Car Jerks

[madhat]

My car jerks sometimes when I am just cruising, but it also does it during even mild boosting....it acts like maybe a bad U-joint(you know, when in a manual w/ tired U's, you mash the accelerator then quickly get off of it and it jerks you around), but my dad said that I wouldnt notice it during accel if that were the case...my plugs/wires/coil pack are all good. I checked them the last time I was having this problem. It seemsed to stop when I checked my bellhousing bolts...but I checked them when it started doing it again and they are all tight and the trans is properly secured to the back of the engine. Could it still be the u-joints? It has even jerked so hard before that it caused me to blow off. I have a slight leak on my front trans seal(I make sure it is full until I have the time to pull it down again), could this somehow cause it? Any suggestions?

Thanks
Wesley

 

[madhat]

I am going to check my U's and my intercooler tomarrow(maybe somehow the intercooler needs to be cleaned and it is somehow causing this even though it didnt last time it needed to be cleaned)...I'm despirate for ideas...does the fact that one day my intercooler to intake pipe popped of @ 5# and it had taken numberous 12-14# before help?

 

[2QUIK6]

Could be the torque convertor not unlocking, especially if it does it at cruise speeds, or it could be unlocking prematurely if you are at cruise (no acell/no de-cellerating) and it does it. When my lock solenoid went bad it surged real bad when slowing down say under 20 mph and then trying to accellerate again from low speeds. If it is that, its easily changed by dropping the trans pan and its right there with a few wires attached to it.

 

[Gary Wells]

FWIW & IMHO:
If it were u-joints, you would only notice the jerking when changing the cars direction of motion from forward to reverse. If it were u-joints, you would hear a very noticable and audible click in reverse, and going slow around corners. Doesn't sound like u-joints. Bad u-joints can also be detected sometimes when the car is in park and you rock it backward and forward, changing the direction of the load/pressure placed on the u-joints. torque converter locking/unlocking incorrectly.

 

[TurboJim]

Originally posted by Wells
FWIW & IMHO:
If it were u-joints, you would only notice the jerking when changing the cars direction of motion from forward to reverse. If it were u-joints, you would hear a very noticable and audible click in reverse, and going slow around corners. Doesn't sound like u-joints. Bad u-joints can also be detected sometimes when the car is in park and you rock it backward and forward, changing the direction of the load/pressure placed on the u-joints. torque converter locking/unlocking incorrectly.

Not really, a binding joint would cause it to do it all the time. Take a look at the joints, if you see rust coming out where the cap goes on (like rust color coming from the rubber seal) then the joint IS bad. Whther it is your problem is another matter.

 

[Gary Wells]

Originally posted by TurboJim
Not really, a binding joint would cause it to do it all the time. Take a look at the joints, if you see rust coming out where the cap goes on (like rust color coming from the rubber seal) then the joint IS bad. Whther it is your problem is another matter.

-----------------------------------------------------------
Good idea, Jim, I had never thought about that, as any and all of the u-joints that have ever had to replace have been from wear. Never had one bind. Is a binding u-joint a common problem amongst TR's?

 

[madhat]

I was thinking it might be the lock-up solenoid(the jerks jsut seemed to harsh in comparison to when it normally locks up)....there is no way to visually/physically inspect it to see if that is the culprit is there? Thanks for the help on possibilities and for some info on U's. I am going ot try that as soon as I can...got to get the part here first...any suggestions as to vendor I should contact?

 

[2QUIK6]

If the lock-up is not unlocking properly you can test that by getting on the highway get going a steady speed, say 55-60mph, then take your left foot and slightly depress the brake while the other foot remains constant on the gas....when hitting the brake slightly, the rpms should go up a few hundred rpms and the go back down as soon as you let up on the brake....all the time keeping steady with the gas pedal.
Also make sure you have brake lights...could be the brake switch too not signaling the lockup solenoid to disengage.

 

[madhat]

lock-up solenoid working fine...I pulled off my southern engineered cold air kit today because I was sick of messing w/ it....and now the car doesnt seem to be doing it anymore!?!?!?! Maybe the dryer ducting was messing up the MAF? Maybe the MAT being down w/ the filter was a bad location? who knows....if I notice the jerking anymore, I'll be back!

Thanks,
Wesley

2Quik,
Where's the 69 TA? Come on, complete the collection(like the guy featured in Hemmings Muscle)

 

[2QUIK6]

Originally posted by madhat
lock-up solenoid working fine...I pulled off my southern engineered cold air kit today because I was sick of messing w/ it....and now the car doesnt seem to be doing it anymore!?!?!?! Maybe the dryer ducting was messing up the MAF? Maybe the MAT being down w/ the filter was a bad location? who knows....if I notice the jerking anymore, I'll be back!

Thanks,
Wesley

2Quik,
Where's the 69 TA? Come on, complete the collection(like the guy featured in Hemmings Muscle)

That's weird that that would fix it, maybe it made the air too turbulent or something.

As much as I'd like too get a 1st gen, time and space says I can't I'm busy enough trying to keep the ones I got going, seems like I'm buying a battery every other month and changing oil everyweekend. Not a weekend goes by that I don't have to do something on a vehicle, beside the garage has no more room and the city says I can't add on anymore until they provide me sewer service Several folks have been trying to talk me into getting a '69 though. Summer is coming so the cars have to take a back seat to skiing and hanging on the lake now...

 

[madhat]

cool, thanks for the help....I wish I could have a multi-car garage...I have a single that barely fits my GN!

 

[madhat]

It has started it agian...I think it is the MAF....it has started dying at intersections again....just like a year ago(but it hasnt started flashing codes yet)...I forget what should I see on turbolink for a good MAF? what is the trick to see if they are bad?(gnttype.org still down)....too bad this time I prob wont find a good working AC Delco unit for $50....

 

[2QUIK6]

You should see about 4-5 gpms at idle. I've never had one go bad, but you can try the "tap" test. Do a search to find what the results mean since I've never had to do it, I can't remember. I think if it stumbles when you tap it it may be bad.

 

[madhat]

if this is it, this will be my second! My first I think was caused by a place that powerwashed my engine w/o covering the MAF(I've heard that stock ones dont take well to baths)