article that I would only recomend PTE to cut grooves, when it was published it said PTE and Champion. when I questioned the "editor" of the GS Extra he said that they have a "good relationship" with Champion and needed to make that change, whatever that means.
Mike
In fact I wrote an article for the GS Extra years ago on this topic and the installation of the 1007's at the request of the GSCA since I was having such good luck with them. I stated in the article that I would only recomend PTE to cut grooves, when it was published it said PTE and Champion. when I questioned the "editor" of the GS Extra he said that they have a "good relationship" with Champion and needed to make that change, whatever that means.
Mike
Mr URL
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How where they failing? Coolant leaking or ring actually blown loosing compression?
THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE REPLIES. MR URL, I was getting milkshake once too many times. the fire ring appeared normal as coolant never entered the combustion chamber. ive tried the silicoe methods and now im just fed up. does anyone still use the blue felpros or those graphite headgaskets anymore. does anyoe have any opinions about the compression ratio increase?
TIA
surej
TIA
surej
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