Well after my car sitting int he garage for 4 months and finally getting my new headers and Dp installed I went for a drive. Car ran fine until after about 15 min of driving it stalled and kind of jerked real hard then I got a code 42. Ignition ESC malfunction. Well last time I got this it was the module and so I put this new "Ac Delco" one back on it. About 300 mi ago. So I take it off and have it ck'd out "Oreilys tester" and it passed all tests. So I went to this site for the troubleshooting routine Vortex Turbo Buick Performance Did not really get far with that as I am not a electrical wiring enabled kinda guy and it seems there is no real way to identify the connectors in the ECM plugs on that site. Anyone have any ideas? I have ck'd all my grounds. Battery/ground under turbo/ relocated pass side grounds to stud with braided kit and then grounded to firewall/. Car ran fine built boost and everything till code was throne and then ran crumby.. I am about to the point where I want to drop it off to someone and say here fix it.. But I like saving money and doing my own tinkering but working 90 hrs a week theres no more time!! Oh yea rarely over the past 2 yrs maybe 3 times I have cranked the car up and it just went dead but started right back up!
Car stalled code 42!
- Thread starter RUQWKNF27
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Borrow one from a local Buick member
If you lived here I'd let you unbolt mine and try it.
Red RegalT is selling Delco units for 125 dollars he says the only way to test modules is a drive test, he does check them with a Casper tester but actually runs them from idle to wot as he says it is the only way to test a module . Give him a buzz as he might beable to help.
Hope it's an easy cheap fix.
If you lived here I'd let you unbolt mine and try it.
Red RegalT is selling Delco units for 125 dollars he says the only way to test modules is a drive test, he does check them with a Casper tester but actually runs them from idle to wot as he says it is the only way to test a module . Give him a buzz as he might beable to help.
Hope it's an easy cheap fix.
I've been dealing with this same problem for over two years now. strangely, it also appeared after the new headers were installed. don't know if that's related to the problem or not.
I've swapped coils, modules, chips, and mafs. Checked grounds and connections. Still not fixed.
subscribing to this thread.
I've swapped coils, modules, chips, and mafs. Checked grounds and connections. Still not fixed.
subscribing to this thread.
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
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I had a code 42 also when I first got my car. I'll search tomarow for you the post I done explaining exactly what it was and how to test to see if thats the problem. Look for a reply here tomarow..
Scot W.
TURBOELKY
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I also have had that code, all I remember is changing all the electrical components till it was gone. does'nt really help you much, but I changed the wires, coil and icm, grounded the icm better, and double checked all grounding. It was gone within 2 weeks of pulling my hair out
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
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Well I just realized that our posts only go back one year or so and the rest are deleted. so now I have to go down stairs and look at the car it's self and figure it out. All it basicly is, is a wire coming from the wire harness that goes to your coil pack and runs to your ECM. I just spliced in a jumper wire to test it and WALA! It fixed it. So now i'll go down stairs and see what those exact wires are... I'll be back soon..
scot w.
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Okay are you ready? Your going to either test the continuity of this wire or just "T" splice a new wire real long from the coil-pack to the ECM!
the plug in harness at the coil-pack you will see a white wire on the far right (closest to firewall "B4"). You'll need to go from there to the (B4) wire at the ECM. When looking at the ECM on one side you'll see 3 green wires in a row with different color tracers and a Black wire and a white wire behind those green wires, That white wire is the one that you need.
I used 2 meters to test the continuity of that wire and it was dead!
I then used a long wire and "T" spliced it at the coil-pack ran it around the windshield and into the car temporarily and then "T" spliced the white wire at the ECM and WALA! So, seeing that was it I then ran the wire through the fire wall and soldered the connections and used shrink tubbing buttoned it all back up.. It ran perfect and I NEVER seen a code 42 in 3yrs.
If you have any problems give me a call. (865)680-4008
Scot w.
the plug in harness at the coil-pack you will see a white wire on the far right (closest to firewall "B4"). You'll need to go from there to the (B4) wire at the ECM. When looking at the ECM on one side you'll see 3 green wires in a row with different color tracers and a Black wire and a white wire behind those green wires, That white wire is the one that you need.
I used 2 meters to test the continuity of that wire and it was dead!
I then used a long wire and "T" spliced it at the coil-pack ran it around the windshield and into the car temporarily and then "T" spliced the white wire at the ECM and WALA! So, seeing that was it I then ran the wire through the fire wall and soldered the connections and used shrink tubbing buttoned it all back up.. It ran perfect and I NEVER seen a code 42 in 3yrs.
If you have any problems give me a call. (865)680-4008
Scot w.
good info! thanks for posting that. I'll give it a try also.
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The posts are here, just need to use the search feature with user name
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge.../153393-help-code-42-a.html?highlight=code+42
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Just use your ohm meter, OL should show up for open loop as in the wire is cut and there is no path of current,....
if it is closed loop then you will recieve a value or the meter will beep.
Take a piece of wire to extend one of your meter leads.
Have the 10 foot extention wire at " X " say the coil pack harness specific wire?
Bring the other end into the car near the computer.
Unplug the computer and seek the wire that you tapped into.
All you need to do, is take one lead of the 10 foot wire to the existing factory wire with the meter "inline" and see if you have continuity. "BEEP"
If the wire is broken and shows OL, check the other wires, maybe you just picked the wrong one..
All you are doing is completing a circle, the wire from the coil pack harness, to the meter and back. Very simple if you dont try and complicate it.
BW
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
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