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Car cutoffs for/SES flashes just for a second...ideas

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Could be the chip too I had one like that went into kill fuel while driving down the highway. :eek:

Got a new one from TurboBob, with no anti-theft in there, (I have a kill switch too in this car) and it hasn't done it since. :cool:

I just "fixed?" my intermittant code 42, a separate problem, by removing the USB cable out of the kick panel, gonna redo the strain on the powerlogger/wiring in the kick panel when I get a chance.

Hasn't happened in a couple of days but then again it's been 15 degrees cooler too outside.....
 
Only does it after its been running a while and everything is up to temp.
New engine and Caspers wiring harness in the car, grounds are upgraded and secure.
New alternator and 4 gauge power wire.
Starter stud and fusible links secure.
Voltage under hood 14.1 and 13.2-7 in the car.
It happens randomly...at idle in traffic car will stall and and does not want to start back up. Almost like the chip jumps back into antitheft even tho it's disabled. But, will eventually restart after several attempts and going through antitheft procedures.

Driving at speed feel the car die and the SES flashes for a blip and then all is well.

I have logged this and all info in power logger drops completely just for that instance and comes right back.

Ignition switch is my next check as I have cleaned the c100 connector and fuses, ECM feed by battery checked and its good. Also, chip socket and power logger card connections.

With that said the chip, ECM and/or pl could be a issue on electronic internal level with heat I guess.

Any ideas
Been there on this one it was the powerlogger for me. Bob sent me a new chip,tried coil/module,battery cables,3 ecus,fuse links,grounds,battery,mafs,translators,cam sensor,crank sensor....finally unhooked it and it never did it again. Sent it to Bob and he sent me another and cars is still fine to this point.
 
Been there on this one it was the powerlogger for me. Bob sent me a new chip,tried coil/module,battery cables,3 ecus,fuse links,grounds,battery,mafs,translators,cam sensor,crank sensor....finally unhooked it and it never did it again. Sent it to Bob and he sent me another and cars is still fine to this point.

interestingly, that PL is still in my car...... It was most likely some issue with the connector fingers on that ECM not liking that particular PL.

Bob
 
Drove to work this morning and all was fine. Went out for lunch and car did it 4 times in a row. I noticed the radio was cutting off and on with it as well. So thats leading me to ign switch, fuse panel, etc.
 
definately a primary power issue.

battery..positive cable..fusible link..fusebox..switches..negative cable......


time to start wiggling stuff.

Bob
 
Agreed...im gonna get the voltmeter and start checking voltages at the fuses and the ign switch for starters.
 
Take a breath mr goodwrench lol. Gonna tear into it tommorow.
Did some underhood volt checks and did find a side lil deal..... im going to ground the Gn1 alum radiator as its holding .23 vdc from electrolysis.
 
Ignition switch changed, problem still there. But radio didnt cut out this time?????

Original switch had one pin a lil darker than the rest which looked like maybe it was getting warm from dirty contacts but when i took/pryed it apart contact surfaces werent terrible...worn but nothing real bad. Either way simply due to age i feel better with it replaced.

Im going to try another ecm and then if its still there....pull the fusible links back off the starter again and triple check them.
 
" It happens randomly...at idle in traffic car will stall and and does not want to start back up. Almost like the chip jumps back into antitheft even tho it's disabled. But, will eventually restart after several attempts and going through antitheft procedures. "

Try a spare chip with no anti-theft or double and triple check the PL connections.

I'm guessing if the PL cabling/pins/fingers short out, the chip gets reset to defaults which with an anti-theft one is enabled and it kills the car even if running.

Just my observations from what I've seen, maybe Bob can further clarify that scenario.

I still need to work on my connections, I'm gonna buy a new or used cover for the ECM and cut a decent sized hole in it for the cable end to clear and make lots of room to allow the powerlogger to seat right and be supported properly.
 
Good points, im just going to try another ecm with no PL hooked up next and if its fine then I will add the PL and go from there.
I dont have a spare chip for these inj on this new build so im out on that.
As far as the ecm cutting and such you can swap the already cut cover from one ecm to the next just swap the board/guts.
 
I think he meant the kick-panel.

If you need some help on the chip, drop me a PM.

Bob
 
Yeah I meant the kick panel where the cable comes out, mines a bit interfered by the plastic there and how it all lines up, I even got one of those cool right angle USB cables too.

Bob is the man! He'll help you out.

James TTAOwner, can hook me up with a used cover, so I can hack...... errrr modify it for a better fit. :)

Plus he's located on the drive home from work, easy TR parts shopping. :cool:
 
Ok new ign switch...still stalls but no radio cutting out.
Tried another ecm without the pl and so far so good drove around for 45 minutes or some rough streets and never had a blip.
 
Drove all over creation yesterday and never had a issue. So it was thw ecm or powerlogger for sure.
Still gonna try the other ecm without the pl to narrow it down.
 
I was just fighting the same issue only it was only under heavy throttle...I too suspected the power logger connection, but after changing out ecm's it was still there...Took the car to a buddy of mine on the board and magically it was gone?? I'm sure it will be back!! Hopefully yours won't!!
 
Put the old ecm back in without the pl and no issues yet. Seems the pl is the culprit.
 
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